6R60 Torque Converter Lockup/1-2 Shift Quality Issues

[94Eddie]

These things come down to the luck of the draw. Overall, the 6R60/80 transmissions are very reliable. Especially if maintained well and not by Ford's recommendations. Sometimes it is best to cut bait and move on. When I went looking for a 4th gen I figured it was best to buy a 2010 V8 because the last year of a series seems to be the most reliable due to tweaks done each model year. I never buy the first year of a new model or generation. It took Ford four years just to resolve the spark plug issue in the 4.6L 3V engines. I guess time will tell if my strategy pays off.

 

[rustylugnut]

These things come down to the luck of the draw. Overall, the 6R60/80 transmissions are very reliable. Especially if maintained well and not by Ford's recommendations. Sometimes it is best to cut bait and move on. When I went looking for a 4th gen I figured it was best to buy a 2010 V8 because the last year of a series seems to be the most reliable due to tweaks done each model year. I never buy the first year of a new model or generation. It took Ford four years just to resolve the spark plug issue in the 4.6L 3V engines. I guess time will tell if my strategy pays off.

Yes, I've heard nothing but good things about the 6R60/80 transmission and I love the way it operates when it is functioning correctly. These things happen though.
My Mountaineer seems like it was maintained well, but after 180k miles something in the transmission has gone awry.
Enjoy your 2010. The 4.6 3v/6R60 is a great combination. Very refined, smooth, quiet, and powerful.

 

[94Eddie]

One of the reasons I specifically targeted the 2010 models (or the 2009 models if I couldn't find a good 2010) is they came with the 6R80 transmissions. They are a slightly beefier version with a higher torque rating. This was just another way I could hedge my bet on buying a 4th gen. I agree the 6R60/80 operates much smoother than the 5R55 and returns much better gas mileage too. If mine can make it to near 200k miles without a major failure then I will be satisfied. I drive about 8k-10k miles a year so this will give me 10+ years of driving if I decide to keep it this long. I wish you luck in finding a vehicle that serves you well.

 

[Aclem1687]

Got it started today. Most of the time the starter relay won't even click when you turn the key, sometimes it'll crank for a second then cut out, but I got lucky once and it cranked long enough to turn over. Transmission seems to behave the same as it did with the old tcm. Still no 1st, but it'll shift through the rest of the gears fine. Perfectly drivable.
Intermittent CEL with no pcm or tcm codes. Scanner seems to be reliably communicating with the tcm. Double checked the tcm connector, and it's fully seated. No issue with the gear lever position sensor either.
I tried starting it with the TCM unplugged and got the same no crank no click situation. Should it crank with the TCM unplugged? I'd think so.

I know this post is over 2 years old, but it gave literally gave me chill bumps to read it. My name is Alex Clement, I am a Ford Senior Master technician in Georgia. I recently had a guy bring me a 2006 Ford Explorer V8 AWD that I diagnosed as a bad TCM due to no communication with the TCM. I ordered a lead frame with TCM from an Ebay vendor and installed it. Communication was restored and it changed gears now, as before I replaced the TCM it only had one forward gear and reverse. During the test drive I noticed a surge but I also noticed a misfire when it was a full operating temperature under load. Also I had a check engine light with no stored DTC's. I went after the misfire and replaced all spark plugs with Motorcraft plugs and I replaced 4 ignition coils with Motorcraft coils. The misfire was cured but the surge remained. So I contacted the Ebay vendor and requested another lead frame with TCM, as soon as I replaced the TCM when I tried to start it, the starter would engage for just a second and then it would disengage and wouldn't engage again unless I cycled the ignition off and back on. That worked a few times and then it wouldn't at all most of the time. I took the pan back off thinking I did something but I couldn't find anything. I replaced the keys but the problem was either the PCM or the IPC. I suspect it is the IPC due to multiple warning lights that will one at a time illuminate while driving but when you check the data list while the concern is present the module will say "Warning Lamp Requested = No". I have had the valve body apart 3X , installed a Transgo shift improvement kit with a redesigned pressure regulator valve and a redesigned TCC Control Valve, and I installed a Sonnax zip kit and a few times I thought I had it fixed only to start again the next day. Currently I have the transmission out and completely disassembled. I don't see anything wrong at all inside the unit. All clutches look brand new. Im going to install a new Ford OEM torque converter and hopefully it will be good. I couldn't believe your post, if anybody in this world feels your pain I do brother!!!