2nd gen steering upgrade

[albi1cnobi1]

Drove around yesterday, put about 80 miles on the new parts. Steering is smooth as silk. No binding or play at all so preliminary results seem to indicate success. Steering hasn't felt this good for a long time. I guess I didn't realize how bad it was because it happens so gradually. The old joint once I got it out, was alternating between being stuck and being like a wet noodle. I think it was due.

 

[CDW6212R]

Drove around yesterday, put about 80 miles on the new parts. Steering is smooth as silk. No binding or play at all so preliminary results seem to indicate success. Steering hasn't felt this good for a long time. I guess I didn't realize how bad it was because it happens so gradually. The old joint once I got it out, was alternating between being stuck being like a wet noodle. I think it was due.

Was your old one also the double cardon joint, like the early 96/97 version? I think that DC joint was to help smooth that shaft turning, basically keeping it from changing lengths. The single joint makes the shaft shorten/grow as it turns. As long as the shaft slides smoothly, it should work fine and last a long time.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

Yes it was the DC joint. The new shaft and joint are smooth as silk.

 

[albi1cnobi1]

What is the distance from the new bellows to the nearest section of exhaust manifold?

Looks to be about 3 1/2" to 4", measured it last night. Kinda dark but thats close.

 

[jd4242]

I wonder if this same type of setup would work on first gens.but we would have to use lower joint FR1715DD instead of FR1789DD.I don't really see the need for two joints unless first gens have more angle but looks pretty straight to me



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1856-s
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1715dd

 

[albi1cnobi1]

I wonder if this same type of setup would work on first gens.but we would have to use lower joint FR1715DD instead of FR1789DD.I don't really see the need for two joints unless first gens have more angle but looks pretty straight to me



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1856-s
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1715dd

I agree. And I think you're right on with those part numbers.

 

[Scott B.]

I wonder if this same type of setup would work on first gens.but we would have to use lower joint FR1715DD instead of FR1789DD.I don't really see the need for two joints unless first gens have more angle but looks pretty straight to me



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1856-s
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1715dd

The reason I used 2 u-joints was two-fold: my factory shaft had 2 rag-joints, and I didn't think the center line of the column and steering box were lined up enough.

A little more cost, but the result is smooth as silk steering.

 

[jd4242]

The reason I used 2 u-joints was two-fold: my factory shaft had 2 rag-joints, and I didn't think the center line of the column and steering box were lined up enough.

A little more cost, but the result is smooth as silk steering.

They may not be in a first gen, idk.I'm just trying to save little money.I think I'm going to try it with just one.worse cause ill just have to buy another joint.

 

[gavin]

It appears Amazon has both parts. Free shipping and a tad bit cheaper than OP.

Flaming River FR1789P 3/4" Universal Joint Pyramid

Flaming River FR1856 Slip-Collapsible Shaft

 

[jd4242]

What's the -S signify in the part number for the shaft? Flaming River doesn't seem to have a -S listed in their parts, and FR1856 is shiny stainless like, not that flat steel-colored.

Anywho, for what it's worth, Amazon has both parts. Free shipping and a tad bit cheaper than OP.

Flaming River FR1789P 3/4" Universal Joint Pyramid

Flaming River FR1856 Slip-Collapsible Shaft

Believe its for "slip" but idk

 

[gavin]

Believe its for "slip" but idk

looking up FR1856 and FR1856-S on SummitRacing, the difference between the 2 is the length.
Although Flaming River's website only has 1 result for FR1856, which is the shorter one (which, per Summit, is FR1856-S) at ~30" long.

Edited my post, since as far as I can tell, the one linked on Amazon is the 30" part

 

[jd4242]

looking up FR1856 and FR1856-S on SummitRacing, the difference between the 2 is the length.
Although Flaming River's website only has 1 result for FR1856, which is the shorter one (which, per Summit, is FR1856-S) at ~30" long.

Edited my post, since as far as I can tell, the one linked on Amazon is the 30" part

I ordered the two I posted links too.summit has free ship right now also.they will be here monday.so I'll let you all know if its possible to use just one joint in a first gen like the OP did

 

[CDW6212R]

FYI for many parts, Summit sells a lot of things on eBay, for the same price but with free shipping. I'm looking at coil packs again, and normal Summit S&H is still at least $9.95 right?

 

[jd4242]

FYI for many parts, Summit sells a lot of things on eBay, for the same price but with free shipping. I'm looking at coil packs again, and normal Summit S&H is still at least $9.95 right?

Yep.when I bought my dream beam I bought them at summit and paid $38 for shipping before I saw them on ebay.I called and they refunded my shipping.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yep.when I bought my dream beam I bought them at summit and paid $38 for shipping before I saw them on ebay.I called and they refunded my shipping.

They are good people, the best parts source I have ever dealt with.

They bought TFS long ago too, which is a good match of fine businesses. I wish they would build a more feasible Cleveland head, with Windsor end bolt holes. I like the CHI 3V head the best for a street car, but $2600 is way high ,,, plus a unique intake.

 

[jd4242]

Just a fyi.I just tried doing this same type of setup only using one joint and it can't be done with only one.I tried it on my 1994 ranger and my first gen explorer looks exactly the same.o well

 

[gmanpaint]

Anybody know if they make a U-joint for just the top end to go to the column, and the stock rag joint? Is that even possible or do I have to replace the entire set up? I want to replace the worn out body lift extension with a U-joint.

 

[jd4242]

Anybody know if they make a U-joint for just the top end to go to the column, and the stock rag joint? Is that even possible or do I have to replace the entire set up? I want to replace the worn out body lift extension with a U-joint.

I posted a link in your thread with every option that they make as far as joints.

 

[Jvogerl13]

I am about to do this upgrade to my 1997 explorer. Any helpful hints or advice? Is it best to remove to old shaft before ordering the parts?

 

[huskertodd]

I tried this upgrade and found an issue that wasn't brought up.
In order for this mod to work, I'm pretty sure you need to have a bodylift of 2" or more. I have the 4" superlift with no body lift and the angle on the flaming river joint is slightly too much. It would bind up at certain points. I even tried putting 2 FR joints right next to each other to handle the increased angle sort of trying to mimic the factory double cardan joint but you'd need a carrier joint down by the bend to support the shaft.
I spoke with the FR tech support to find a solution but was told it seems to need a double cardan joint which they don't offer.
So I'm out $300+ and ended up having to buy a new factory one (later version 98+). Works fine.
I still have the FR parts hoping to find a double cardan joint down the road if possible or in case I put a bodylift on it.
So just a heads up for everyone without a bodylift....