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2001 XLT D44-SAS

Here are the pics of seal area after sanding as well as a few others.

shaftseal001.jpg


shaftseal002.jpg


The new studs from JBG.

newstuds.jpg


Where I'm at:

axleend001.jpg

axleend002.jpg


That's it until the new Warn Hubs come in.
 



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Lookin good. I think your axles will be just fine. Was there something I was supposed to do for you?
 






Outline measuring for spring hanger placement so I have a reference point. While you're at it if you could outline measuring for shocks that'd be appreciated.

Thanks Much!!!
 






Oh yeah! Dude, I'm so embarassed that I forgot. It's been crazy around here. I'll get that all emailed to you very shortly. Maybe I can find a 2001 Exploder around here that someone would let me take a tape measure to (without getting arrested for trasspassing:D).
 






Cool, I was just wondering where everybody (that's done leaf) is getting their reference point from.

I have no clue where these springs are going to settle at, but I'm assuming I'll have to get a center point on the main leaf and go from there.

I'm starting to decide how I'm going to deal with the steering since there's no place up here to get fabricated stuff.

Guess I'll start with the tie rod and go from there. I should have the axle complete wih the perches welded on by the end of this coming week.

I do have one question on the axle shafts...inside the hub is there a C-clip or anything to hold the axle out?

When I stripped the outers down there was nothing on the axle that I have and I kept everything whether it was in little pieces or whole.

What I'm driving at is what keeps the axle from riding back into the pumpkin...I've read about clips (at the outer ends of the outer shaft), but there were none there when I took it apart.

For the shocks- do I have to flex it out to measure? I'm sure that would give me the most accurate measurement, but is that the only way. I have no access to a forklift or any type of ramp to flex it.

The other thing I have to figure out is how to measure for driveshafts...

Thanks!
 






Flexing is your best option for the fitting of the shocks. Sure you can put something you think may be right on there, but you might end up pulling the shock in half. I've done that once. Now i've got limiting straps.

As for the drive shafts. Not sure where you plan on getting them from, but Tom Woods is the best, or so i hear. That's where i got my front one from.

You're going to have to have an adapter to mate up to the stock Tcase flange. I've got one in my garage that i told Yomie i'd sell him, but if he doesn't need it, you may. Tom sells them for 100 bucks. But you could call them and tell them your situation and they would tell you what to measure. Really nice folks over there.
 






The other thing I have to figure out is how to measure for driveshafts...

Hey, sorry if I don't belong in this thread but I've kind of been following it just learning from different solid axle projects. I was just wondering if a good way to measure for the front driveshaft would be to find about where your full droop is on the driver’s side then measure from the T-case to the diff. I don't know how much you want to have of the slip yoke in the drive shaft at all times but make it a little bit longer than that when you have it in full droop. The axle will still go beyond what you measure for full droop in certain situations so making the slip yoke longer will make it less likely to just fall out of the drive shaft. Make sure its made longer so it goes farther into the drive shaft and not just longer toward the T-case. To measure for the length toward the T-case I guess you drop the frame all the way down to the bump stops without the springs in of course and make sure the drive shaft will be short enough so it doesn't smash itself.
Make sure you get someone else’s opinion because these are just the ideas that came to my head. I have no experience in this kind of thing except from watching people on the trail, doing a little maintenance on my own car, and reading on the Internet. Sorry it was so long:) .
 






When I get a little closer to that point I'll give them a call...what's their turn around time for getting a drive shaft out?

I'm going to be buying an Atlas II, so I'll have to purchase the shifter kit and all when the time comes...I figure to get the flange that'll make connecting to the Waggy pinion yoke easiest. I don't know if the yokes are standard or what...

Guess I'll have to figure out a way to flex it. This should be interesting...i'll have to scout the neighborhood and see if I spot any trailer docks that I can use.
 






Originally posted by biggs85
Hey, sorry if I don't belong in this thread.

Everybody that's got a good idea belongs in this thread! :D :D

And I've just added yours to the list. ;)
 






The driveshaft is really easy to measure. Just measure from yoke to yoke as the truck sits level on normal ground. This will be your static length. This is what Tom Wood's will want. I have talked to him several times, thinking of what I wanted. I have a shop in Boise who has done several custom 4x4s around the Boise area and knew what he was doing. Was one of the first after asking what I building, not saying, "You can't do that with an Explorer!" Anyway, the driveshaft will be the LAST thing you will need to install. After getting your Atlas II installed, give them a call and he can walk you through exactly what he needs to know. Their turn around is usually only a day or two. You will have an idea after the truck is on the ground how much flex you will have and tell whomever is building the driveshaft and they can compensate for it. I'm having a long travel spline built for the front of mine as we speek.

Try to keep all of the yokes the same so your trail spare is just one u-joint. Unless you are planning on running a big V8 with HP and torque, I would stick with the standard 1310 U-joints. I have had great luck with them and that will keep a fuse in your system. A U-joint is a lot easier to replace then twisting a driveshaft, or broken axle, or...
 






WHy not flex it with a tire jack or high lift? Sure it's nto as galmourous as a 23 degree ramp, forklift, or rock, but it should accomplish the same task.
 






I thought about that, but I was kinda wondering if I'd get the lift I needed to go all the way.

I guess a cinder block under a floor jack would do it...but I'm assuming I have to stuff a tire to measure for compression so I'm not too sure about putting a floor jack under the axle to push up because the amount the axle will twist going up will almost defninitely cause the jack to shift or pop out.

Definitely one option.
 






Anybody got any thoughts on if there's a snap ring clip to retain the axle so it doesn't ride back into the carrier??

I can't remember there being any there when I stripped the "in tact" outers and I kept all parts.

I read a few build ups and one or two of them refer to this magical clip that i guess did a Houdini on me.
 






It's been a year since I last built a D44. There should be a groove at the end of the splines of your outer axle shafts. There is where the retaining C clip sits along with a splined washer that sits against the spindle. Do you have a Chilton's Repair Manual? It should show the exploded (no pun intended) view of the front hub assembly. My biggest pain was the hub retaining clip. My father-in-law's D44 under his BII didn't have the clips either when I tore it down either. That's a cheap part from Ford to pick up.

Do you have a picture of the axle outers?
 






Yes, there's a groove cut into the outer shaft, but there were no clips there when I tore it down.

Then I was reading all these rebuilds and kept seeing references to the clip so I figured I was supposed to have clips and they just weren't there.

I wonder if the new Warn Premium Hubs come with the clip...

If not there's another part I'll end up having to order.

Everytime I go into Ford they just tell me- "Oh I can't look up a 78, the computer stops at 80". Damn PITA!
 






Sorry, the Warn hub kit does not come with the C-clips.
 






That's ok, I'm getting used to the grief with this...but I'm still at it!

I just saw the picture of Yomies with him standing next to it- and DAMN!! That looks sweet- that's what everybody has to do get a picture standing next to them so you can get the perspective of just how huge they are!
 






Yomie is a nice clean 2nd Gen. I can't wait to see yours. :bounce: I might take a pic if ever it would warm up enough to paint!
 






I painted my hood just before the real cold set in up here...I still haven't put clear coat on it yet.
 



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WooHooo!!

I just got the Warn Premium Hubs today and- they have the snap-ring retainer for the axle!

I was reading the literature that comes in the box and it says some 77 1/2 through 79 Fords don't use the retaining clip and that not having it doesn't affect performance. To be honest I can't imagine they'd design an axle that would use the bare axle tube to keep the shaft from riding into the carrier...but then I'm not an engineer.

warn-hubs.jpg
 






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