2001 Ford Explorer Sport SUV differential or axle problems? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2001 Ford Explorer Sport SUV differential or axle problems?

newtofords

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May 13, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Central Pa
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 Explorer Sport
I had my mechanic change the gear oil and put in a gasket in the rear differential because it was leaking. He also topped off the oil in the front one. I got the vehicle back and drove it about 4 or 5 days when it started making a loud metal grinding or gear noise coming from the rear. I took it back to the mechanic and he had it for a few days. He said he was not sure but he thought it was the axle. He said it might need a new rear-end but he did not think the vehicle was worth spending a lot of money on because of it rusting so bad. I agreed.
I had no sounds or problems with the rear-end previously to taking to this mechanic.
The only thing that I have had an issue with previous to this rear end problem is the rear spring on the drivers side has flattened out and caused the vehicle to lean lower on that side. (at least that is what the mechanic said it was) So when I am on a bumpy road it hits hard, like it needs shocks. It also has been slowly rusting away. Running boards are loose and I had some patching done on the divers side. There are holes that need patched for inspection underneath on the passenger side.
The Ford has about 114000 miles on it. Which really is not very many miles. The engine is great, never leaves me sit! I have had it for about 7 years and have driven it on regular roads with no off-roading.
I am wondering if it is possible that something could have happened when he changed the gear oil? I would appreciate any information someone has.
 



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If he just popped the cover and drained the oil, which is a fairly easy deal, not too much could have gone wrong. How many miles did you put on it since it was changed? Is it possible he forgot to fill it?
 






He said that he did fill it and charged me for the oil....maybe he did forget and filled it when I went back???
I drove 25 or 30 miles before it started making grinding/gear noise after he changed it.
Not sure what to do next besides let someone else look at it and see what they say.
Thank you for you answer!
 






I'm not sure if you'd get 30 miles out of dry diff or not.
 






Weird. I'd have another shop take a look and see what's what.

Rust - what is rusting? The frame? If so (meaning you hit the frame with a hammer and can make a hole, or some critical points are too rusted up to rely on), then salvage it and move on, asap. If it is body, like along the fender areas, you can manage that. 114k is not a lot of miles if they were "good" miles with the right maintenance.
 






Well, I took the 2001 Ford Explorer to a specialist.Their only business is transmissions and other drive line issues. He said it is the differential bearings and maybe more. Cost 800.00. if just the bearings but he won't know for sure till he gets in the differential. He also said that all my body mounts need replaced for inspection. He does not do inspections at his garage. He told me that Ford Explorers have aluminum differentials just like the Ford Mustangs. And this is what happens to them. The gears go.
The 'back yard' mechanic that changed the gear oil originally said the vehicle must lean because it has a flattened spring! It leans because of these body mounts not a spring! So I question the 'back yard' mechanics ability when he changed the gear oil and gasket differential in the first place.
I really trust this guy at the Transmission garage because he has been in business in our city for over 25 yrs. and he looked at it for nothing. So he thinks I could fix it and maybe get a year or so out of it and then have to fix all the body rust. (NO rusted frame!) Should have went to him in the first place!!!
So, I put it up for sale. I just can't put the money into it and not have a vehicle while it is being fixed, just very inconvenient. And who knows what else it will cost for the other stuff. I ended up buying a 2007 Chevy Van from a elderly lady because the price was right and it has low mileage. Sorry Ford lovers. I can't be fussy! Had a Dodge van and a Plymouth van in the past both junk! So we will see about the Chevy van integrity!
The Ford Explorer is inspected till Nov. The engine is good and transmission among all the other part replacements I have done to it. I will miss this vehicle, it has been very dependable SUV for the last 7 years. )-:
 






Never heard of a rear end dying suddenly after a fluid change, unless filled with water. Who knows though.The explorer rears are pretty heavy duty, Jeep guys take them from the J/Y and abuse them offroad. The guy who said they are aluminum is FULL OF S*. Mark 8s had AL rear ends, the Tbirds had Iron. And those were independent suspension.

Maybe the Explorers >2001 with independent suspension, not sure. Or live rear ends are heavy American Iron. This is why I hate shops and do my own work. I was screwed in the past and learned.

Maybe he forgot the limited slip additive? That would make it sound pretty nasty. What is your AX code on the door sticker?

The 01s have issues with the body mounts, so it probably isn't worth to pursue. Springs do sag, that is another story.
 






Is 800 reasonable for the bearings? You could get a shop to swap in a whole used axle for much less.
 






Cant belive the first mech somehow messed up a simple drain and fill, bet he forgot to add the FM,
I just recently changed my rear end Pinion Seal with a new flange and a new G2 axle Cover, used 75w140 and Ford Racing Friction Modifier.

As for the sag, my 03 had it bad, i just bought the Monroe Self adjusting Shocks and made it sit even,
Can even try the Warrior 153 shackles

Ccm
 






Lack of friction modifier won't ruin the gears or bearings, it'll just accelerate wear on the clutches and make it chattery on pavement.
 






Thank you for all the information! I wish I could do the up keep on my vehicles. Should have learned when I was younger and of course you need all the tools too. I am a single lady and can't imagine crawling under my car in the drive way at my age! I do everything else myself but I will save my car for the mechanics! It would save me tons of money though!
My son was searching yesterday for the rear-end on line and said the same as MBrooks. "Is 800.00 reasonable?" My son said he found a new one for about 400.00 he would have to do the work himself. Then of course the body mounts! Then the rust. The running boards should be taken off (I was told) to keep the part they are connected to from getting worse. So I think I will save my sons energy for my new van! He can fix most of his vehicles himself, when he has time.

Not sure what the AX code is on the door but I will look and maybe can figure it out. What is the purpose to know this number 96eb96 ?
 






Where I live around $300 is the going price for a used rear differential. Sometimes $50 less sometimes $50 more.

The thing with used parts is that it's a gamble. It'll probably be fine, but you just never no. All things considered I would take the gamble.

It is pretty suspicious that immediately after chaining the gear oil you started having a problem, but the only thing that your "mechanic" could have done to cause the failure would have been to not refill the diff. You could never prove it though.
 






!
My son was searching yesterday for the rear-end on line and said the same as MBrooks. "Is 800.00 reasonable?" My son said he found a new one for about 400.00 he would have to do the work himself. Then of course the body mounts! Then the rust. The running boards should be taken off (I was told) to keep the part they are connected to from getting worse. So I think I will save my sons energy for my new van! He can fix most of his vehicles himself, when he has time.

Not sure what the AX code is on the door but I will look and maybe can figure it out. What is the purpose to know this number 96eb96 ?


AX code will determine if you have a limited slip or not and need the additive. I've heard some pretty bad noises without the additive, but mostly when you turn, but grinding could be bearings.

He should have used just under 3 bottles to fill it. Like Koda said you could never prove anything. He could have used 1, that would do it in :(
 






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