2017 Ford Explorer Issues

[JD88]

Hello,

I've got a huge issue with my 2017 Ford Explorer and I've taken it into Ford and they can't seem to figure it out with it costing me a ton of money. About 4 months ago I turned on my Explorer and I got a bunch of issues popping up on my dash like 4WD off, service stabilitrac, see manual, parking brake light on, steering assist falt, my steering wheel controls don't work, turn signals don't work or high beams, windshield wipers don't work, air bag light it on and finally my terrain adjuster doesn't work. Now I brought it into ford and they put the scanner on it and they came back with it was the data link module. I had them replace it and all the issues went away for a few days and then came back. I have all the same problems. My vehicle is out of warranty so if I want it fixed by for its 130hr at my dealership. I am hoping someone here has experience this or heard of it and can point me in the right direction. I will post a video tomorrow. Thanks

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum.
It may have been easier to say what does work.
I'm not sure I follow this, ".............so if I want it fixed by for its 130hr at my dealership." Are you saying that is what it took to 'fix' it the last time or is that the amount of time you expect them to have it again? Perhaps it was the module that was bad and something caused it to fail a second time. Have you had the battery checked lately? A bad/weak battery can cause all kinds of issues with these vehicles. Many auto shops will do a free check for trouble codes.

Peter

 

[Odrapnew]

Welcome to the Forum.
It may have been easier to say what does work.
I'm not sure I follow this, ".............so if I want it fixed by for its 130hr at my dealership." Are you saying that is what it took to 'fix' it the last time or is that the amount of time you expect them to have it again? Perhaps it was the module that was bad and something caused it to fail a second time. Have you had the battery checked lately? A bad/weak battery can cause all kinds of issues with these vehicles. Many auto shops will do a free check for trouble codes.

Peter

I think he meant $130/hr.....at least that's how I interpreted it.

@JD88 - I also agree with Peter that bad/weak batteries do all sorts of odd things. The crappy part is that a failing battery may test good most of the time, but certain conditions cause it to fail (a single cell that's intermittent for example). You could try to do some investigating on your own if you have and OBDII reader.

 

[peterk9]

I think he meant $130/hr.....at least that's how I interpreted it.

....................................

Thank you. That makes sense. Must have had a brain freeze.

Peter

 

[JD88]

Yes that's correct thank you. It's 130/HR and they said they have no idea how long it would take. I have replaced the battery with a new one. It cost about 450.00 for the data link to have that diagnosed and installed. I'm just at a loss of what it could be.

 

[peterk9]

Yes that's correct thank you. It's 130/HR and they said they have no idea how long it would take. I have replaced the battery with a new one. It cost about 450.00 for the data link to have that diagnosed and installed. I'm just at a loss of what it could be.

As mentioned, I would see if another or similar code is present now that the issue has occurred again. Find an auto store/shop that will do it without cost.

Peter

 

[mguy13sport]

Buy yourself an OBD2 adapter and connect it to your laptop. Download ForScan and run those $450 diagnostic tests yourself for free. Plenty of videos on YouTube to get you started with ForScan.

It sounds like a bad battery but since you mentioned it is brand new it could be a deeper issue such as a bad BCM or other modules. Start cheap and run the DTC scan using ForScan or any other compatible software.

 

[ISTGradFromPSU]

I'm wondering if it's a bad ground somewhere. I have seen videos of mechanics solving electrical issues in cars because the ground wire was either loose or broken

 

[Jambermack]

Hey there. I have a 2017 Explorer. Eco boost. Everything is stock. It only has 40,644 miles on it. At a cold start it sounds “old” to me. Doesn’t sound like it just hit 40k miles. Sounds like 140k miles. Noise is hard to describe. I will try to post a video with the noise.

 

[peterk9]

Hey there. I have a 2017 Explorer. Eco boost. Everything is stock. It only has 40,644 miles on it. At a cold start it sounds “old” to me. Doesn’t sound like it just hit 40k miles. Sounds like 140k miles. Noise is hard to describe. I will try to post a video with the noise.

Welcome to the Forum.

Peter

 

[Jambermack]

Thanks. Glad to be here

 

[texsn95]

Could be a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. When those go, then all sorts of random electrical issues can pop up. Many times they show a large under or over-voltage reading so it'd be good to verify your alternator output is in the mid 14s where it should be.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Hey there. I have a 2017 Explorer. Eco boost. Everything is stock. It only has 40,644 miles on it. At a cold start it sounds “old” to me. Doesn’t sound like it just hit 40k miles. Sounds like 140k miles. Noise is hard to describe. I will try to post a video with the noise.

welcome to EF! is it a slower start, rough start, unusually loud roaring, etc? trying to think of things that sound old and worn

 

[Jambermack]

welcome to EF! is it a slower start, rough start, unusually loud roaring, etc? trying to think of things that sound old and worn

Right after the engine turns over it just sounds older. No whining, no metal noises, no hissing, no banging or smell or anything. Just doesn’t sound like 40k miles. It’s related to the accelerator because when I hit the gas the noise is constant.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Right after the engine turns over it just sounds older. No whining, no metal noises, no hissing, no banging or smell or anything. Just doesn’t sound like 40k miles. It’s related to the accelerator because when I hit the gas the noise is constant.

maybe a vid could help then, im not 100% sure i get it sorry man.

 

[Jambermack]

Right after the engine turns over it just sounds older. No whining, no metal noises, no hissing, no banging or smell or anything. Just doesn’t sound like 40k miles. It’s related to the accelerator because when I hit the gas the noise is constant.

By noise I’m just referring to the sound of the engine. Doesn’t sound like it when it idles after it’s warm.

 

[Jambermack]

maybe a vid could help then, im not 100% sure i get it sorry man.

I will try and upload a video

 

[mguy13sport]

DI engines sound loud when cold. Here what my 2013 Sport sound like at cold startup:

 

[Jambermack]

I will try and upload a video

 

[Jambermack]

It wouldn’t let me post something larger