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Yeah i installed everything myself with a friend. It's not that hard. Took about 6 hours. I bought everthing at a local 4x4 shop because i know the owner so he hooked me up. but you can get everything at 4wheelparts.
Really?! Well I'm only running TT and shakles. Am I going to need to do a lot of trimming?? Right now I have 31's and I seem to have a lot of room left under there. Did you have much more clearance than this with your 31's? (I know its hard to tell in the pic...)
Yeah. I have 4.5" lift in the front. When the wheels are straight it's fine. It's just when it is at full turn and compressed is when it rubbed. But so far it hasn't rubbed yet after i banged the fender. You'll prob have to trim your fenders.
No i haven't, After the camber adjustments, the driver side seems straight but has slight negative camber about 1 degree but the passenger side is worse. On the passenger side I'm thinking of putting a spacer between the two bolts where the balljoint and the rest of the arm attach. My other option is go to an offroad suspension shop and have them make me new upper control arms that correct the problem. Do u have any suggestions? Once i get a hold of a digital camera i'll post pics and want you guys to tell me if it still looks bad.
is the upper control arm what is bent? or is it the spindle? if it is the control arm ide have it corrected or replaced. i hate to think about your tires getting scallped from being towed-in.
btw- i also had always heard that BFGs were universally priced but hav heard and seen ads with them on sale for lower than normal. i got my 32 x 1150 at/ko for 128 a tire at sears. im kicking myself for not getting the mt
look how they DONT clean themselves out in the north florida goo
i run them at 32 psi around the farm and to work (lots of dirt roads around the house) and 35-37 when going to city or long trip. i have gone to 13psi for 2 days of mild to heavy wheeling. with driving on the highway to the store and whatnot in between. NO PROBLEMS!! my tire guy told me that he would prefer a 7" wheel for 10.50 and 11.50 wide tires and 8" wheel for 12.50. he seemed to think that wide wheels are overated and beside clearance (backspacing) they offer no real benifits.
dude, i am kicking myself for not getting the mt's. im saving now for a set of 33's and 8" wheels. ill probably have to go with a cheaper mt as my wife wasnt so happy with a $600 bill from sears for tires thats sucha good price. where are you gettingthem from?
My Uncle has a small tire store chain here in CA. So I'm getting them at cost to him and he installs them free. You have a 2" BL, dont you? Could you tell me a little more about that? Where you got it.. how much.. and how bad your install was.. I have a feeling I'll have to do a BL on mine in the next month or so.
jcwhitney 79.99 for early model 2" bl. i made my front brackets. rear was fine. was not too bad as i had done a few before. i put JB blaster on the body bolts everyday for a week. broke and removed all of the bolts with no problem on friday night. saturday morning jacked up the front end and did those 2 first (btw these are a pain to get out because you wil see that the bolt comes out the bottom to a certain point and it just starts spinning the body mount, BUT you can jam a pair of vice grips up under it and hold it tight until you remove the bolt, or a big pipe wrench will work) i used a floor jack and a linebar (a big prybar that they used to use on railroad tracks - my dad in law had one - go figure) i put the bar under the body on the frame and made sure it was tight, i then jacked the end of the line bar up to lift the body - i slid the new body spacer under there. once you understand the removal the install is cake. another method i used was 2 floor jacks and 2 2' 4x4s and had a person jack at he same time. this was the easiest, but i didnt have that option when i did the explorer as it was just me. bumpers arent that bad because once you get the spacers in and bolted you feel like you are the man and the bumpers go on like cream cheese.