2002 Explorer 4.6L Dying at Idle

[rrgone]

My 2002 Eddie Bauer Exp (77k mi) just started to do the same (stall at idle either after starting, or coming to a stop). I can double foot drive it, put it in N approaching stops, etc. I took it to my Ford Dealer and they are saying it is my Torque Converter and perhaps bad ignition coil. I can't belive out of the previous posts on this topic that it is anything as serious as a torque converter, particualrly if it dies while in park after starting it. I wanted ot get a recap of those that have had this problem as to what the root cause was. I can't afford a big dealer service bill this month and need to get her back on the road.

Welcome aboard Mike. Do you have the 4.6L engine? If so the first thing I'd check is the vacuum hose elbow mentioned above in the post by DavidS. Here's another thread about it with pics:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217062

The second thing I'd check is the IAC. Lots of threads in here about cleaning it.

It's always helpful to get it checked to see if any trouble codes are stored. Many of the chain auto parts stores will loan you a scanner to do this. Good luck. Let us know what you find out.

 

[easnoddy]

Just an FYI - I had this problem with my gen 2 EXP a few years ago. I took it to ford and they said it was the PCV valve. They said they HAD to do fuel induction service with the fix (which at the time I suspected was BS). Overall cost for their fix...some $600. Had I just replaced the PCV valve on my own...$5-$10. My advice, try a new PCV valve first, if not I'm out of ideas.

I have a gen 3 Mounty now...definitely my last American car. I say...let 'em crash.

 

[SanJose-Mike]

Idel Stall on Eddie Bauer Explorer

Thanks for the great input I ahve received so far on my idle stall problem. As mentioned previously, my local Ford service dealer wanted to service the Torque converter to which I called BS. I looked at the vacuum hose which has been pinpointed as culprit in many of the issues but mine was in good shape, also, I have not had a problem with it in the few weeks since the initial problem occurred. So at this point I am assuming it was a stuck Idle Air Valve something and will address when the problem become chronic again.

 

[blown03]

Hate a bump an old thread, but after some searching this seemed to describe my issue the most. I've had an odd idle problem that has been driving me crazy and has progressively gotten worse recently. Sometimes the truck idles ok, other times just teribble, then sometimes it just dies when coming to a stop? I've swapped the IAC, fuel filter, intake, plugs, etc. All the normal things I could think of, but zero change. After talking to a friend of a friend that works in the svc department at Ford he mentioned the TC lock up issue. Anybody else experienced this, was that the fix? I'm preparing to sell the truck and want it running right but don't want to waste money on it.

 

[RickM]

I looked at the vacuum hose which has been pinpointed as culprit in many of the issues but mine was in good shape,

This would have been my guess as well. I replaced mine 2 years ago with the previously described melted hole.

FWIW, the U-bend/hose is part of a larger assembly. Do you hear anything similar to a vacuum leak under the hood?

 

[blown03]

ttt....

 

[blown03]

??

 

[Tweetyfern]

EGR Sensor

So I've been having similar problems for about 6 months now. At first my engine was just idling rough (it would try to die, but recover itself) and would feel like it was jumping. Then it started to actually do a combination of idling rough and dying.

I've had it at a local (non-Ford) mechanic several times. I've even let him drive it for a week. He couldn't figure it out.

Yesterday, the check engine light FINALLY came on. Up until then, it was just a guessing game he said. Well he is booked right now, so I decided to take my car to Shuck's and put it on their tester. I received 2 codes:

P1400 Differential pressure feedback EGR circuit low input
P0402 Exhaust gas recirculation flow excessive detected

I called my mechanic and told him the codes. He doesn't believe this is the problem because he says that the EGR doesn't kick in when the car is idling.

I've checked a few other sites and I believe this actually could be the problem. The part #EGR1304 offered by Shuck's for $67.99 seems like a pretty cheap fix for something that has driven me absolutely crazy for the last 6 months.

I am going to try to replace it and see how it goes. I'll update you when I figure out if this is the problem or not....

 

[outlaw78]

Same/Similar Problem

I have a 2002 Ford Explorer V8 that has the same type of symptoms. It runs great while you are driving it but at an idle regardless if you are in "D, OD, N, or P" it wants to "stall". It doesn't have a rough idle, just the stalling problem. Its has no time interval at which it happens or severity (sometimes just a light stall and sometimes a heavy stall). Only once so far has it completely died as well. No Codes (autozone or checker said their machine wasn't detecting any anyways) and no check engine light. I replaced the idle air control valve and it still does it. Checked for holes in vacuum lines and couldn't see any with the naked eye. I bought it used from a Ford dealer this last summer and they said everything was done as far as a 'tune-up' (fuel filter, plugs, wires, AF etc. etc...) I noticed it this summer when it would idle but very un-noticeable if you weren't looking for it. Now that is has gotten colder it is much more noticeable and more frequent. As a matter of fact it took my wife almost 10 minutes to get it started when she left work the other day. If anyone has any more info to this topic or know of a solution or more theories in other posts, please let me know. It is really frustrating. Almost like a fuel or ignition problem... Does Ford use a variable rate fuel pump that can change volume or something like that??? Also another note about it. Just a few days ago I was sitting at the grocery store waiting for my wife to come out. I left the vehicle running and all of sudden it started surging. It would drop the RPMs off far enough the battery light would come on and back up above 1000 rpms. It continued to do this till I intervened. I wanted to see if it would come out of it on its own and it wouldn't...

 

[billschaeck]

beating the dead horse, Idle issue

If this helps anyone. I had the same issue about 6 months ago. My problem was the intake manifold was cracked and my idle air controller was bad. I replaced the intake manifold, which costs a fortune, and the vehicle went from stalling to idling extreemely rough, almost un-driveable. Once the idle air controller was replaced the engine was perfect again. The cracked intake manifold was only visable when removed, when looking at the top of the engine, with the plastic shroud removed, you couldn't tell anything was damaged. My Explorer had 70,000 miles and less than 2 years since I purchased it from the dealership.

 

[outlaw78]

But if it was a cracked intake manifold wouldn't it have some drive-ability issues all the time and not just at idle. I don't notice anything while driving it. Just at an idle. What drive-ability problems would show up with a cracked intake manifold do while you drive it? Would I be able to detect a cracked manifold/vacuum leak with carburetor cleaner as the engine would rev up with said product?

 

[jburch412]

I notice no one spoke about the fuel pump. I have trouble starting 2002 xlt 4x4 at times. I cleaned the fuel injectors and gas lines (Jiffy Lube) and got the fuel filter changed by FORD. (90 bucks) before I found you guys. The dealer tells me my puel is going bad and he wants to change 400 buck for a pump and I gues about 400 bucks for labor. (screw him), but I had an honest guy put the scanner on it and it did indicate low fuel line pressure. So I'm taking it as fuel pump need replacing. My problem is after searching the forum I can't find anything about this. I know it's in the tank but how to access it and remove it, I can't find. I did find cheaper replacements on line!

 

[billschaeck]

outlaw

There was not really any drivability issues other than the stalling at idle. I was pretty suprised when I found it cracked, the only idication besides the stalling was the smell of burt coolant which was evaporating on the engine, and leaking from the damaged area.

 

[outlaw78]

Mechanic

Well I am going to try to make an appointment with my mechanic today and see if he can diagnose the problem. We'll go from there and I will post anything I find here. I could go replacing parts and it would probably cost me a lot more without a diagnosis. As far as the intake goes, thank God I bought Ford's ESP coverage which covers the intake manifold. I just hope its something simpler than that. I hoping its just a sensor that controls idle. I failed to mention this earlier but also I only have the problem after it warms up and the computer starts reading/controlling sensors... Also a cracked intake might be the culprit but I don't notice any coolant leaking. I mean I have had it since June 1, 2009 and I have to add coolant from the low line to the middle of the two lines on the coolant tank. Would I notice to have to add more coolant if it was a cracked intake? I've only had to add coolant once and just a small amount it it was a month ago when I added it.

 

[outlaw78]

Soonest I could get it in was Monday. But the funny thing is is it hasn't done it all except for a small hiccup and that's it for the past 2 days.

 

[outlaw78]

Here's the official solution from my mechanic...

Computer needed to be reset to learn new part that I installed. Apparently just taking the battery cable off and leaving a high drain power source on while the battery is disconnected will not erase the "keep-alive" memory. It must be done with the computer reader. Taking the battery cable off clears only the diagnostic codes stored in the computer. I will drive it for the next few days to see if the problem comes back but if I don't re-post anything to this topic consider my problem solved...

 

[outlaw78]

It didn't solve it. It still has stalls and actually died while entering the garage. It developed a new symptom. During the 2-1 shift right at stopping the vehicle the heater fan slows down and the lights go slightly dimmer and you can feel it wanting to stall out. This 5 speed auto trans is capable of locking the torque converter in any gear and any speed they tell me so I am shifting toward that solution. But a question... Could the torque converter lockup engage in Park and cause the engine to stall/die or both?

 

[mdesena]

2002 v8 4.6 stalling

My big v8 was stalling at red lights. Thanks to all the good people on this sight , it turned out to be a hole in a vacum line elbow. Cheap and easy fix. You guys are alright keep sharing...