2010 V8 Service Questions | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

2010 V8 Service Questions

IronDevil74

New Member
Joined
August 2, 2020
Messages
8
Reaction score
4
City, State
Seattle
Year, Model & Trim Level
Ford Explorer LTD 2010
Hi,

I am new to the group. I've been reading some of the older posts on some of my questions, but wanted to see if there were some more current recommendations. I am going bulleted list to make this easier to read:
  • 2010 V8 Limited with 132k on it. I am the original owner.
  • I have started towing RVs recently with it. We have rented a few RVs, with GTW under 4000 lbs. So far my Explorer has handled these well.
  • Most normal maintenance done over the years by dealer, although some major items were not done. More recently, I have been doing my own oil changes and brakes. When I owned VWs, I basically did everything on them.
  • Had induction service done by a local shop that got good recommendations as an easy service item to feel them out a little. So far so good.
  • Next up is rear shocks. I am getting a banging noise on one side over bumps. Shock cartridge is leaking so may be the culprit. I could - and may - do these myself. The shop wants $1k for this. If I do these myself, can someone recommend a good online shop to get complete shock-spring-bearing assemblies?
  • Plugs and coils were never done on this car. Shop wants $1500, which seems steep. He says $800 is for the coils and $200 is the plugs. The rest is labor. He says there is not much concern with my engine with plugs breaking, but he says they still treat it like one of the high-risk engines and pre-soak overnight with penetrating oil. I hate the price on this, but I am inclined to let them do it.
  • Transmission service - quote is $360 for flush, fill and filter. I am also inclined to let them do this since it is a messy job.
Thanks for any advice.

Charles
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Time to get your hands dirty.

Most use monroe quickstruts, rears are easy to change.
Plugs are not really difficult for a DIY, coils don't need to be replaced. Use dielectric grease to seal the boots.
Trans service is overdue. Do pan drop and filter change. In a couple years do another pan drop. (only)
Use Mercon LV only in the trans.
 






Bill,

Thanks for the reply. I will look up the Monroe quick struts, and call my local Advance Autoparts.

On the plugs, I am used to the VW 4 cylinders where it takes about 15 minutes to swap out a set of plugs with a t-handle and an extension. On the 2010 V8, I hear the plug removal issues are resolved, but the shop I talked with seems to still think there is some risk. Do you have any thoughts on this? Any advice on removal procedure?

Thanks,
Charles
 






I wouldn't recommend doing a transmission flush on such a high mileage vehicle. I am in the camp that thinks this can dislodge debris and clog passage ways, valves etc. that can lead to transmission failure. A pan drop, filter change and refill is a much safer way to go, IMO. This will swap a little over half the transmission fluid. Then within 3k miles drop the pan and refill again (filter change is not needed). This gets you to around 80% of the fluid being new and you should do a pan drop and refill every 30k-40k miles thereafter.

Also, $1,500 for a coil and plug replacement is outrageous for a 2010 V8. These have one piece plugs from the factory and don't have the breakage issues of the 2006-2008 models. You can buy a complete set of Ford OEM coils from Rock Auto for $500 which have to be removed to replace the spark pugs so their is zero labor cost to replace the coils. A competent mechanic can replace the plugs and coils in an hour so the cost should be well under $1k for parts (around $600) and labor ($200 at most).
 






The rear noise could be the strut or the stabilizer link. I did all 4 Monroe quick struts for around $500, get them online, much cheaper. Rears are very easy, fronts have few more bolts to get them out. The 13mm top 3 bolts on the rears are hard to get to, just Sawzall them. The fronts can be done with the open hood through the engine compartment IIRC with an extension. Mine were rusted so I just twisted them of with the breaker bar.
 






Cha.rles:
If you decide to tackle the rear struts, see the list of usefull threads at the top of this forum. Some good info and pics? Pl indicates one method for removing the top-hat nuts, I've had success by cleaning with a wire brush, lots of penetrating oil for several days, then back and forth with a FLAT ratcheting wrench. (12mm I think)
Even though your plugs are different than mine in design. I think that Fords method in their TSB for the 06/08 3v plug removal would work. I would try that.
If you can do oil changes and brakes, then should be able to tackle the items on your list. You will need a "good" selection of tools that usually pay for themselves as you complete each repair.

And a big welcome to the site. Lots of good and capable people to offer assistance when needed.
 






I replaced all the plugs on my 2010 V8 at 127k miles . They are not the older 2 piece design that gave people problems and they are all easily accessible. I did not change the coils as I had no misfires. Engine ran even stronger than before!
 






The shop is taking you for a ride based on the 06-08s not being a lot of fun... Yours should be much easier. Unless you are actually having misfires that indicate all the coils need replacing, I'd not bother with that expense.

I used the monroe quick struts on the rear on mine. Not a bad project. I concur on just using the sawzall on the top 3 bolts. You aren't reusing them, so there is zero reason to mess around with penetrating oil , etc... Just get them out :)

And on the transmission, I'd also find a different shop if they think they are going to "flush" the 6R80. These are bascially drain and fill units.
 






Charles,

Watch this before doing the transmission. FordMakuloco recommends against a flush, but for different reasons.



I wouldn't be afraid to do the plugs myself. There is a tool you can get for removing broken plugs. You might want to have it on hand just in case.

I wouldn't do coils unless I knew one was faulty.
 






all of those prices are absolutely crazy.
You can get genuine Motorcraft plugs, coils, and struts from rockauto for less than $1500, and do all of this work in a single day with basic hand tools.

6r80 is next to impossible to actually flush. There is a thermostat in line with the trans cooler, this shop will pump 16 quarts of fluid through your trans cooler lines with out actually adding anything to the case. A pan drop and filter/fluid update only takes about an hour and a half, but it is fairly messy though to be honest.
 






... A pan drop and filter/fluid update only takes about an hour and a half, but it is fairly messy though to be honest.

I use a large low profile plastic tote, the kind you can slide under the bed. It's not that messy if you go carefully. What how FordMakuloco does it at about 1.50 min. I've made bigger messes with a simple oil change. (Wind blows the stream of oil away from the pan, the oil shoots out the side and misses the pan... fortunately Ford has put neat metal plates to direct the engine oil into the pan.)

It's actually more annoying filling these transmissions because you don't have a traditional dipstick to use a funnel.
 






After a long delay, I am finally going to order some parts for my suspension work and transmission oil change.

I read a bit about the Rancho rear struts. I am trying to get a little lift on the back for when I tow, so I am thinking these might be a good option:


Any comments on these? I think I can tolerate 1" lift on the back when not towing.
 






My fluid change, should be very similar.

 






Like others have said, plugs and coils on 09-10 are super duper easy. I did mine and it was probably the easiest car I have ever done them in- 30 minutes or so labor so $500 labor is a rip. I did not presoak or any of that other stuff. Just did it on a cold engine like every other car I've owned. Nothing special. When I bought my 09, it had over 200k on it and it was probably original coils. However, no misfires or weird idling or hesitation so I left them alone and they are still fine today.

Regarding the trans, yes it is a PITA with no "real" dipstick, no fill tube, tight quarters and the hot ass cat right next to it. But for $360, I'd do it myself. Just a drain, new filter and fill though. You will need a pump and your arms will get a work out so no need for the gym that day. While the pan is off, put in a drain plug to make life easier in the future. I did and no leaks.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top