4L hi-mileage synthetic... opinions?

[Zagnut]

Mobile, STP, Pennz, Valvoline?

Any opinions? I'm leaning towards Mobile 1. Filter recommendation is welcome too.

Thanks!

 

[katsov]

I always use Mobil 1 synthetic every 3-4k miles. Usually use Fram filter, but auto zone sometimes has a good deal on oil change package. $30 for a jug of mobil 1 oil and Mobil 1 filter

 

[tripplec]

DON'T USE HIGH MILLAGE OILS

You don't need them and in most cases they can create problems and not solve any. Especially if all is ok now. Just use a name brand Synthetic oil if you are really concerned and quality oil filter changing often!!!

Castrol, Quakerstate, Pennzoil & Mobil all make a quality oil, both synthetic and dino oils. I prefer these amongst the few others one can find. I don't buy Valvoline due to two costly experiences anymore. I have choices and these are my go to choices I buy when on sale I get the 5L jugs!!

I use WIx oil filter mostly. Pick name brand which is cost effective.

 

[Drewmcg]

I'll (mostly) stay out of the oil debate, but recommend the Motorcraft or Wix filters on these engines. And the Ford recommended interval was upped to 7,500 miles for this engine in '08 (dino or syth). So for gosh sake, if you're paying the premium for synth, you might as well get at least 7,500 miles out of it.

I'm running Costco dino + Motorcraft filters every 5-7 k miles, on a routine basis. I like the idea of running synthetic (esp. Pennzoil, but whatever is on sale) through one interval every year or two to perhaps gain the benefit of some extra cleaning over other oils. I've seen posts on Bob's the Oil Guy suggesting that Pennzoil has more detergents than Mobil 1.

In my Volvo with a Turbo, which is a more difficult oil change, I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance and run it 10-12k miles, with a long-life filter (usually Wix XP). The Mobil 1 Extended Performance is rated to 15k miles, but I don't like that oil for the 4.0L because I think the timing chain guides are more prone to wear in the Cologne 4.0L SOHC. Oils lose their ability to maintain the correct viscosity over time/miles. Cold startup--after oil has drained over night and before the oil heats and thins--is toughest service point for the 4.0L timing cassettes. Also, the tensioners have tiny holes and rely on oil pressure to work correctly. Having done two timing chain repairs on these engines (pulling the engine both times), I'm not eager to do one again. And the Explorer is a lot easier to change the oil on, so I don't mind the more frequent changes. And because conventional oil is so much cheaper (and regular service filters are cheaper, too), the cost per mile is no more expensive for the more frequent change interval on the Ford.

 

[Zagnut]

Thanks guys. Went with Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic and motorcraft filter.

I about pooped a kitten doing the change today. The oil filter was cranked down so tight, it took about 1.5hrs to remove. This was doing it just by crawling under. Also includes running to AutoZone to get a chain wrench.

The other big surprise...the filter the previous idiots had on it was for the '11-'18 3.5L!!! Close to same gasket ID and OD, but not right! Smh... Damn idiots.

All is good and fresh, cel even went off (despite having a p0420 catalyst code...for another day.)

I was surprised how little room there was to change the filter.

 

[Zagnut]

I'll (mostly) stay out of the oil debate, but recommend the Motorcraft or Wix filters on these engines. And the Ford recommended interval was upped to 7,500 miles for this engine in '08 (dino or syth). So for gosh sake, if you're paying the premium for synth, you might as well get at least 7,500 miles out of it.

I'm running Costco dino + Motorcraft filters every 5-7 k miles, on a routine basis. I like the idea of running synthetic (esp. Pennzoil, but whatever is on sale) through one interval every year or two to perhaps gain the benefit of some extra cleaning over other oils. I've seen posts on Bob's the Oil Guy suggesting that Pennzoil has more detergents than Mobil 1.

In my Volvo with a Turbo, which is a more difficult oil change, I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance and run it 10-12k miles, with a long-life filter (usually Wix XP). The Mobil 1 Extended Performance is rated to 15k miles, but I don't like that oil for the 4.0L because I think the timing chain guides are more prone to wear in the Cologne 4.0L SOHC. Oils lose their ability to maintain the correct viscosity over time/miles. Cold startup--after oil has drained over night and before the oil heats and thins--is toughest service point for the 4.0L timing cassette

5-30 is already pretty low vis. I'm not arguing, but that statement seems a little counterintuitive? Wouldn't one want a low vis so it flows better/easier to the tensioners? Believe me, I definitely don't want to deal with the infamous death rattle. At 200k, I think we're doing good.

 

[CDW6212R]

Synthetic oil changed often enough and never low, is the best insurance for the SOHC 4.0 engines, plus a great air filter. Never let an air filter get too dirty, most of the contaminants in oil comes through the filter(not past the rings or valve guides). Try running an engine with no air filter, and new oil, watch how fast the oil turns pitch black.

O'Reilly's had an oil/filter special to get $10 rebate or a gift card, for five quarts and a Wix filter. I'm waiting to see if being on the rewards program gets the gift card sent automatically(they didn't know). The cost was $33 before the $10 back deal.

I prefer either Walmart five quart jugs of Valvoline/Castrol/Pennzoil, or Amsoil at $5 a quart ordered(+S&H).

Run the highest viscosity you can for your climate. 10W-40 or 20W-50 weight would cost an immeasurable amount of fuel mileage, but is better when the engine is running. In very cold temps, 0W is better for starting, no doubt, but above say 40*, no issue. If you are worried with cold temps, put your foot to the floor and crank the starter for 2-3 seconds before letting off the pedal. That builds oil pressure without fuel going to the injectors.

 

[Zagnut]

Try running an engine with no air filter, and new oil, watch how fast the oil turns pitch black.

I know all about that. About 15yrs ago I had a Pontiac Sunfire. Had a custom hi-flow intake on it (a custom 2.5in exhaust and sprayed nitrous...yes, on a Sunfire).

Stupid hi-flow filters do help with some extra O2, but even when oiled a ton more crud gets into the engine.

 

[MNgopher]

What you ran into was a quick lube filter solution. A lot of quick lubes consolidate oil filters down to a smaller number to carry - and as you noted, the gasket size on the smaller filter is compatible with the gasket on the FL820s, so many quick lube places don't carry any FL820s filters and only use the smaller filter. And they have a gorilla tighten them down, but that is a story for another day. I had the same issue on a F150 I bought and couldn't believe the filter I pulled off of it...

In any event, pick a name brand 5w30 oil, and for the filter, Motorcraft or Wix. That will take you a very long time. I presently am using Mobil Super in my '07 (in 5w20 since its a V8), but have used Motorcraft dino, Valvoline Dino, Pennzoil Dino, Quaker State Dino etc... Whatever is on the best sale when I need it. And I change every 5000 miles.

 

[swshawaii]

Pennzoil Platinum® Full Synthetic Motor Oil (5 Quarts) $23.99 + $10 Mail In Rebate

 

[Zagnut]

What you ran into was a quick lube filter solution. A lot of quick lubes consolidate oil filters down to a smaller number to carry - and as you noted, the gasket size on the smaller filter is compatible with the gasket on the FL820s, so many quick lube places don't carry any FL820s filters and only use the smaller filter. And they have a gorilla tighten them down, but that is a story for another day. I had the same issue on a F150 I bought and couldn't believe the filter I pulled off of it...

In any event, pick a name brand 5w30 oil, and for the filter, Motorcraft or Wix. That will take you a very long time. I presently am using Mobil Super in my '07 (in 5w20 since its a V8), but have used Motorcraft dino, Valvoline Dino, Pennzoil Dino, Quaker State Dino etc... Whatever is on the best sale when I need it. And I change every 5000 miles.

I just couldn't believe a smaller capacity filter was installed. I should've taken pics of it...I completely crushed it while trying to take it off. It was ridiculously tight.
I would've put a screwdriver through the side to take it off, but the space was too tight to hammer one through. Damn near pulled my shoulder out of it's socket.
My better half works for an auto parts supplier, so we get good deep discounts on any parts, fluids, etc.

 

[CDW6212R]

Pennzoil Platinum® Full Synthetic Motor Oil (5 Quarts) $23.99 + $10 Mail In Rebate

That's a great deal.

Here's a Valvoline link to Amazon for 5 quarts, $22; https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-5W...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JG2AYVB1GFTN5PZK89QN

 

[tripplec]

i used Pennzoil or Quakerstate most synthetic and sometimes Castrol but all when on sale. Just stay away from any that specify High Mileage Oil. You're looking for trouble there. Also quick lube shops as above you likely getting an oil filter that isn't optimm for you engine but just fits. The was a case where a filter ruptured and took out the engine. The oem voided the warranty because the filter wasn't theirs!! It caused the failure and it was from a quickllube oil change!!

We're using Wix on the Explorer and the V8 and V6 use the same one.

 

[PotatoExplorer]

i used Pennzoil or Quakerstate most synthetic and sometimes Castrol but all when on sale. Just stay away from any that specify High Mileage Oil. You're looking for trouble there. Also quick lube shops as above you likely getting an oil filter that isn't optimm for you engine but just fits. The was a case where a filter ruptured and took out the engine. The oem voided the warranty because the filter wasn't theirs!! It caused the failure and it was from a quickllube oil change!!

We're using Wix on the Explorer and the V8 and V6 use the same one.

What's wrong with high mileage oil? I used varying high mileage synthetic blends for about 100k on my Sable before trading her in.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I wouldn’t bother with blends. There is no standard for them, and synthetics aren’t that much more expensive. High mileage oils typically have additives designed to ‘fix’ problems which can inadvertently cause other issues. If you have a fair service history they just aren’t needed.

 

[Drewmcg]

I have a Volvo S60 2.5L 5-cylinder low-pressure Turbo (2008) with a 185k miles; and a 2002 Ford Explorer 4.0L SOHC V6 with 197k miles. Both take 5w-30.

The Volvo is a bigger PITA to change oil on (lower to the ground; blasted plastic skirt must be removed; non-conventional filters). It also burns more oil. For this reason, I only use full synth in it (typically Mobil 1 Extended Performance), and use a long service interval (and high capacity filter). When it gets low on oil later on in its service interval, I sometimes throw in a quart of conventional oil (since its only got to last, say, 3,000 miles before the next oil change at that point).

Valvoline has a highly rated high mileage full synthetic out now (rated better in protection than the non-high mileage version of same), which I'll use next time I service the Volvo.

With the Ford I stick with quality conventional and 5k service intervals or regular (not high mileage) full synths if I want to stretch the service interval or get some extra cleaning done that cycle.

 

[PotatoExplorer]

I wouldn’t bother with blends. There is no standard for them, and synthetics aren’t that much more expensive. High mileage oils typically have additives designed to ‘fix’ problems which can inadvertently cause other issues. If you have a fair service history they just aren’t needed.

Hmm, that's good to know. I've actually never heard of this before. I dont really know what the service history was on my Explorer soooo... maybe the high mileage stuff is what I need? No leaks of any kind that I can tell as of yet. I've got about 4 oil changes in with this Explorer, all with high mileage Mobile 1 full synthetic with a high mileage Mobile 1 filter (132k). I'm thinking about switching to the high mileage Fram filter just because it has the extra grip texture and the space is tight in there.

I never really cared for blended oils, they were normally cheaper than Motorcraft and full synthetic oils. Those years were more when I had to save every dollar though. Now I can splurge a bit more on my vehicles

 

[Mbrooks420]

If an oil is a ‘blend’ it can be between 1-99%. You’re already paying a premium, might as well kick in a bit more and get the real deal. Fram (oil) filters are notoriously poor. I’d make the one one investment in a filter wrench, or get the filters with the hex on he bottom over anything Fram.

 

[Drewmcg]

If you have the 4.0L SOHC, I'd stick with Wix or Motorcraft filters. Wix makes an "XP' version if you want longer interval change. Both brands have excellent anti-drainback, which is critical for cold startup wear on the timing chains.....

 

[PotatoExplorer]

If an oil is a ‘blend’ it can be between 1-99%. You’re already paying a premium, might as well kick in a bit more and get the real deal. Fram (oil) filters are notoriously poor. I’d make the one one investment in a filter wrench, or get the filters with the hex on he bottom over anything Fram.

Hmm, never had any issues with Fram either? Also used it for 100k miles on my Sable and many other vehicles. Do you have any evidence to direct me towards??