How to: 2020 Explorer ST Aftermarket Amp & Sub Install

[SHUMAX]

Super helpful write-up and I would have never torn into my new ST without it. I followed most of the paths but chose to use the Audio Control LC2i Pro to take those high-level inputs from the factory sub. I also opted for the JL Audio 12Tw-3 in a custom box and mounted it above the spare tire. The bass is amazing and that Rockford amp has plenty of power.

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Who made that box? I want one! What were the measurements? Thanks!!

 

[peterk9]

Who made that box? I want one! What were the measurements? Thanks!!

The member you quoted was last seen here on May 12, 2021 so may no longer be following.

Peter

 

[jgarces556]

I followed your write up with a few tweaks, I used the stock enclosure with an 8" Pioneer sub, cut the plug off the wires for the stock sub and spliced them into an RCA cable for the input on the amp. You definitely need an amp to push this thing the stock amp didn't even come close, it hits hard but wont go as low as a standalone setup. I will say the factory enclosure isn't bad I am guessing they put more time into its design than the rest of the system.
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SO did replacing the sub with the pioneer make enough of a difference to you in bass sound with the stock amp and enclosure? I don't want to install an amp and do all the wiring just want to add a little more bass replacing it with the kicker 8"subwoofer I have. if it's worth even doing that or just leave it alone in your opinion?

 

[peterk9]

SO did replacing the sub with the pioneer make enough of a difference to you in bass sound with the stock amp and enclosure? I don't want to install an amp and do all the wiring just want to add a little more bass replacing it with the kicker 8"subwoofer I have. if it's worth even doing that or just leave it alone in your opinion?

Welcome to the Forum.
Whatever you choose to do, keep in mind that any mods to the vehicle have the potential to affect the warranty on OEM parts tied to the mod.

Peter

 

[QuickExploration]

This guide was awesome. I ended up taking a few creative liberties that I think turned out really well, maybe it'll inspire others like your post inspired me. Sorry photos are in weird orientation, guess Apple decides what's the best way to transfer photos.

First I ran the bass control knob through the light control panel for easy access. This was achieved by disassembling the bass control knob and drilling a hole big enough for the stem to fit through. I was then able to bolt it in there no problem.

I opted to run the power wire through a grommet found on the bottom left of the steering column. I drilled a hole the same diameter as the wire in the rubber and then slid the wire through the grommet. I didn't water proof it because the rubber created a very tight seal against the wire. Make sure you run the wire through the grommet and connect it to the battery before seating the grommet. The image is upside down because that's the only way I could get a good photo of it.

I then ran the power wire behind the fuse box and down into the floor trim. I opted to buy a trim toolkit which made popping the trim out a breeze. I ran this wire all the way to the backseat and had it come out where the cupholders/cubby/plastic whatever is.

I bolted the LoC to the subwoofer and ran all pertinent wires together. I connected a 4 pin quick disconnect cable that holds all of the speaker wires output from the oem subwoofer. I ran the on signal from the fuse box and just bundled it in the same loom. I also added a connector for the positive and negative. This way if I need to remove the subwoofer I just unplug the on wire, twist off the speaker wires, and unclip the power, easy peasy. I rarely ever use the third row, so I have more than enough space for groceries, camping gear, etc when the subwoofer is plugged in. I also put some velcro stapled to the bottom of the subwoofer because I had an incident accelerating too fast (whoops).

All in all the installation wasn't too hard, just took some planning and the proper tools. I definitely wouldn't of done it if the resources weren't available in the original post, so for that I thank you.

 

[peterk9]

^^ Welcome to the Forum.
Thanks for adding your project.
I usually save my pictures to a photo program I have. This allows me to resize and correct the orientation if necessary. Then I add them to my post.

Peter

 

[Carbon Gray ST]

I know the original poster probably isn’t around anymore but this how too was amazing!!
I had a “professional” shop install a subwoofer for me in my 2025. Needless to say it was a nightmare. Every single thing about it was wrong.
I spent a week undoing the trainwreck.

Here are some pics of the install I did after removing their hack job. Shoulda done it myself to begin with. When will I learn?

 

[J L W]

Hey everyone! I have a 2020 Explorer ST. Love it. I have the Tech package option which, among other things, adds two extra speakers to the B&O sound system. Overall, I find the B&O system to be quite good for an OEM system. However, as it always seems to be the case for me, the lows are never quite strong enough.

Backstory
I know there's an 8" sub in the back (it's a paper cone, if you happen to be wondering), but it doesn't really hit low enough for what I am used to. I decided to add on some extra grunt. My experience has been mostly with older vehicles that have a discrete radio (which I would replace, thus giving me pre-amp outputs). The only exception being my wife's DD, a '12 Audi A4 - but we had an audio shop install that sub and amp. Anyway, I decided to do this install my self.

Strategy
I did some research, bought a FSM, talked to the great folks at Crutchfield, and ultimately decided that the best place to grab the high level speaker input signal was from the wires feeding the OEM 8" sub. As it turns out, this sub has a dual voice coil, so the "Subwoofer 1" set of wires became my left channel, and the "Subwoofer 2" set of wires my right channel.

I would tap into those wires and run the signal to the amp nestled under the passenger seat. The power for the amp would come from the battery under/behind the passenger cowl, and the ground would come from a chassis connection near the amp.

The Equipment
It doesn't really matter for this "How To", but I selected a JL Audio 10" shallow sub (300W RMS @ 2 Ohm) in just about the smallest sealed box I could find. We use the Explorer as our family hauler so the cargo space in the rear is very precious to me. I don't want a massive sub box taking up all the space. So I found the smallest 10" box I could that would still sound great. For those wondering: it sounds great. For the amp, I selected a Rockford Fosgate T500X1br mono amp, it puts out 500W RMS @ 1 Ohm / 300W RMS @ 2 Ohm. The main reason I selected this amp (other than I love RF stuff) is its tiny size. It is really, really small. And the space under the passenger seat has an air duct taking up most of middle of that area, so I needed something small enough to fit along the side of the duct (which this does). The power and ground is a 8 gauge RF cable set with sting speaker wires blah blah blah. Enough words. Pictures. Here they are installed:

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Outstanding write-up and thorough description Thank - You

 

[1RanchKing]

First of all I applaud you for a very nice write up that saved me tons of time and frustration! I would like to add to this great post with a spot on the drivers side under the dash where there is a hole with a rubber grommet/plug in it. Can easily cut a hole in this rubber and squeeze 8 or 4 gauge through. Me I ran 1/0 with some techflex on it and had to enlarge said hole and use my own grommet. Be careful drilling as there are other wires on the otherside of the firewall. It was fun concealing the 1/0 under the trim panels but is possible.

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I like that spot , since it also conceals fuse holder ! However , I'm running a 2nd battery in rear cargo area(keeping 3rd Row down) , and need shortest route possible. And want to run 1/0 AWG - POS & NEG directly to said battery. Since absolutely no one makes a HO alternator for 6th Gen Explorer , and I'm committed to a 4200W rms amp & Sub @2 Ohms. Ugh , meaning I can't Return them , nor do I really want to. I pray 2 x 1/0's can go exactly thru where OP ran his 4 AWG ? Or my "dream" is toast !

 

[peterk9]

I like that spot , since it also conceals fuse holder ! However , I'm running a 2nd battery in rear cargo area(keeping 3rd Row down) , and need shortest route possible. And want to run 1/0 AWG - POS & NEG directly to said battery. Since absolutely no one makes a HO alternator for 6th Gen Explorer , and I'm committed to a 4200W rms amp & Sub @2 Ohms. Ugh , meaning I can't Return them , nor do I really want to. I pray 2 x 1/0's can go exactly thru where OP ran his 4 AWG ? Or my "dream" is toast !

Welcome to the Forum.
Good luck, and let us know the final result.

Pter