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2013 Sport 3.5 EB Died in traffic cranks won't fire up

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savagefan

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Hi, we just bought this unit 290 000 km blown LH turbo. We replaced it and drove for 2 days it idled fine but was missing under load, new spark plugs ordered will be here today. Unfortunately 2 days ago it died in traffic just cruising home. Only code displayed was 0131. When cranking it almost fires up but won't keep running. I looked the engine over and triple checked every connection I removed to do the job, all good and no frayed/burnt wires anywhere. I just bought an OBDlink MX+ and have to learn how to use it. I will put the plugs in first and try to start it up. If no go how should I go about diagnosing this issue? Many thanks in advance.
 
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mguy13sport

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If you have a laptop, you can download ForScan. You could also get it on your phone for $5 thru the app store. ForScan is a professional ford diagnostic tool. Pair the OBD dongle and connect to your device with ForScan and lookup DTC history. I imagine you will have plenty of codes that will point to the problem. Let us know what you find.
 
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savagefan

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Thanx Mguy, just trying to figure out the unit and then onto forscan, would've bought the hard wired obdlink but my laptop runs Windows 7, I hear 10 is required.
 
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peterk9

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Thanx Mguy, just trying to figure out the unit and then onto forscan, would've bought the hard wired obdlink but my laptop runs Windows 7, I hear 10 is required.
I wonder if the issue is fuel related?

Peter
 
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savagefan

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I wonder too Peter hence the obdlink dongle, I'm just trying to see how to read fuel pressure with it (Tank is almost full).
 
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mguy13sport

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Heres how you do it:

Get the OBDLink paired to your phone. There should be an OBDLink app you can use to connect and see some data from the ECU. Once you get it all setup, download Torque PRO (its 5 bucks).

With Torque PRO, you can setup a dashboard of gauges that show raw PID values. There is a PID for fuel rail pressure if you want to see that. Torque can be confusing for the average user (I'm actually working on an app to help this) so let me know if you need help. You can also check DTC with Torque but ForScan is more robust.
 
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savagefan

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Thanks mguy, so I should download Torque pro and Forscan lite? They won't interfere with each other? Pardon the old guy/ rookie questions, i'm a bit of a Luddite but this car forces my hand.:)
 
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mguy13sport

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OBDLink should come with instructions and there also some youtube videos. You first need to pair the OBDLink to your phone using Bluetooth. Plug the OBDLink into your OBD2 port and turn on the ignition. Hold down the little button on front of OBDLink for a few seconds then release. You will see a fast blinking blue light. Next on your phone, go to bluetooth devices and look for the OBDLink. Connect to it and it will prompt for permissions. After you get the device paired, you can download the Torque App from the app store. Once you got Torque installed, launch it and it should auto connect to the OBDLink assuming your ignition is on and bluetooth connected.

There are various lights on the OBDLink that tell you what is happening. I think orange means connected to ecu and red flashing is data streaming. Blue is standard bluetooth led. Solid when connected and usually flashes slow when not.
 
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savagefan

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Ok thanks mguy, got the apps loaded. Changed the spark plugs and the car fired up. It had been sitting in garage for 2 days battery disconnected, drove it onto the street and it died with application of gas pedal. It will start and idle poorly for less than 30 secs at a time. It has p0132 and p0152 pending and p0131 historic fault. Fuel rail pressure was at 1800 and slowly went down to 200psi. Now the car is outside and it is very cold out there. What would be my next step? I am stumped.
 
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mguy13sport

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That fuel rail pressure is normal. I assume u got on it when it was fouling and raised pressure to 1800. Fuel system is working...

Your codes point to bad oxygen sensors / air fuel mixture. My next step would be take out the oxygen sensors and inspect them. If they are fouled, do not replace UNTIL AFTER taking off catalytic converters from turbos and check them for oil / contamination. If the cats are fouled then the issue will keep happening.

If all the above is true then you may have a leaky turbo that is dumping oil into the exhaust and fouling the cats and sensors. Usually you can smell that though. You may just have bad sensors.
 
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savagefan

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The in tank fuel pump is either very quiet or not running even after banging the heil out of the tank. The LH cat was removed with the turbo change, gave it a clean up and cleaned the 02 sensors. The whole intake system was oiled up and on the initial road test we had quite a smoke show. It burned off after 5 minutes or so. Car drove fine for 2 days and then died. Talked to the neighbors we bought it from, (They bought it new) they are honest people and said before the turbo blew the car only needed regular maintenance items. Even with 02 sensor/cat issues the car should still run I would think. As it is now it won't start, gonna push it inside tomorrow when the boys get here.
 
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Lurkin

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I could be way off, but I had a similar issue once. Driving down the road just fine, and took a turn onto a busy road, and all the sudden, mine died, then wouldn't hardly run. It was unbelievable that it would happen all the sudden like that, but the problem ended up being the MAF sensor. It just totally conked out with no warning
 
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savagefan

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Thanks Lurkin, did it give any codes?
 
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Toby Bear

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Hi, we just bought this unit 290 000 km blown LH turbo. We replaced it and drove for 2 days it idled fine but was missing under load, new spark plugs ordered will be here today. Unfortunately 2 days ago it died in traffic just cruising home. Only code displayed was 0131. When cranking it almost fires up but won't keep running. I looked the engine over and triple checked every connection I removed to do the job, all good and no frayed/burnt wires anywhere. I just bought an OBDlink MX+ and have to learn how to use it. I will put the plugs in first and try to start it up. If no go how should I go about diagnosing this issue? Many thanks in advance.
When my 04 died in traffic, It was my crank sensor. I had to replace my harmonic balancer and the sensor. The wobble in the balancer ruined the sensor.
 
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Lurkin

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You're welcome, I just thought it sounded similar, so thought I'd throw it out there, and is a fairly simple fix. No, I didn't get any codes on that one.
 
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savagefan

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Here's my update so far, I'm having a bear of a time with this obdlink, it seems to connect and drop out, gives a prompt to make permanent connection between phone and dongle. When it is connected I'm not sure if I read it right, e.g. with no foot on throttle the position reads 23.9%. For the record I cleaned MAF and both MAPs, very oily. Codes are P0132 P0131 P0151 P0152 which seem to contradict one another (low and high voltage) It makes sense that the issue could be related to the oil blown out of the turbo bearing when it failed, but shouldn't this engine start and run ok for awhile on "Open Loop" until the coolant temp hits its value? The engine will start and idle for 10 seconds or so but any movement of the gas pedal kills the engine dead. The lean fuel mix smell makes the eyes water, I feel it is not getting enough fuel, I have trouble reading pressure, I don't remember how I got it the first time. Miller time.
 
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mguy13sport

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Your fuel pressure is fine. Throttle position will always read wrong in Torque. At WOT it will probably only say 66% open.

Take some of the intake piping off closer to the turbo and see if there is oil inside since you claimed the MAF was oily. I am betting you have a leaky turbo which is also fouling out the oxygen sensors and probably already damaged the catalytic converters.

You already mentioned turbo bearing failure. What was replaced and how long ago?
 
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savagefan

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We bought the car with a blown left turbo, shaft was broken lotsa oil spilled. Changed it, cleaned up as much oil as possible, cleaned the cat, drove fine for 2 days, big miss under load at rpm. Car died on way home, towed, changed spark plugs (For the miss). Got Torque working for me now it is very good, thanks for the heads up again mguy13. Rail pressure is good and high just confirmed again, drops some during cranking which is good. Engine fires and idles poorly short term and dies with throttle application or will run at most 30 secs without touching pedals. Wouldn't this car start and run when cold even with the O2 sensors bad or even disconnected (Open loop)?
 
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savagefan

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Cleaned TB, cleaned oil out of pipes. Lots there wonder if new turbo is leaking or the other side even, can't swap that one out until I get to friend's shop.. Pulled #6 spark plug, black. The few minutes total that it ran was very rich. My hair is falling out.
 
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mguy13sport

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Take the passenger wheel off and see if you can see oil around the turbo. Better yet see if you can unbolt the catalytic converter from the turbo flange (3 bolts). If the bolts look rusty don't bother but if they look decent try it. Then you can inspect inside the turbo housing. You will know right away if its leaking.
 
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