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4.0 OHV Makum White Puffy Cloud




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When I rebuilt the engine in my ranger, I used a tank pressurized by an air compressor that the engine oil was in. I used a hose connected where the oil pressure switch goes. I had 60 psi oil pressure on initial startup.
I'm trying to picture this. Maybe look for a YT to give an idea on this. My 5.4 cranked for a few times and got psi right away and was good to start in a short time.
 






I'm trying to picture this. Maybe look for a YT to give an idea on this. My 5.4 cranked for a few times and got psi right away and was good to start in a short time.
That explains it and a visual of the item
 






Now understanding the concept, decided to go roundup some parts for the pressurized oil prime technique. It may be later this afternoon till we have any progress. It fights me every step of the way.....
 






You can build the tank from parts for less than that. I used an air tank from a semi truck I got at a junk yard
 






You can build the tank from parts for less than that. I used an air tank from a semi truck I got at a junk yard
A 1.25 gal bug sprayer worked perfectly connected with the right fitting going into the oil sensor hole. When I pulled the sensor out to do the prime trick, no oil had even reached it all the cranking I did the other night. It took 1.5 qts of oil soon coming thru the rocker arms. I gave it the rest what I put in the tank about 2 qts. Earlier posted during tear down how facinating all the oil passages were to see; it's no doubt how much oil it would take to fill them all.

Spent the rest of the day-eve assembling everything with tighten O2's and fan shroud left to go this morning. No extra bolts and everything accounted for nothing missing. I did epoxy the broken dipstick handle back together and it turned out great. I'm anxious to hear it run...
 






A 1.25 gal bug sprayer worked perfectly connected with the right fitting going into the oil sensor hole. When I pulled the sensor out to do the prime trick, no oil had even reached it all the cranking I did the other night. It took 1.5 qts of oil soon coming thru the rocker arms. I gave it the rest what I put in the tank about 2 qts. Earlier posted during tear down how facinating all the oil passages were to see; it's no doubt how much oil it would take to fill them all.

Spent the rest of the day-eve assembling everything with tighten O2's and fan shroud left to go this morning. No extra bolts and everything accounted for nothing missing. I did epoxy the broken dipstick handle back together and it turned out great. I'm anxious to hear it run...
Much easier than a drill turning the oil pump trick. I'm just as anxious to hear this project come to completion.
 


















It started. Only a few secs of ticky tick then full oil pressure clearing up mostly. The engine isn't right...I have a cam position sensor code and a P1151 O2 not working bank 2. Very rough idle along with small exhaust leak due to crappy gaskets from Enginetech. O2 on bank 2 isn't swinging and shared O2 sensor 2 is flat. Bank 1 O2 is good. Engine is in limp mode I believe with no apparent misfires. Maybe coolant going thru exhaust ruined O2 sensors prior blown head gaskets. Will swap O2's around tomorrow and also recheck cam position sync. I bought the align tool and it was perfect....Will hook up Forscan for better data.
 






Getting closer
 






Before I go out to work on trucky wucky, something in my head is asking, "did you even plug the cam sensor in"? Maybe a dumb question being it couldn't even run with that not plugged in. First thing to check....
 






Before I go out to work on trucky wucky, something in my head is asking, "did you even plug the cam sensor in"? Maybe a dumb question being it couldn't even run with that not plugged in. First thing to check....
It will run without it
 












Have it out on the road for drive cycles. Seems to be running OK. Fuel trims haven't leveled out still high LTFT (lean). Maybe due to the slight exhaust leaks. Will retighten the manifold nuts in the morning. Metal gaskets came off and composite whatevers went back on and they leak.
 






I read a thread that someone recommended Remflex exhaust gaskets for hard to seal exhaust manifolds. I don't remember which member or I'd give them credit.
 






I read a thread that someone recommended Remflex exhaust gaskets for hard to seal exhaust manifolds. I don't remember which member or I'd give them credit.
Still have the original metal gaskets that came off. Wonder if old ones can be....anyway the exhaust leak is a pet peeve of mine reminds of the old days when ya just didn't care. Exhaust leak before O2 can cause probs. B1&2 O2's are swinging normal and the shared O2 #2 is a constant voltage .75 I think.

Stupid laptop won't stay powered up to use Forscan. Will use my other laptop with Forscan loaded and give it a real good look at everything to determine the fuel trim issues. Reminder....I had fuel trim issues (lean conditions) before everything went to sheeit. So this could also be a clue in diagnostics now that mechanical problems have been repaired.
 












I'm back after a medical ash-whopp'n. Had my SI joints screwed together. 3-screws each side. Still have an iffy spinal disc prob that will blow any second BOOM ! Life goes on.

Now that it's nice & HOT here in TX at 100+ deg, I can continue diagnosis with this truck. It's coming up on 500 mile oil change after rebuild. It runs OK and still has infamous lean codes P0171 & P0174. Have my smoke machine ready to go & repaired with replacement wick heater wire.

Should I start a new thread ?
 



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Take care of that back. Fixation of the SI joints puts more pressure on those lower lumbar discs. Do all the PT and then some—get that core strong and make sure your quads and hip flexors are stretched regularly.

Keep this thread going, makes it easier for us to look back and see what you’ve done
 






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