4.0 OHV Makum White Puffy Cloud

[C420sailor]

hope so too. They neutered that stuff about 20 years ago, thanks to California. It used to be absolutely vicious stuff, used to clean motorcycle carb racks with it. Got a can of the new stuff, and it was useless.

Maybe you’ll have better results?

 

[Clutch5sp]

Sorry for the delay on progress. Our internet was taken out by a truck hitting the main panel/connection thingie up the road. Probably by a meth-tarder in a danged ole Dadge or something. This area is heavy on the meth...ain't got no teef eiver.

Anyway, I chose to go with the Enginetech rings with the gap ranging from .022" to .024". That ain't bad PLUS I didn't need to file the other set down to fit.

Berryman's dipshtuff ($39 from O'Ripmee's) worked GREAT and got those ucky pistons all nice N clean. I spent hours making sure they we close to perfect as they could get. Rod bearings looked really good. I mean really good. They will get replaced with new from the kit. Gotta check clearance as I'm keeping an Excel sheet documenting everything.

New cam bearings are weird different from old having the mid two have a groove/galley in them. The block already has this groove for the oil to get all up in dur. Crap crap crap...here we go again with more confusion of parts. With this oil groove being doubled combined with the high volume oil pump, it might not matter? There will be more oil preloaded in the groove to get that all cam slicker'd up real good.

Would like to get pistons in the block maybe later today. I have work-work to be completed (work from home CAD guy). Bought a quart of Rustoleum rusty metal primer to get the block all fancied up. The stock grey paint is OK...not exciting like black as in my 5.4 in muh utha trucku. Valve covers are in great shape. Grey outside heavy sludge buildup with a tint of milkshake inside. Orange with pink polka touch of purple pin stripe w/shazam lightning bolts....that will not happen.

 

[Clutch5sp]

Oh fun times here...got all pistons in and rod bearings plasigaged perfect in spec. Only weird thing is the last piston/rod was for cylinder 9? F'd the cam bearings up maybe didn't get the bore cleaned as something made last one rub hard top & bottom of the bearing when cam installed.

So I f'd up...so what. I don't drink or do dope, I'm naturally a dum-bass. Now that this is all cleared up, $22 later as Rock Auto delivered another set. Arrived next day for reg shipping costs. Enginetech main parts warehouse is in Dallas so that's a plus.

Learned about why the 2 new mid cam bearings have the groove in them as the bore also has. This helps more oil get to the heads rockerarm area these engines were always starved for lube in this area. Once the cam has been installed properly and turns freely, I have a few parts to finish cleaning for a final assembly, paint, and put back into the truck.

Just learned our truck is CA emissions. Destined for CA, we bought it brand new here in TX with shipping damage hood dents windsheild cracked lowered cost about $8k less than sticker. Any info on what all is different?

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Oh fun times here...got all pistons in and rod bearings plasigaged perfect in spec. Only weird thing is the last piston/rod was for cylinder 9? F'd the cam bearings up maybe didn't get the bore cleaned as something made last one rub hard top & bottom of the bearing when cam installed.

So I f'd up...so what. I don't drink or do dope, I'm naturally a dum-bass. Now that this is all cleared up, $22 later as Rock Auto delivered another set. Arrived next day for reg shipping costs. Enginetech main parts warehouse is in Dallas so that's a plus.

Learned about why the 2 new mid cam bearings have the groove in them as the bore also has. This helps more oil get to the heads rockerarm area these engines were always starved for lube in this area. Once the cam has been installed properly and turns freely, I have a few parts to finish cleaning for a final assembly, paint, and put back into the truck.

Just learned our truck is CA emissions. Destined for CA, we bought it brand new here in TX with shipping damage hood dents windsheild cracked lowered cost about $8k less than sticker. Any info on what all is different?

different injectors and tuning. cats also different thats all ik

 

[Clutch5sp]

Thanks Fix4dirt... Did notice some extra shtuff on the exhaust system and have replaced the injectors recently. Where we live now doesn't require emissions test. That's why Jimbob cuts off the truck muffler for 500hp or so he wishes. ME....I don't care about performance, All I want is dependability. I'll go to all ends to get that CEL satisfied.

RockAuto parts lookup I did see that a cam must be spec'd for CA or not. Injectors weren't specific. CATs are. Now I wonder about the PCM and if it is doing something weird due to regular ole injectors squirting all up in there. Before the blown head gaskets, the truck ran great for a while smooth peppy & great for wife to shop for sandwich supplies etc... She even got a speeding ticket doing 85 in a 70 !

I did get the cam bearing binding worked out. Polished the cam journals and buffed the 1&2 bearings a smidge 400-600-1000 grit then Polack'd (polished) em good. Started cleaning all the rest of parts last night. Front cover, oil pan, valve covers etc... Can't wait to get the engine back in the truck and hear it run or fly apart.

 

[Clutch5sp]

CHECK ALL YOUR PARTS.... Timing chain kit was complete but the crank gear/sprocket didn't have the keyway in it. The tension plastics part were also different not as long as original. Sprockets didn't look to be the same quality as OEM. My old chain did have some stretch but not bad. The sprockets looked fine. Do I put the old parts back on?

Someone please say it...."you get what you pay for". For $10 more, I could have received the Melling timing chain kit. I did just order a new oil pickup. The old one had a lot of carap in it. Almost looked like a scotchbrite pad shreded in the screen.

I did get all parts cleaned up. At HFT, they sell a cement mixing tub $8 that is about 18"x24"x6" deep. Used some gas brass brush and rags to scrub all the big shtuff clean. Then used same tub cleaned out for a hot water & Dawn & scrub brush to clean. Surprising how a little elbo grease can get such great results.

Two parts left to wonder about. I busted the T handle part of the oil dipstick off getting the EGR undid. I hate that nut. Remind me to slot the dipstick holding tab before it goes back together. Maybe vist the junk yard maybe epoxy will hold handle together. None to be found not even Ford offers em. Also, the block plug in the rear of the camshaft should be replaced. The block plug kit didn't come with the right size. Old one doesn't look bad. Will measure it and search the internet for one.

 

[Clutch5sp]

Today is the day I begin putting the engine back in the truck. Before hand, I have rear seal to get in and core plugs to wippy wap in while block is solidly on floor.

Camshaft position sensor.....How perfect does the tab need to be in the window? Extra perfect-perfect or very dang close to perfect? I ain't paying $70 for the little plastic tool thingie. There is the entire part with the tool for $24 on Amoozon. Anyone want to loan me their tool thingie?

Also have plan B ready in case all my efforts go to pieces after startup. $900 for a reman shortblock nearby in Tyler TX.

 

[Clutch5sp]

Couldn't get the engine stabbed. It was 11pm and I was tired maybe not thinking correctly to figure out what was holding it up. Torq converter studs are very close and center shaft looks like it should just POP into place. Jacked the trans up (that doesn't sound right) trying to maybe get a different angle for alignment. I'm --->this<---- close to having it all come together. Gonna go try again here in a few minutes....

 

[Josh P]

Are we there yet?

 

[Clutch5sp]

Are we there yet?

Hi Josh...Slowly but surely it's coming together. Huge storm last night cut my work time short. My fingers feel like hotdawgs this morning from all the tedious work. The shortblock is bolted in at this time with starter & oil filter adapter underneath to finish then heads, manifolds and all the rest of the shtuff. Everything seems to fight me along the way.

 

[Josh P]

Hi Josh...Slowly but surely it's coming together. Huge storm last night cut my work time short. My fingers feel like hotdawgs this morning from all the tedious work. The shortblock is bolted in at this time with starter & oil filter adapter underneath to finish then heads, manifolds and all the rest of the shtuff. Everything seems to fight me along the way.

You near Dallas? I'm a truck driver working in Dallas for the week. That was the storm of the century. 1st time I've ever seen red colored lightning, and looks like a tornado or two.

 

[Clutch5sp]

You near Dallas? I'm a truck driver working in Dallas for the week. That was the storm of the century. 1st time I've ever seen red colored lightning, and looks like a tornado or two.

I'm way south of Dallas almost to Athens. Was hoping the roof would collapse & kill me dead no longer dealing with this miserable blankity blank blank. Left off last night with a buggered bolt hole (I think) top of starter.

 

[Clutch5sp]

The heads are installed. Everything cept the oil filter adapter is finished for underneath work. Need to spend time today on the rocker arm assemblies getting them all replaced and back on the shafts. The sides of the new rockers are ruff cast and look like they could eat the shaft supports on the sides. The old ones were sorta smooth. I swear every part I've bought has it's own special quirk something wrong or different from original.

 

[Clutch5sp]

Smoothed up the rocker arm sides that touch the shaft supports and they are now ready to go. Will get the exhaust manifolds up and in place held with two temp bolts till the new bolts get here tomorrow. Manifolds were left on because the flange nuts would not come loose even with big impact or cheaters. In the beginning, I ALMOST cut the pipes planning to weld em back together later. Would you believe the manifold studs/nuts all came out? Popped the heads off with no probs.....let's see how it goes back together.

In the Enginetech gasket kit, the intake to fuel rail gasket is different not as thick as the Felpro used before twice. Wonder how far the injectors will stuff in the holes to compensate the gasket thickness indifference? Every step of the way, parts are different or wrong...I keep complaining. Check all your parts guys.

If the exhaust manifolds act like they will go into place without issues, I'll forge ahead with rockers & intake. Also need to go to O O O O'Rippmee's for MC sparkplugs & oil filter maybe air filter too. I have a coupon...yeah!

 

[Clutch5sp]

Last time I'll mention this...almost every part in the Enginetech "kit" had an issue. Every step of the way I had to stop & reorder a gasket. Very frustrating. Of course it's past time to return them per RA....

The thin gasket provided in the "kit" left such a gap between the intake/fuel rail with injectors installed, there was no way this would work. With a new intake to fuel rail gasket (thicker Felpro), I can proceed today maybe get er started up. The only thing that may halt process is the plastic plenum could be all gunked up inside and will need to be cleaned. New MC spark plugs need to be gapped correctly.

 

[Clutch5sp]

Taking a quick break right now. Really close have everything in cept radiator and plastic intake plenum. One valve cover off & no fuel injectors plugged in for a visual on oil psi while turning the engine over. Will also pull the fuel pump fuse. I did fill the oil filter to help prime. When I get oil pressure, then I'll connect everything then check check & double check before the time of GLORY comes and it starts. Next post will be the news....

 

[Josh P]

When I rebuilt the engine in my ranger, I used a tank pressurized by an air compressor that the engine oil was in. I used a hose connected where the oil pressure switch goes. I had 60 psi oil pressure on initial startup.

 

[C420sailor]

I always used an old ‘procedure’ that came from old Honda motorcycle factory service manuals.

The book had you mix up some assembly lube from oil and moly grease. Can’t remember the proportions or the weight of the oil, as I haven’t built an engine in a while. Purpose was to keep things lubed in the second it took for the oil to get up to pressure.

I also would crank the engine with the ignition/fuel off until I built pressure.

I know some guys on the old engines would pull the distributor to spin up the oil pump with an electric drill.

Always good to pre-fill your filters if orientation allows.

Many ways to skin that cat.

 

[Clutch5sp]

Tried & tried...no oil pressure visible at rockers or on gauge. Put batt on charge and hang it up for the night. I was most liberal with assembly lube everywhere but cylinder walls concern me cranking over & over. Could pull the cam sync and try spinning the pump with a drill. May need to try that tomorrow or keep on cranking it over & over.

Maybe it is vapor locked and needs to do a big fert'n ferty fert. Really no way to access oil passages cept thru oil sensor or pull mid bolts on rockers pour some oil down the holes.

See ya'll in the morning

 

[donalds]

Do you have a plastic oil pump pick up tube they tend to crack