3 JL 10"s or 2 Kicker comp 12"s | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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3 JL 10"s or 2 Kicker comp 12"s

Damn, sorry I was gone for a couple days or I would have changed that decision. Components are a PAIN IN THE A$$. Also, you minus well save up to get the speaker amp right away. If you dont have enough power going to those components then you will Kill them. A HU's power is not enough to power those speakers.
 



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yea i was planning on getting a speaker amp from a friend, alpine something, not sure the details yet. i went ahead and ordered the HU and amps though, so ill get that all ready, and then in another week or 2 i will put the door speakers in with that alpine amp.
 






also when building does it make much of a difference to use 1/2 inch mdf or 3/4 inch mdf, do i really need the 3/4(like does it make it sound better?)
 






Also when i wire this up, i run the wire back to my power distribution block, then 2 wires from the block, 1 to each amp, and then from each amp to each sub correct? Just like i would hook up one, i mean except the power distribution block deal, right?
 






You run your 8 guage power wire to the distribution block. Then it has like 10 or 12 guage to go to each amp. You dont run a power wire to the subs.

The RCA's you run one from the HU to the back, and split it with splitters to each amp. You dont run RCA's to the subs.

Speaker Wire you run from each amp to the wire-holder-thingy (its name escapes me) on the Box. From there you run more speaker wire from the inside of the wire-thingy to one side of the Dual Voice Coil. You then run a wire from the first side of the DVC to the other side. Make sure that all of your positives are lined up and all of your negatives are lined up or you will fry your subs. Check the Manual that comes with the subs if you have a questions. If you wire the subs incorrectly, you will destroy them.
 












Be sure you do a really good job making that box, I would recommend getting some corner bracing while you are getting more MDF. And be patient making your box, you arnt going to be able to do it in a afternoon without cutting corners. And if you are really smart, you will make it about 2 ftcubed per sub and vent the box for more bass.
 






yea the total volume is gonna be 4.6, not sure if im venting it yet, seems like you get more clean/tighter sounding bass with it sealed
 






You get cleaner tighter bass with it sealed, but you get a lot more with it Vented. Youve got a decent set-up going but Id bet if you make a sealed box, a couple of months down the line you will wish you make a vented. I sure do. I didnt make my box though, I bought it and now I wish I payed 50$ more and got a big ass vented box.

I live about an hour north of you on an Island off of Brunswick. We have to drive all the way to the outskirts of Brunstink to get anything besides simple hardware from an Ace Or Radioshack. It sucks.
 






well maybe i will use this 1/2 inch mdf to make a sealed, and if i dont like it then ill use the 3/4 and make a vented
 






If I were you I would go down to best buy or somewhere else and listen to the bass from different boxes: sealed, ported, or band pass. Band pass is the loudest you'll get out of your system but lacks a little on precision. I have sealed so I get a nice accurate, tight bass.

On the box you could go with 5/8" thick instead of 3/4". The 1/2" thick is the same that the cheapo boxes are made of.

On the power cable, if your pushing over 500 watts total from both amps then I'd say go with the 4GA splitting off with 8GA from the distribution block.
 






exactly what im doing...4 GA to 8 GA, but i have a question on splitting those RCAs, wont i need 2 Y cables or is it just one?
 






One pair for each amp....splitting the rca's will not allow you to have control from the headunit (example: if you split them, then the controls for the subwoofer will be increase or decrease the regular speakers also) For me, different music will sometimes require bass and you want to be able to adjust it.
 






so is there a way to do it where i can still have control from the head unit? because i agree for different music the bass levels need to go up or down
 






Hey so that pioneer head unit has a ground with a like hook clamped on the end, like to put on a bolt, but there is also a black ground coming from the wiring harness.....so should i chop that hook thing off and hook them together or how do i ground the HU?
 






ok i checked the directions....the HU directions say ground to chassis, while the wiring harness directions say hook the ground wire to HU wire.....so i guess ground both of them to chassis would be the solution?
 






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