2002 Mountaineer transfer case.... | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2002 Mountaineer transfer case....

Mussin

Active Member
Joined
February 24, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Lima,Ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
'02 Mountaineer
When it rains it pours... I just installed a new transmission (5r55w) about 3 weeks ago and now the transfer case is out. It has been going for some time now, pushing the front tires on tight turns. I changed the fluid and added some friction modifier when I did the tranny swap and just the other day it started leaking out of the front seal by the front drive shaft.

Could someone tell me what T-case I have and what to expect, I know they are $$$ Maybe I can just replace the seal and deal with the f'd up case for a while as the tranny drained my bank account. How hard are these to rebuild? Anyone know where to get a salvage one for a decent price?


THANKS

Jeremy
 



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do you have the switches on the dash then its a Borg Warner 4411's,
no switches but with AWD Borg Warner 4410 viscous clutch is a common failure. Disconnecting the front drive shaft to test if its it.

I've seen a couple xfr cases in the salvage yards in detroit maybe fleabay?
Remans from the dealer $1100. Also check with Trans shops, i had a heep rebuilt a case for about $650 but these didn't have the viscous clutch which alone is $400 or so.
 






Im almost 100% positive its the t-case, the car is HARD to turn and when you back out turning sharp the car wont move unless you give it throttle.


I did find a VERY low mileage unit for $450 (12,000 mile) 30 day warrenty somewhat local. I am going to check it out sat. Should the front yoke and rear yoke spin the same ratio? Also do you think the gasket between the tranny and case will still be good, the tranny was installed 3-4 weeks ago. What and how much fluid do I need? THANKS

Jeremy
 






My mechanic friend drove my mountaineer tonight and said its either the rear end or transfer case.. How do you tell 100%. Is unhooking the front shaft the only way?

Jeremy
 






Which case do you have? AWD or 4WD?
Switches on the dash or none?
 






It is AWD full time, no switches... I was gonna pull the drive shaft today but it is raining.. The damn thing is leaking where the driveshaft bolts to the coupler.. Leaking right under the bolts.. Do you think it could be the rear end binding. The rear dosent make any noise.

THANKS

Jeremy
 






Well a little update.. I pulled the front shaft and the car turns and drives like a dream, T-case is obviously shot. I drove around today with the front shaft out, will this hurt anything? I will be picking up another transfer case this week but untill then I will leave it in 2 wheel.

Does anyone know anything about the frone drive shaft?? It almost seems like the coupling end was leaking. Is it a sealed unit? Any info would be great!

Jeremy

P.S my driveway is on a little incline and my truck has been parked on it all day with the front shaft out and there is no creep.. Hell me and my friend tried to push the truck when in park and it didnt budge. So is this just a myth or has it happened to someone first hand? Maybe if I lived in San Francisico I would be worried but this is Ohio..
 






sounds like your getting somewhere, Viscous clutch.

Can you get a pic of which end of the driveshaft and leak?

creep maybe urban myth, i've heard it too. Maybe toss a brick in back just in case?
 






The end that bolts to the transfer case is leaking.
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Jeremy
 






Doesn't look bad,imo
maybe the grease inside maybe leaking out, but it looks more like fluid
If there is no play, and it seems smooth when you rotate it, i'd clean it up and watch it.
does it look like the output flange on the xfr case is leaking?
Or whats above it??
 






I did pick up a 12,000 mile unit for $450, put it in over the weekend and the car drives like new. I cant believe how much better it drives and especially turns. Believe it or not it has picked up 3mpg since the swap, must have had ALOT of binding on the entire drive train!

I tightened everything good and the front shaft is no longer leaking as well..


Jeremy
 






I did pick up a 12,000 mile unit for $450, put it in over the weekend and the car drives like new. I cant believe how much better it drives and especially turns. Believe it or not it has picked up 3mpg since the swap, must have had ALOT of binding on the entire drive train!

I tightened everything good and the front shaft is no longer leaking as well..


Jeremy

Sweet!
 






In my uneducated opinion, I don't think the creeping with no driveline is a myth. The symptoms you described sound like a seized viscous coupling. That being seized would stop the creeping. With a normally operating viscous coupling it would allow some slippage and creeping without the front drive line installed.
 






I am having the very same year, model of the Mountaineer and having the very same issue for the last few weeks now.

Does your SUV sounds like a bicycle chain being too tight whenever you slowly taking off at a dead stop or slowing backing up with a slight turn of the steering wheel? How many miles to you have on your Mountaineer? Mine just turned 100K when I heard this binding noise. it also seems like the tires are rubbing or some sort, but it's not.

I had the fluid flushed on the T-Case about 2 weeks ago. The mechanic told me that it required ATF fluid, nothing special. I wish I had the time to make a decision to either used Synthetic fluid instead of just the standard ATF fluid.

How difficult was it to do the T-Case? I was thinking of disconnecting the drive shaft and see if it make the difference or not.

Please let me know where you got your T-Case from and how difficult it was.

Thanks and have a great day!!

Q-man
 






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