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4.0 OHV Makum White Puffy Cloud

Clutch5sp

Active Member
Joined
September 21, 2019
Messages
64
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123
City, State
TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer XLT
Hello all...This truck has been very dependable since purchased new in 2000 Explorer 4dr 4x4 XLT 101k miles. Last few years has been quite the journey and learning experience with this & that's going wrong. You know...all the typical shtuff like vac leaks, fuel trim issues, rough running, and every other problem listed in these forums. I have a good understanding of PCM data for troubleshooting and my newest toy Forscan software to work with all my Ford vehicles. I've been chasing high LTFT (lean) for a long time now with no vac leaks or misfires. Compression test finally led to a better diagnosis finding low comp 1-cylinder each bank butt it still ran ok. Wife decided to keep driving it knowing something could go wrong at anytime. She brought it home Christmas eve with white smoke gushing from the tailpipe. Here's where I am right now....engine has been pulled and on engine stand torn down for inspection of all parts.

First intake gasket replacement job found a lot of thick oil sludge under valve covers, on heads, valve train & in the valley. This could have been caused by vac leak being regular with oil changes etc.. Intake ports had a layer of gunk and guess this comes from the EGR letting dirty exhaust back through. Cleaned it all up good as possible with an oil change afterwards.

Second intake gasket job was done due to the china rails (intake manifold to block front & rear) were not sealed good with Felpro kit and tube of pooky. Extra pooky got that sealed, butt still have a vac leak per scan data. Smoke test found IAC & EGR leaking and were replaced. Everything is tight as a tic while scan data still shows very high LTFT (lean) 18% to 25% bank 1&2 setting the infamous P0171 & P0174 codes with CEL of course. STFT behaved almost normal swinging above & below zero and O2's were doing their thing as normal. Nothing would change LTFT at idle or driving snap throttle EXCEPT adding propane at the air cleaner tube before the MAF. Fuel filter, pump, injectors were all working properly.

Compression test found cylinder #3 120psi bank 1 and cylinder #5 130psi bank 2 to be lower than the rest being 160psi. All increased 10psi with a squirt of oil in the plug holes. I concluded the low compression each bank was false flag for a vac leak diagnosis tricked to being a whole engine affected not bank specific. This was causing the O2's to adjust for the improper combustion. The engine seemed to run OK, but these issues were concerning me knowing a huge repair was in the near future.

We have a blown head gasket as white smoke gushes from the tailpipe. I have everything tools hoist stand etc...except cam bearing puller on order. Cracked heads between the valve seats #3 & #4 along with blown gaskets. I'm seeing signs of light wear in rod & crank bearings most likely due to the sludge & crusty carap all in everything everywhere. Cylinder bores & pistons look pretty good no signs of wear. Rockers were pitted and worn at valve contact. Lifters look good, and will be taken apart & cleaned. Every moving part will get new bearings and/or replaced due to the crud going on in the oil for quite a long time. Surprised the damage isn't worse while count my blessings. Almost 2-gallons drained from the oil pan as 25% of that was water. No real milkshake happened.

New rings bearings push rods rockers gaskets seals HEADS and a high volume oil pump will hopefully get this truck back on the road for another 23-years. $1,450 for parts is only 2-payments back in the day when financed. Now trying to to get everything cleaned as parts trickle in for the next week or so. I have pics...need to find pic host site to share em with you all.
 



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I enjoy seeing someone who grabs the bull by the balls, pulls the motor, and does it right while it’s out.

Going to run like a Swiss watch for a long time when you’re done.
 






Spent the day cleaning the bare block and then cleaning some more. Fascinated how all the oil passages route thru the block sorta concerned how oil presure even gets up to the heads & rockers. Parts trickle in maybe see the new heads from King tomorrow. Once I get all the chunks off and basically clean, I plan to hone/deglaze the cylinders with a 3-stone hone. Still waiting on camshaft bearing puller/installer and will not proceed any assembly until the cam bearings are out, the block is honed and cleaned extra clean. Stupid Haynes manual is taking too long to arrive for specs and the ring gap is in question....Gotta have patience NOW.

Will work on pic host site today maybe in the morning. I'm hoping you guys can spot something I'm missing or doing wrong. I did freak out cleaning the inside of the block and saw what looked like a crack from bottom cylinder to outside of the block. This was on almost every cylinder, butt soon realized this must be where the metal came together during casting.
 






I'm in a tizzy right now (lol?). Anyway, the new rings seem a bit big in the gap.
Old Ring = New Ring
.035" = .028"

The cylinder top ridge has no snag with fanger nail and the bores all look great so, I went with a STD size. For reference, Hastings help pages show new ring gap should be .012" to .022"...Enginetech Premium ring kit STD gap is .028" sitting 1" in the bore.

I need the spec for these things and can't wait for the Haynes manual to get here. They have an online manual...maybe do that today.
 






There’s a Ford factory service manual on here somewhere, it’s like 5,500 pages.

@Fix4Dirt i think knows where it is?
 












I'm in a tizzy right now (lol?). Anyway, the new rings seem a bit big in the gap.
Old Ring = New Ring
.035" = .028"

The cylinder top ridge has no snag with fanger nail and the bores all look great so, I went with a STD size. For reference, Hastings help pages show new ring gap should be .012" to .022"...Enginetech Premium ring kit STD gap is .028" sitting 1" in the bore.

I need the spec for these things and can't wait for the Haynes manual to get here. They have an online manual...maybe do that today.
sent you a PM
 






49F8C01C-AA32-446D-ABB2-D7CB7385B962.jpeg

This is for the 4.0 OHV pushrod motor, from the factory service manual
 












Thanks guys for the info. It means a lot...you all helping me n'shtuff. Now back to the ring thing. These rings have ductile properties and could expand more being not a plain cast iron ring. Enginetech never gives a gap or any info besides top bottom & oil ring positions. Like duuuuh. So easy a caveman could....never mind.

Should I order the Hastings ring set .010" over and simply file em to correct gap? Should I assume the rings I have now are faulty with such a big gap of .028"? The original ring gap is 0.35" and makes me wonder what's going on here.
 






Just ordered the Hastings .010" over ring set. Let's see what that gives me for ring gap when they arrive in a few days. Heads & cam bearing tool get here today. Did the online Haynes manual says the same spec as you guys have shown .... thanks. Still working on the pics off my camera. Would you believe I have never owned a sail foam?
 






I’d imagine the factory spec gap is for the original ring material only, so wise to go with a traditional ring with the same thermal properties.

Did you happen to mic the bores after the hone?
 






Yes, I mic'd the bores haven't hit it with hone yet. The bores are all almost perfect. That's why I'm spazz'n over the original top rings have a .035" gap. Engine didn't burn oil butt it did all gunk up very badly as I now see in the bearings that it had an oil delivery prob. Not bad butt enough to show wear. Wife mentioned one time it was very low on oil during a service. This was way back when I was in height of my career and just paid to have shtuff done and trusted the dealership....lol?

The remainder of orders came in yesterday heads, head bolts, rockers, Haynes manual, and cam bearing tool. All cam bearings can come out thru the front...for reference. I removed the rear bearing thru the rear. We hone cylinders today then gets a good bath. Need to go to HFT and get a metric tap & die kit to chase & clean threads and some more cleaning brushes. The water jackets are very rusty not sure best way to get that all clean. I've used a rust removal product that is amazing and also protects the metal. Not Por15, butt similar acid like product (can't recall the name). Not sure this chemical should get anywhere near cylinder bores etc.....

While I'm here this morning...going to try and post a few pics...
 

































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