5r55e: To replace or to keep picking at it, that is the question. | Ford Explorer Forums

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5r55e: To replace or to keep picking at it, that is the question.

ThatGuyJohn

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Ford Explorer
Vehicle: 1997 Ford Explorer 2WD
Motor: 4.0 V6 SOHC
Trans: 5r55e

Vehicle purchased for $900, with known transmission "issues".
I was getting the 2-3 shift flare horribly and it will not go into final gear at all, except on 2 or three occasions under heavy acceleration. I think it finally took the big dump. Now it will go about 300 yards before I have to shut her down and let her sit about an hour before I can go another 300 yards. So now it just sits. I don't want to chance damaging the motor, it runs so smooth and feels like it has plenty of life left in it.

Here is what I have done and have into it so far.

So far I racked up a $129 Trans Shop bill. (Towing and so called Diagnostic)
Was able to drive it home from the shop after telling me it needed a new trans.
$30 approx. for filter and valve body gaskets.

Dropped the pan, had quite a bit of metallic speckles in the pan and the magnet was loaded with it as well. Fluid.. burnt to hell.
Dropped the Valve body and of course on top of the separator plate there was a good bit of metallic speckles on top of it. Once I got the separator plate off I found that there was a good bit of metallic speckles in the passage ways along with one section in particular that was "packed with" what I would call metallic shavings. I cleaned all of it out being extremely careful not to lose, misplace or damage anything.
It was during the cleaning process I happen to notice that the mounting bracket for the TCC solenoid was broken. How I didn't notice while taking the VB down.. I don't know.
It was way late at night.. or way early in the morning when I decided to button it all back up to take a few days to decide what to do.

Do I keep picking at it changing parts as I find them broken or trying to use the process of elimination. I have been told that the "shavings" are likely from the bands. So I would end up trying to change those as well.

Another option:
I have found a Pick-N-Pull sort of close by where I can pull a transmission for $125 / approx. $150 with torque converter. Or I can pull solenoids at $20 a pop. Or pull a complete VB for $75. All with the chance of swapping parts and have money and time wasted, if I were even able to find the trans to pull or pull parts from, and still end up with a bad trans.

[Adding To] Also, they have a dollar a day warranty. Where I can pay for a warranty upfront and bring back to swap, but no cash back only credit. So for 30 bucks I get a month the see if the trans is any good and so on.

So the final question:
To replace or keep picking at it?
I am sort of leaning towards just replacing it, but at the same time it would give me a few more gray hairs if I did the swap and ended up with a bad trans.
If there is a chance I can get her road worthy again for under $300 plus a set of tires and other random suspension and steering components over the next few months, I think this could be one of those vehicles I would keep for years, til the wheels fall off!

[Thanks]
I wanted to add to and go ahead and thank Glacier and Brooklyn for all of their helpful instructions on this particular Transmission. I've done quite a few swaps, but never had the confidence to crack the bottom end of a trans open until I read their posts.
So Thank You Brooklyn & Glacier
 



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That's pretty cheap for a trans at the pick and pull. I would take that option and get a weeks warrenty on it, you will know after a week if it is bads. Take the TC with the new trans as well.
 






I second that, swap it.
 






That's pretty cheap for a trans at the pick and pull. I would take that option and get a weeks warrenty on it, you will know after a week if it is bads. Take the TC with the new trans as well.

After sleeping on it:
I did decide that doing a swap would be the best option.
Doing more reading, I see that the best thing to do is also to replace lines and the radiator to make sure I don't contaminate the new \ used trans. At the same pick and pull I can get a radiator for under $40 and the lines for just a few more bucks. So there is no reason not to replace those as well.

Now that I have decided to try and pull a used trans and torque converter...
Other than , of course, getting a matching trans what else should I be looking at on the used trans before deciding to pull it. The obvious is to drop the pan to check the condition of the fluid and to see how much if any shavings are present. Checking the radiator to make sure it doesn't have any leaks, external or internal trans to coolant.

Being that the Explorer is a Vin Code "E", which indicates the 5r55e trans, what year and model range would be a safe bet in finding a matching trans?
I will be calling a Ford dealership tomorrow morning to try and get a list from them as well.

If I fail to find a matching 5r55e what, if any, other trans will bolt up and match the harness, computer, linkage and drive shaft. Depending on need, I could end up swapping drive shaft and linkage as well. But only if needed.

After purchase of the trans:
Should I crack open the bottom end, inspect thoroughly, adjust the bands, service the the VB or should I keep my paws off.. til I know for sure.."don't touch it if ain't broken" rule?

I work at a muffler shop, so tools and lift are not an issue. I am really looking forward to getting her on the road so I can re-work the pipes and get rid of that dual in single out muffler and go true dual.
 






Don't touch it, if it doesn't work they may say you caused the problem. Maybe a new front pump seal but that's all. If it is a good trans it will work right off, drive it some and when you are satisfied that it is all right, then drop the pan, change the filter, check the valve body bolts for proper torque, and adjust the bands, don't back the adjusting bolt out or the strut inside will drop out of position, just loosen the lock nut, then adjust.
As for the rad and lines there is a spray cleaner to clean them out use liberally and blow out with compressed air. Your choice.
The 97 has 2 sensors on the side of the case newer ones only have one, according to a ford bulletin the front sensor can be eliminated by cutting the wire plug off your wiring and splicing the 2 wires together. This lets you use a newer trans, but don't get one from 2001 up that has 3 sensors on the side.
 






PopRichie77,
Thanks for the tip on the cleaner. Found a little cleaner kit at Autozone that also includes an inline filter, I will shop around for different kits. That will be handy and save me a couple of hours of work. Long as the lines and cooler aren't clogged up too bad.
Thanks for the tip on the sensors as well, noted.

[Adding Question about front seal]

Am I looking at the right seal HERE?
 






Transmission Types and Condition

You want a Transmission off a 2wd 97 Explorer. 2wd because the speed sensor is located on the tranny, unlike the 4wd models with the speed sensor located on the transfer case. Also so it can take a drive shaft directly instead of mating up to a transfer case. People have a lot of issues trying to swap their transmissions with other year models so it would be best to stick with a 97 unless you want a headache trying to make it work, for instance a 98 5R55e has some sensors deleted that the 97 PCM needs to shift. Even then I would ensure all electrical plugs matched.

If you are unable to find exactly what you are looking for I would try looking somewhere else other than trying to make another year model tranny work on your truck.

At the Pick and Pull look the tranny over for leaks comming from the front or rear, a dry pan bottom usually indicates that it hasn't been leaking any ATF. Just pull off a tranny cooler line and that will reveal what sort of condition the ATF is in.

For the warranty period leave the tranny "as is" even with the same tranny fluid in it if you can, just top it up once installed, so you know exactly how the tranny was performing prior to it ending up in the pick and pull. If your happy with it after the warrenty period, then change the fluid with fully synthetic Mercon V ATF, filter and pan gasket then you will have a happy transmission for a long time to come.

Make sure you really give it a workout during the warrenty period. Also, pay particular attention to smoothness during "in town" driving. Listen for any whining as your getting it up to speed and ensure their is no TC shudder.
 






Sedition is correct a 97 trans would be the best choice. Here is a copy of the Ford service bulletin that says the front sensor is not needed, you decide.
Article No.
97-15-28
07/21/97
TRANSMISSION - 5R55E - OVERDRIVE DRUM SPEED SENSOR DELETED -SERVICE TIP.
LIGHT TRUCK:
1997 AEROSTAR, EXPLORER, RANGER
ISSUE:
The Overdrive Drum Speed (ODS) sensor has been deleted as a running change. This may cause the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to receive stray
signals from the non functional ODS sensor that may affect the operation of the transmission.
ACTION:
Disconnect the ODS sensor connector, cut off the connector end, and splice the wires together. This should reduce the possibility of stray signals
affecting the operation of the transmission. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the ODS sensor connector from the sensor.
2. Cut off the connector end.
3. Splice, and solder the two (2) wires together.
4. Shrink wrap the wires, and secure the wires to the harness. For proper wire splicing techniques, refer to the Augat Connector Repair Kit Manual.
5. Leave the sensor installed if using the original case. New service cases will not have an ODS sensor hole in the case.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
F77Z-7005-DD Transmission case
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper WarranW Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
971528A Eliminate Overdrive Drum 0.3 Hr.
Speed (ODS) Sensor
Connector As Outlined
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
7005 12
OASIS CODES: 501000, 502000, 504000
 






Thanks again.

What are you using as reference for the service bulletins. My pan had an orange sticker with TSB# 96-18 , but I am unable to find a reference for it.

I have decided to not touch anything on the trans I pull until needed. Even when the trans checks out good I think I am going to run it for a month or so then order a rebuilt VB with shift kit already installed in order to avoid myself from goofing anything up.

I am going to hold off til next weekend to go to the pick and pull in order to make myself a list of other things to check out while I am there and to let my mind "Woosah" for a bit, being as though it is roughly about a 40 mile drive I might as well make full use of the trip.

Roger that on finding a precise year \ model match.

After all is said and done, when I re-work the exhaust I am going to try and find a way to get those catalytic converters away from the bottom end of the transmission. (Just for good measure) I am sure that those converters giving the transmission a hug don't help the life of it any. Although there isn't much space to work with under there.
 












Just got off the phone with a ford dealership and they verified the TSB about deleting the ODS.
They are having someone else give me a call back later today or tomorrow for more information. Sounds like the guy they are having call me back (Scott) is their "Experienced Odd Job Guy", being as though the woman I spoke too gave me a few "hmm" and "uhhh" and said "You might need to talk to Scott".. after a couple questions I asked. Hopefully he is a hands on guy that will understand my questions and know where to find info.

[Update: Talked to "Scott"]
He didn't really have any additional information, but told me the pick and pull should have the proper lists for year \ model compatibility.
Next weekend, if this pick and pull has an organised means of referencing this stuff I will see if they will make copies of the Ford stuff for me to post here in the forum. From talking to others in the area about this place, it sounds like a bunch of "Good Ol' Boys" working there. So with any luck I may return from there educated and able to share.
 












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