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2001 XLT D44-SAS

Ok, I'm going to start this thread since I'm hoping to be done with this by the end of September.

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Ok, those were the pretty pics...then I cracked the cover off the pumpkin-

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The thing had a ton of water inside...no gear oil came out, only water...

Now the questions for all you axle Gurus...

I can rebuild this no problem right?

Are the axle tubes sealed from the pumpkin, or did the water travel down the tubes?

I'd appreciate any opinions on this cause when the water came pouring out I got disgusted and put the cover back on...I'll have at it again tomorrow and start stripping it down.

From what can be seen- any ideas on what would have to be changed right off the bat?

Or am I looking at a total rebuild?

I want to swap out the knuckles and spindles for 5-on-5.5, they're hard to get here...any body know anyplace in Jersey or PA that I could contact and secure some F150 knuckles and spindles?

Opinions would be greatly appreciated!!

Particularly since I'm hoping to pick up the springs this weekend. :D
 



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ZachMan

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Sounds good man!

After reading all this my main concerns are/were:

1. Steering, which I see your going hysteer with the flat top knuckles which will make a huge differeance. So Very good choice on doing this.

2. Welds, the welds still look scary, but you have already had alot of talk on that. So I may just suggest drving over to a shop or a welder and getting them to look all the welds over and let them do whatever is needed for them to think its "safe". I was thinking it would be the easiest way at this point.

3. The height, besides forgetting there is a 3" BL it still seems high. Just be very careful man, please. One of my good friends flipped his XJ (on the hwy) not long agoand he was only 6" over stock and on 37s.

Anyways just some opinions from me a guy thats kinda around these type rigs alot lol.
 



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cdsl227

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ZachMan said:
Sounds good man!

After reading all this my main concerns are/were:

1. Steering, which I see your going hysteer with the flat top knuckles which will make a huge differeance. So Very good choice on doing this.

2. Welds, the welds still look scary, but you have already had alot of talk on that. So I may just suggest drving over to a shop or a welder and getting them to look all the welds over and let them do whatever is needed for them to think its "safe". I was thinking it would be the easiest way at this point.

3. The height, besides forgetting there is a 3" BL it still seems high. Just be very careful man, please. One of my good friends flipped his XJ (on the hwy) not long agoand he was only 6" over stock and on 37s.

Anyways just some opinions from me a guy thats kinda around these type rigs alot lol.

Thanks for the thoughts...they are indeed taken to heart. I gotta drive this thing every day and I'm kinda liking life. :p

Still waiting for the knuckles and all, they should be here this week.

I went by the place where I was buying all my steel, they wanted to see what I was doing with the stuff. I told him how everybody was commenting/laughing at my welds. He looked at it and said they're fine. He said the best welds aren't always the pretty ones. The only thing that matters when you weld is penetration and the fusing of the base metals. Everything after that is gravy.

I'm thinking of pulling the body lift, but I have to admit this thing is pretty damn stable running around in the street, I'm very surprised at how well it rides.

I've been beating it up on some pretty bad roads and it holds up damn nice. My only complaint is that I've got dual shocks front and rear set on 7, my kidneys have moved about a 1/2" from all the bouncing.

I have yet to lock down the buggy leafs.

Here's some pics of the shock mounts and side-by-side with my girls stock 93'

Perspective:

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The shock mounts in the rear are temporary until the T-Case comes and I reposition the axle to the output yoke. Then I'll beef them up and flesh them in a little. They've been painted over since these pics.

This thing makes a Hummer look small. :eek:
 






bmxking5

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Your X is just a little bit taller than the stock 1st gen. ;) I couldn't imagine driving something that big through NY. Looks great :thumbsup:
 






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ZachMan said:
One of my good friends flipped his XJ (on the hwy) not long agoand he was only 6" over stock and on 37s.

How can 6" fit 37's? The 6" Skyjacker RR is made for 33's, and 35's with major trimming.
 






cdsl227

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bmxking5 said:
Your X is just a little bit taller than the stock 1st gen. ;) I couldn't imagine driving something that big through NY. Looks great :thumbsup:

Believe me, the cabbies definitely take notice. :D
 






Trckmagik

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I thought those Ranchos were only supposed to be mounted with the dial down? I believe they are upside down which could cause your kidney problem.

Great work!
 






NOTAJP

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Here's what Rancho says:
9000 series are valved softer to run in a dual setup
9100 series are valved firmer to run as a single shock.
All 9x series are designed to run with the shock body down

However, guys(and myself) have ran them upside down for years without problems.

My rear shocks are single 9100 series ranchos with the body down and I run them at setting 2.

My front 9000 are ran upside down and I run them on setting 6 on the street. My tires are also set at 26psi (8ply 35x12.50R17).

Turning your shocks down will mend your kidneys. Running a swaybar up front should cure your woes of body roll and worrying about the buggy springs as well.
 






cdsl227

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:D :D :D

I coulda swore I read somewhere dial up!

:p :p :p

Duh!!

Besides it's easier to get at dial up...but I guess I'll try them dial down. I hope I don't have to modify the front to flip'em. Maybe I just saw them mounted that way a few times and went for it...I can't even remember. :confused:

Thanks for the info! My kidneys appreciate it! As do I.
 






cdsl227

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NOTAJP said:
Running a swaybar up front should cure your woes of body roll and worrying about the buggy springs as well.

I kept the stock swaybar, I was going to try and work that in once I swap out the knuckles and get the steering straight. It corners pretty nicely, but I do feel a little lean from the buggy leafs and I can see a little movement in the axle, but then I suppose they'll all give a little turning big tires.
 






cdsl227

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Washed and waxed, just a quicky:

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I think that's a decent approach angle...

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My rolling Christmas tree:

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fury

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good job on you sas. I was wondering if u had complete pics of the way u mounted the rear shocks.
thanks
 












V8BoatBuilder

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Truly awesome!!! I'd love to see it in person
 






NOTAJP

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Dude, looks sweet!
 






boominXplorer

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i love how the 2 explorers dwarf your truck
 






JoshC

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Turned out great man, glad to see that you've got her done. It's gotta be a great feeling to have this thing on the road after all your hard work!
 






cdsl227

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Thanks, I definitely couldn't have done it without everyones help- everybody was great with answering questions and providing pics to use as a guide.

She's still not complete, but it drives nice (bumpsteer aside), I'm going to flip the front shocks when I put on the Hi-Steer knuckles (they're out for delivery :D ), I'll flip the rear shocks when the T-Case gets here and I cut the mounts so I can reposition the pinion. I'll post pics of the final shock mounts when I get the axle to it's permanent position. Whats on the axle now are temporary fiending to drive it mounts. :p

I still have to install all the stuff for air to the ARB up front, I've got onboard air so that's a slam-dunk. I'm ordering gears and ARB locker for the rear today.

Now it's time for some real backup lights! :confused:

I'll post some final pics when she's near done and I'm putting on the final paint.
 






Kirby N.

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That looks cool. I like the shocks at an angle. I was just going to mention that I don't think Rancho's RS 9000s are suppossed to be mounted upside down (Ranchos coil overs are a different story, however). I ruined a set of Duff shocks by mounting them upside down. I would turn those shocks over asap. Looks like you spent alot of time on it and did it right. I usually get to the point where I am sick of spending time on it and I don't care if it is right. Lets see some wheeling pics!
 






cdsl227

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stretch said:
I have a few questions about the Atlas. Does it bolt straight to the 4R70W without an adapter? Do you have to buy the Explorer shift kit or does it come with one that will work? What changes to the drive shafts need to be made (I expect either lengthening or shortening, but what about the yokes and/or u-joints)? I would appreciate any info you can provide because I'm in the market for one since my x-fer case is dying anyway. I know I just need to call them but I'm just gathering as much info as I can. I've said it before and I'll say it again - awsome work, can't wait to see how it really performs once it's finished.

I'll give you some definite answers on the T-Case when I get it, but I know there are a few people here that pretty much just dropped it in...so it can't be too bad to mate it up.
 



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stretch

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cdsl227 said:
I'll give you some definite answers on the T-Case when I get it, but I know there are a few people here that pretty much just dropped it in...so it can't be too bad to mate it up.
Much appreciated. :thumbsup:
 






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