2014 Sport-no compression on 2 front cyl | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2014 Sport-no compression on 2 front cyl

bhayes516

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September 6, 2022
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City, State
Little Rock, AR
Year, Model & Trim Level
2014 Explorer Sport
I recently bought a 2014 Explorer Sport (3.5 Ecoboost) (140k miles) notably discounted with engine problems. Actually could not get it to start and compression check shows 2/3 front cylinders have no compression. Lead suspicion is blown head gasket, but no signs of that in the oil and I don't think that would keep it from starting. Can anyone else think of reason for only 2 of the cylinders to be 0 compression. What else we could look to help troubleshoot? Hoping we don't need to pull the block.
 



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start engine, pull dipstick tube. Hold some toilet tissue over the opening. With engine idling, do you sense pressure coming out of dipstick tube?
 






start engine, pull dipstick tube. Hold some toilet tissue over the opening. With engine idling, do you sense pressure coming out of dipstick tube?
Unfortunately, it does not run at the moment, so can't try that. Thank you, though.
I can't find the error codes at the moment, but I remember several pointing towards timing... would that add any help? Not sure how timing relates to no compression on these engines...?
 






I agree it shouldn't prevent from starting.

I'm not sure how these engines are manufactured, but is it possible to blow head gasket between cylinders?
My 89 5.0 mustang did that. Popped the gasket between 2 cylinders so they had 0 compression.

If your cam timing was messed up, I would expect all cylinders on one bank to be messed up, not just 2.
 






I agree it shouldn't prevent from starting.

I'm not sure how these engines are manufactured, but is it possible to blow head gasket between cylinders?
My 89 5.0 mustang did that. Popped the gasket between 2 cylinders so they had 0 compression.

If your cam timing was messed up, I would expect all cylinders on one bank to be messed up, not just 2.
that's might thought as well, all on 1 side, not just 2.... It could be a head gasket AND timing, but that'd be surprising...
 






Are you able to do a leak-down test?
 












Also, Are these 3.5 EB engines considered clearance or no clearance? If jumped time, will the valves clear the pistons?
 


















If you turn the engine by hand does it resist? Make Any funny noises? It takes several rotations to get to DTC on these engines. To keep things safe, I would at least pull the cover off the front head and inspect the timing components and chain alignment as you rotate by hand.

I assume you already drained the oil and inspected it?

Were the plugs damaged when pulled?
 












These are interference engines fyi. If it did jump timing you will probably see some damage in there
I'm ordering a "spy cam" from amazon today to check inside the cylinders. will respond back
 






If you turn the engine by hand does it resist? Make Any funny noises? It takes several rotations to get to DTC on these engines. To keep things safe, I would at least pull the cover off the front head and inspect the timing components and chain alignment as you rotate by hand.

I assume you already drained the oil and inspected it?

Were the plugs damaged when pulled?
Haven't drained it yet, just no evidence of coolant/water on the dipstick and no smell of such...
Also planning in coming weekends to pull timing cover and check related components.
 






Can't do a leak-down test of a cylinder with no compression...

Sure you can, it'll just show 100% leak down.

I guess I should have clarified the reason is to find out where the compression is escaping.

Putting some compressed air through the spark plug would accomplish the same thing since you are just looking (listening) for where the air is going.
 






Putting some compressed air through the spark plug would accomplish the same thing since you are just looking (listening) for where the air is going.

That actually makes good sense. Just have to make sure the valves are closed before pressurizing.
 






That actually makes good sense. Just have to make sure the valves are closed before pressurizing.
Seems like we are dealing with bent valves.
Pressurized the cylinders and when the intake valves should be closed you can hear and feel it blowing out the intake on the left/front bank.

So I’m calling Monday to get pricing on long block versus finding a machine shop.
 












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