2010 V6 2WD 5R55s Transmission Dilemma, need advice | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2010 V6 2WD 5R55s Transmission Dilemma, need advice

FHP89LX

Member
Joined
March 10, 2004
Messages
43
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4
City, State
Sierra Vista, Arizona
Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 Mercury Mountaineer
Hey Guys, I need your input. I'm unemployed but I used my truck for food delivery to make ends meet and pay bills. Now I'm stuck with this issue.

2010 Mountaineer V6 2WD with the 5R55S
161K miles original..
.I'm the original owner

All gears shift great except for 3rd gear.
I went to a transmission shop and they dropped the pan and found that one of my "bands" broke (I saw it with my own eyes) and that's what causing my third gear not to engage normally.
How can I drive the truck?
Well, once I get enough speed, I know when the truck will go into 3rd, I let go of the accelerator for about 4 seconds, then 3rd gear kicks in, and I'm fine.

The shop said they can either rebuilt the transmission for $2,600 OR replace the broken band including labor under $800.00

What can you recommend?
Used transmission?
Replace the broken band?
Buy I rebuilt transmission and have it shipped?
If buying one rebuilt, where do you recommend it?
I need options because I'm stuck, not working, and can't collect unemployment. I live in southern Arizona if that helps at all.

Thanks
 



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You are at what I call a critical juncture. You have a vehicle with 165k miles on it that has a V6 engine known for having its timing chains and guides going out typically between 125k-200k miles. When timing chains and guides go it usually results in installing a remanufactred engine at a cost of $3k-$4k. Even just a guides and chains replacement requires the engine to be removed and costs $2k-$2.5k to have a shop do it. You might want to ask the shop looking at repairing the transmission to give you a ball park estimate on replacing the chains/guides. Then at 165k you will likely have several maintenance items like wheel bearings, radiator etc. to add to the cost of keeping it on the road.

At this point I would say you need to consider how much money you want to spend on it because there could be more big expenses in the near future. Your best decision might be to move on to another vehicle with lower mileage or one that is more reliable. It helps a lot that you are the original owner and know the maintenance history of the vehicle. If you have maintained it very well by doing 3k-5k oil changes, have already repaired a lot of the typical things that go wrong with Explorer as the miles rack up etc. then spending money on the transmission might be a good choice. If you haven't then I would spend $800 to get it road worthy, sell it and then use the proceeds toward buying a lower mileage, more fuel efficient and more reliable vehicle.
 






It’s shifting second to fourth by lifting the accelerator. You will not have third gear with intermediate band broken . Replacement with a used unit would be the most economical in my opinion. Repair will expose a lot of other problems to address when disassembled with that mileage.
Brad
 






Only you know your full situation money wise but I would be thinking about replacing the band and then move to a different vehicle as soon as I could while driving it very easy. Any direction is a gamble but the cheapest one is the smallest gamble.
 






I wish it was that simple. EX-wife and divorce took everything I got, and I mean everything, and I only have my Mountaineer and my clothes. The engine is very smooth, quiet and it still has the original spark plugs, wires, and everything else. Trust me, I would love to sell it but I have no credit and I know I can get more miles out of her. I am thinking about a rebuilt on the tranny. When they pull it down and open it up, I know for sure they will find something else. Better to be safe than sorry I guess. Fully rebuilt will cost me $2,500 out the door.

Hopefully, I can work on my credit to buy a newer car. I don't want sedans, would like a mid-size SUV.
Only you know your full situation money wise but I would be thinking about replacing the band and then move to a different vehicle as soon as I could while driving it very easy. Any direction is a gamble but the cheapest one is the smallest gamble.
 






I wish it was that simple. EX-wife and divorce took everything I got, and I mean everything, and I only have my Mountaineer and my clothes. The engine is very smooth, quiet and it still has the original spark plugs, wires, and everything else. Trust me, I would love to sell it but I have no credit and I know I can get more miles out of her. I am thinking about a rebuilt on the tranny. When they pull it down and open it up, I know for sure they will find something else. Better to be safe than sorry I guess. Fully rebuilt will cost me $2,500 out the door.

Hopefully, I can work on my credit to buy a newer car. I don't want sedans, would like a mid-size SUV.
If its at 161k and you’ve never done plugs and wires than I’m assuming no other proper maintenance was done as well. It’s a ticking time bomb. What happens when you drop $2500+ and then the motor starts rattling? Are you going to be able to drop another $2500 on a motor?

You may not “like” sedans, but in your situation they are probably the most fitting. I can’t imagine trying to make a profit delivering in an Explorer. For under $300 a month you could have a brand new car, get 35mpg, and have a 100k bumper to bumper warranty.
 






To add to what Mbrooks said, you are lucky to get this far on a transmission that probably still had the original fluid in it. Keep in mind that a rebuilt transmission typically only replaces broken parts. A remanufactuered transmission replaces worn and broken parts which makes a big difference in reliability going forward. I will almost guarantee you will be spending more on this vehicle going forward. Especially if you haven't had many repairs up to now. It being 2WD does help by taking out repair of 4WD components. It would help us give you better advice if you can tell us the repair history of the vehicle and mileage you went between oil changes.

In the end it is tour money and your call.
 






Call around to ford salvage yards, find a low mileage transmission, ask the salvage yard if they do repairs as well and see how much they would charge to change it out, ask about warranty on parts, etc..
 






I wish it was that simple. EX-wife and divorce took everything I got, and I mean everything, and I only have my Mountaineer and my clothes. The engine is very smooth, quiet and it still has the original spark plugs, wires, and everything else. Trust me, I would love to sell it but I have no credit and I know I can get more miles out of her. I am thinking about a rebuilt on the tranny. When they pull it down and open it up, I know for sure they will find something else. Better to be safe than sorry I guess. Fully rebuilt will cost me $2,500 out the door.

Hopefully, I can work on my credit to buy a newer car. I don't want sedans, would like a mid-size SUV.
Either way, let us know how it goes and good luck.
 






To add to what Mbrooks said, you are lucky to get this far on a transmission that probably still had the original fluid in it. Keep in mind that a rebuilt transmission typically only replaces broken parts. A remanufactuered transmission replaces worn and broken parts which makes a big difference in reliability going forward. I will almost guarantee you will be spending more on this vehicle going forward. Especially if you haven't had many repairs up to now. It being 2WD does help by taking out repair of 4WD components. It would help us give you better advice if you can tell us the repair history of the vehicle and mileage you went between oil changes.

In the end it is tour money and your call.
Repair history and all my self:
2 wheel hub bearings
front and rear breaks
replaced thermostat housing once
replaced ball joints
replace ABS control module

Everything else is original. The truck shift very smooth in all gears except of course 3rd is not working because a band broke.
The engine is quiet and smooth. Feels like it not even running when you are inside the truck
Regular oil changes always

Miles on this truck is mostly all highway miles.
I found a shop an hour away from me. I will be taking it there on Monday.
 






Repair history and all my self:
2 wheel hub bearings
front and rear breaks
replaced thermostat housing once
replaced ball joints
replace ABS control module

Everything else is original. The truck shift very smooth in all gears except of course 3rd is not working because a band broke.
The engine is quiet and smooth. Feels like it not even running when you are inside the truck
Regular oil changes always

Miles on this truck is mostly all highway miles.
I found a shop an hour away from me. I will be taking it there on Monday.
Since you seem capable of doing repairs yourself it makes keeping it much more financially feasible. From what you said above repairing the transmission might be worth doing. Being the original owner gives you a lot of information about its road worthiness most owners with a high mileage vehicles do not have.
 






Since you seem capable of doing repairs yourself it makes keeping it much more financially feasible. From what you said above repairing the transmission might be worth doing. Being the original owner gives you a lot of information about its road worthiness most owners with a high mileage vehicles do not have.
Off-topic but what spark plugs do you recommend for the V6 4.0L. My year is 2010. It still has the original plugs and wires but I heard these engines have two kinds of spark plugs? I know copper is ok but will wear out uneven or something like that?
 






Off-topic but what spark plugs do you recommend for the V6 4.0L. My year is 2010. It still has the original plugs and wires but I heard these engines have two kinds of spark plugs? I know copper is ok but will wear out uneven or something like that?
The 2006-2008 4th gen V8s had two piece plugs that had a tendency to break leaving the bottom half in the socket. Ford has a replacement plug for them. I don't know if the V6s had two types of plugs. I am not too familiar with the SOHC V6 so hopefully someone here will be able to answer your question.
 






I put Motorcraft SP412 in mine and they work great but I don't drive high miles. If I did, I might consider a double platinum plug.
 






The 2006-2008 4th gen V8s had two piece plugs that had a tendency to break leaving the bottom half in the socket. Ford has a replacement plug for them. I don't know if the V6s had two types of plugs. I am not too familiar with the SOHC V6 so hopefully someone here will be able to answer your question.
Back to the tranny. When the tranny is off it is possible to change the rear chain guide without pulling the engine. I'd be at least looking at it by pulling the valve cover. Actually I would look before spending on the tranny.
 






Back to the tranny. When the tranny is off it is possible to change the rear chain guide without pulling the engine. I'd be at least looking at it by pulling the valve cover. Actually I would look before spending on the tranny.
I have wondered the same but it probably isn't possible. because I have never seen this mentioned here. It would be a lot easier to drop the transmission than to remove the engine. If it hasn't been stated here as an option then it likely isn't an option. There is a thread here where a guy changed the rear guides without pulling the engine.
 






I also use my explorer to make money. (I deliver people not food) I think the fact that we use our cars for business ought to change the way we think about the coat of repairs. Mine is a 2011 so I have a different set of problems and potential problems than you do, but I think we should approach these decisions differently than most. Instead of looking at the cost of a repair against the value of that car I look at the cost of repair against the money I can make with the car. I recently spent $2100 to replace the timing chain and water pump before I had to. I had the cash and made that money back in a month to replenish my repair fund. So instead of worrying about maintenance and repairs that will have to be done sometime in the future, I plan for them. And Id rather pay a mechanic than the bank. Im convinced that if you keep up with the maintenance, and repair or replace whats needed when its needed, modern engines will last forever

In your case, if I understand your financial situation right (been there) even the $800 might be a problem. If thats the case Id drive it the way it is (if you are sure that wont cause additional problems), save the $800 and replace the band. If I had the $800 Id replace the band and save some money each week to add to a repair fund. Hopefully this fund will grow to enough for the next repair, before its needed
 






I have wondered the same but it probably isn't possible. because I have never seen this mentioned here. It would be a lot easier to drop the transmission than to remove the engine. If it hasn't been stated here as an option then it likely isn't an option. There is a thread here where a guy changed the rear guides without pulling the engine.
The rear lower bolt holding the chain gear is accessed thru a plug which is inside the bell housing. Tranny out you can get at the plug. It is not that easy to feed the chain over the gear without removing the gear. Can it be done? Not by me on my engine. Will it be tight on the top end? Sure. You can do the front without pulling the engine as posted here.
 






I wish it was that simple. EX-wife and divorce took everything I got, and I mean everything, and I only have my Mountaineer and my clothes. The engine is very smooth, quiet and it still has the original spark plugs, wires, and everything else. Trust me, I would love to sell it but I have no credit and I know I can get more miles out of her. I am thinking about a rebuilt on the tranny. When they pull it down and open it up, I know for sure they will find something else. Better to be safe than sorry I guess. Fully rebuilt will cost me $2,500 out the door.

Hopefully, I can work on my credit to buy a newer car. I don't want sedans, would like a mid-size SUV.
I had to replace my 5R55S and used Best Buy Transmissions. Less than 2k for the tranny and fluid. Runs like a dream now. Replaced @ 111,600 and have 126+k now.
 



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