4x2 Front Wheel Bearings........ ?? | Ford Explorer Forums

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4x2 Front Wheel Bearings........ ??

Katmandu

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 3, 2002
Messages
293
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City, State
Troy, Ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Explorer Eddie Bauer
My 98s LF Front wheel bearing is going out. My truck only has around 82k miles on it.

What would make the front wheel bearings wearout so quickly ?? :(
 



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Katmandu said:
My 98s LF Front wheel bearing is going out. My truck only has around 82k miles on it.

What would make the front wheel bearings wearout so quickly ?? :(



82 thousand miles is alot of miles for a front wheel bearing...
 






davidmmm69 said:
82 thousand miles is alot of miles for a front wheel bearing...

You mean.... An EXPLORER wheel bearing right ?? I have lots and lots of vehicles over the last 25 years and this is the 1st to have a wheel bearing go bad.

It actually started making noise at about 60-65k miles on it. I had the front wheel bearings repacked at least twice in that time period as well. Didn't do anything more with it (lack of time and schedule conflicts).

I'm gonna swap both sides out here shortly though.

Just REAL curious as to why it went bad in the 1st place..... ??? :roll:
 






Either the preload was set wrong or it was just a defective bearing. It shouldnt have gone out at 80k miles especially since it had been packed twice. I replaced mine when i did the spindle lift on my 96. They had 120k miles on them and were tight as new.
 






james t said:
Either the preload was set wrong or it was just a defective bearing. It shouldnt have gone out at 80k miles especially since it had been packed twice.
I'll bet your right. :thumbsup:

What is the Pre-load supposed to be set at ?? :confused:
 






Spin the hub/rotor forward and tighten down to "barely tight" while spinning the rotor. We'll say 2 ftlbs is "barely tight", but it doesnt have to be dead on. Then, back the nut off 1/2-3/4 of a turn. Now torque to 20 inch/lbs.
 






james t said:
Spin the hub/rotor forward and tighten down to "barely tight" while spinning the rotor. We'll say 2 ftlbs is "barely tight", but it doesnt have to be dead on. Then, back the nut off 1/2-3/4 of a turn. Now torque to 20 inch/lbs.
Excellent! Thanks! :thumbsup:
 






I agree with James, at some point the bearings were run while too loose or too tight.

Manuals say to tighten them to about 30lbs.ft. while spinning them, and then after loosening them, tighten to about one pound foot. For different vehicles, it may be different, but basically in a range of about 120-150 inchpounds. Using a 1/2" ratchet, that amounts to not much more than the weight of the ratchet itself. You can tighten the bearings tighter by hand than they should be.

New bearings often need to be retightened after being driven for some miles. When tightened, the tire should spin easily, but not continue to spin for a long long time. There should be no large amount of play of the tire. When assembled, pull the top of the tire out, and push the bottom of the tire in. Alternating pressure to check play top to bottom should reveal very little movement. That is a check which should be done at any time that the tire is off of the ground. Good luck,
 






Katmandu said:
You mean.... An EXPLORER wheel bearing right ?? I have lots and lots of vehicles over the last 25 years and this is the 1st to have a wheel bearing go bad.

It actually started making noise at about 60-65k miles on it. I had the front wheel bearings repacked at least twice in that time period as well. Didn't do anything more with it (lack of time and schedule conflicts).

I'm gonna swap both sides out here shortly though.

Just REAL curious as to why it went bad in the 1st place..... ??? :roll:


a;lso could be too tight or could be from going off road or harsh conditions.. there are many many things that can cause it,..
 






james t said:
Spin the hub/rotor forward and tighten down to "barely tight" while spinning the rotor. We'll say 2 ftlbs is "barely tight", but it doesnt have to be dead on. Then, back the nut off 1/2-3/4 of a turn. Now torque to 20 inch/lbs.

I tired that and on 35's she will chew them up like candy. What I do is tighten to about 40 ft lbs then back off about 3/4 of a turn or so until she has about 12-16 in/lbs of rolling resistance (with no brake hardware on).

Just got some 15x10s on yesterday so we will see how much stress they can take.
 






Oh out of curiosity did they put a new wheel seal back in when they repacked the bearings? I ran without one on one side (trail fix) and it actually lasted no problem for about 500 miles
 






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