2001 explorer sport theft light not blinking | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2001 explorer sport theft light not blinking

drh001

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October 4, 2014
Messages
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City, State
montreal
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 explorer sport
Hello everyone. I have a 2001 explorer sport (2 door). Last week while driving, it just cut out. no crank. Had it towed home. Assumed it was the starter. Ran a hot line to starter, cranked fine, but did not start. fuel pump primes, do not have ignition. Then I noticed that the theft light on the dash does not light up or flash when key is on or off. Leads me to believe I have a PATS problem. put a reader on it to pull codes, no communications error on reader. Trying to figure out if it is a RAP or ECM problem or bad wiring somewhere. Anybody have any ideas. can't find wiring information for these systems anywhere. Any help would be appreciated.
 



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Welcome to the forum. Check the key you were using, is the little chip still in the end of the black part of the key where you would hook the key on a key ring?. If you have a second key try it & see if it starts. Check out this link on identifying a PATS system problem.




 






Thanks Tom 65. Had already found those links. cigarette lighter/data port fuse was blown, changed it, now have no communication on data port. have bad feeling something is fried. not sure if it RAP module or ECM. will keep looking.
 






Electrical diagram for the PassiveAntiTheftSystem\PATS transceiver on my 2001 ExplorerSportTrac;
not sure it's the same on your 2001 ExplorerSport?
Fuse19 is in the InteriorFuseBox on the left end of the dash;
Fuse19 also powers the PCMPowerDiode+Relay & the IgnitionCoil+NoiseSuppressorCap, not shown in this diagram.
View attachment 323854
Thanks a lot. That is exactly what I was searching for. Now starting to wonder if the LED burns out, if it kills the whole system. Got some work to do. Once again , thanks
 






Thank @J_C
Wiring diagrams
 






Thank @J_C
Wiring diagrams
Thanks a lot. This is like the library of congress. Will put these to good use. Have a great day.
 






Hello everyone. I have a 2001 explorer sport (2 door). Last week while driving, it just cut out. no crank. Had it towed home. Assumed it was the starter. Ran a hot line to starter, cranked fine, but did not start. fuel pump primes, do not have ignition. Then I noticed that the theft light on the dash does not light up or flash when key is on or off. Leads me to believe I have a PATS problem. put a reader on it to pull codes, no communications error on reader. Trying to figure out if it is a RAP or ECM problem or bad wiring somewhere. Anybody have any ideas. can't find wiring information for these systems anywhere. Any help would be appreciated.
Try putting the key in the run position make sure the door/doors are all closed. if you have a helper get them to sit inside or just leave the window open, reach into the vehicle and turn the key to the/run position. go under the hood and disconnect the negative terminal only for 10 seconds. hook the battery terminal up and it should reset the system and start. ( make sure to check the inertia switch on passenger side floor towards the firewall, CHECK IT FIRST.
 






Try putting the key in the run position make sure the door/doors are all closed. if you have a helper get them to sit inside or just leave the window open, reach into the vehicle and turn the key to the/run position. go under the hood and disconnect the negative terminal only for 10 seconds. hook the battery terminal up and it should reset the system and start. ( make sure to check the inertia switch on passenger side floor towards the firewall, CHECK IT FIRST.
First, thank you for your reply. I am wondering where you got this procedure. I am a little leery about shocking the system with the ignition on, but maybe that is what it takes. Have you tried this? Have a good day.
 






Does your third brake light still work? The alarm circuit runs through it.
 






First, thank you for your reply. I am wondering where you got this procedure. I am a little leery about shocking the system with the ignition on, but maybe that is what it takes. Have you tried this? Have a good day.
100% I did this.... What happened to me was I disconnected my battery when the key was not in the truck, and it triggered the security ... Just turn off any accessories such as radio, fan, charger etc....
 






this will reset the system and allow you to start it.
 






Does your third brake light still work? The alarm circuit runs through it.
Thanks for your reply. Yes the third brake light works
 






Thanks, I'll give it a shot.
 






I am working through this exact scenario in my 02 ST 4.0.

I have confirmed my PCM is good and will communicate when swapped in another vehicle.

I do not think it’s the ignition immobilizer or the PATs. The theft never changes from its slow flash, regardless of key position or if it’s in at all. If it were either of those, the theft would flash quickly if there’s an issue or disappear completely if there’s isn’t one and a good key is in.

Do you have any updates on this?
 






I am working through this exact scenario in my 02 ST 4.0.

I have confirmed my PCM is good and will communicate when swapped in another vehicle.

I do not think it’s the ignition immobilizer or the PATs. The theft never changes from its slow flash, regardless of key position or if it’s in at all. If it were either of those, the theft would flash quickly if there’s an issue or disappear completely if there’s isn’t one and a good key is in.

Do you have any updates on this?
Do you have fuel pressure?
 












iirc (and idk very well) doesnt pats just disable fuel pump? does nt that mean this is an un pats related issue, such as starter, relays, etc?
 






iirc (and idk very well) doesnt pats just disable fuel pump? does nt that mean this is an un pats related issue, such as starter, relays, etc?
I’m not completely sure. If the PATS system has an issue, the PCM would recognize that and give the fast flashing theft light. Mine keeps the same slow flash, indicating that the PCM isn’t processing at all whether or not a key is good or bad.
 



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I think you just have a typical no start issue, nothing to do with PATS. I’d start with looking for 12v on the starter with the key in start.
 






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