8.8 Explorer Rear End Mods?

[Gjeepy]

I'm interested in Explorers from 95-01, the rear axle on these is the Ford 8.8 with Disc Brakes. I know I can find an Explorer w/4.10 and a limited slip stock.

Question: What mods are people making to this rear axle to 'wheel it besides ratio changes? The 8.8 is a C-clip design. Is anyone replacing the 31 spline 1.32" shafts with aftermarket stuff, or are they plenty strong. Is anyone running a full-float kit?

For those that 'wheel pretty hard are you running lockers? How does the rear end hold up? Stories, anecdotes, rumors, theories?

What is the max tire size this axle can supposedly support before breakage becomes an issue?

 

[Stic-o]

They are pretty strong. Some say just as strong as a 9"

People run 35's,36's and 37's with no problems as well as lockers.

You will not here to many stories of people brakeing the 8.8.

 

[KNanthrup]

They're pretty damn strong as it is from what I've learned. For offroad use you'll probably want to change to a locker depending on what your budget allows. C-clip eliminators are always a good idea but may be un-necessary unless you are really running some huge tires with torque behind them. How big of tires are you planning on running? There are sweet aftermarket axles available but that all depends on your budget. I would probably weld the axle tubes where they meet the housing though for offroad use, I believe they're just stamped and pinned in. I'm not sure how the yoke for the jeep's look, but you may either try converting to the new style pinion yoke using the piece off of the explorer driveshaft or you can order a conversion pinion yoke from M.O.R.E.. Also check out THIS page for useful jeep swap info. I'm using the rear for drag racing but I haven't gotten out to give it the abuse yet. It will be interesting to see what happens.

 

[the_tool_man]

Hi Gjeepy:

I have more experience with Mustangs than Explorers, but the 8.8 can handle 500hp with drag radials all day long. Most serious racers upgrade to 31 spline axles (from stock Mustang 28 spline), but the Explorer already comes with those. At higher power levels, common sense (and rules) dictate taking other measures, like C-clip eliminators and such.

Keep in mind that the same 8.8 is also used in F-150's. I've personally seen only one failure of an 8.8 carrier. It was in an F-150 4x4 with a factory Traction Lock unit. The guy used 4x4 low to tow a trailer weighing about 23,000 lb up a steep incline at about 5 mph. The carrier split in half and ground into the end of the pinion before it finally jammed. Thankfully, he got to the top of the hill before it failed completely. If it took such a massive overload to break one, I'd say it's pretty strong.

Regards,
John.

 

[Creager]

Yukon makes replacement axles for the 8.8

There are plently of other companies that do to, but like what everyone else said... ya dont need to do much to these axles.

a 9" is only better because of clearence and the fact its 35 spline, and it doesnt use c-clips =)

 

[410Fortune]

the 9" has an additional support bearing for the axle shafts as well as I understand it.

All Explorer's are 31 spline
after 95 they are all disc brake

The most common problem I have seen with the 8.8 is the pinion bearing and seal go out after many miles, usually due to drivetrain vibrations. You can upgrade the pinion on these axles I believe as well.

They are stout, they are rated stronger then a D44 and are considered reliable as axles come.

 

[Creager]

Dana 44's are "fire breathing"

that makes the 8.8 "magma spewing"

haha

 

[jwrezz]

I have some questions regarding this post. I'm going to regear soon, and want to do the right thing.
What does "full float" mean? From what I'm reading does it have to do w/ elminating the C clips?

What are the c clips used for, and why would one want to eliminate them?

Regarding the problems w/ the pinion and it's bearing and seal, when I regear, should I get some thing "better than stock?" Any recommendations?

Will I be able to add a cheap (non selective, air or electric) locker and drive on the highway every day?

thanx all,

 

[Creager]

I have some questions regarding this post. I'm going to regear soon, and want to do the right thing.
What does "full float" mean? From what I'm reading does it have to do w/ elminating the C clips?

Yes it has to do with eliminating the C-clips

and you dont have to elimante them to have bigger gears. they use a Cross pin, and if you go 4.56 or bigger with the stock open carrier case then you are going to need a knotched cross pin.

What are the c clips used for, and why would one want to eliminate them?

The C-Clips do multible things. One being they actually hold the axle in place from going in and out; so you cant pull the axle(s) out and you cant push them in. You would want to eliminate them so you could fit bigger gears without having to grind down your ring gear or the cross pin

Regarding the problems w/ the pinion and it's bearing and seal, when I regear, should I get some thing "better than stock?" Any recommendations?

i would just get Timken Bearings and seal for it. It should be fine... aslong as your driveshaft isnt vibrating out of control you should be alright. I ran 170k miles before i re-geared and never had a problem with the pinion seal.

Will I be able to add a cheap (non selective, air or electric) locker and drive on the highway every day?

That kind of confused me... Non-selective air or electric locker? if its non-selective then it doesnt need air lines or eletrical wiring? A detriot locker locks when you hit the gas (or put torque down to the wheels. A ARB locker (which is selectable with air) works like an open differential when its not locked. If you only go wheeling occationally like me then you might want to look into a Limited slip like a true-trac or Auburn gear. preferably True-trac since it doesnt wear-out... then you got the 'lunchbox lockers' which are cheap and pretty effective.


i hope i was able to help you.

 

[jwrezz]

That kind of confused me... Non-selective air or electric locker? if its non-selective then it doesnt need air lines or eletrical wiring? A detriot locker locks when you hit the gas (or put torque down to the wheels. A ARB locker (which is selectable with air) works like an open differential when its not locked. If you only go wheeling occationally like me then you might want to look into a Limited slip like a true-trac or Auburn gear. preferably True-trac since it doesnt wear-out... then you got the 'lunchbox lockers' which are cheap and pretty effective.


i hope i was able to help you.

Yeah, i worded that kinda poorly. What I meant was:
Would running "lunch box" lockers regularly, be hard if I do a lot of highway driving? I really don't have the money for an air-locker, or E-Locker, but I'd really like to have some kind of locker vs. a L/S diff. I wheel enough to notice the limitations of a L/S. I know that lunchbox lockers make some clicks when you go around turns, but if you're not on the gas /applying torque to the wheels, do they function as an open diff? Like if I were to lift off the gas while going thru a turn, would I not feel or hear the locker?

Also regarding the c-clip thing. When I regear, I'm going to 4.10's. I could then keep the c-clip axles, get new ring and pinion, as well as new bearings and seals, and that would work? And just to make sure I understand this. C-clips go around the end of the axle, and that holds the axle in place. The other way of holding them in place is by having pins that go thru the axles. Is this what is known as a "full float"? Now I'm thinking that full float means that nothing is holding the axles from sliding in and out.

Any way thanx so much for all your help, I learned a lot!

 

[410Fortune]

You will want to order the ring and pinion ear, and the master install kit.

Some lockers are locked all the time, some only lock when a wheel slips.
Street manners vary depending on which unit you choose, basically the more you spend the better you are going to get. A detroit full gearless locker is considered one of the best locking and unlocking units, but they run upwards of $600.

A full floating rear axle would have hubs similar to the front axle, allowing you to engadge or disengadge all 4 wheels, sending power to the ones with traction.
There were a couple of kits on the market for the 8.8 to convert to full floating but the demand was low and I dont think they are available anymore.

Full floater could also mean something to do with how the axhe shaft is mounted and supported with bearings, but I dont remember, I have typically heard a full floating rear axle refered to as having hubs, in 4x4 circles

 

[jwrezz]

http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0112or_axle/

good link, and explained every thing very clearly

 

[Creager]

hrmm ive never heard of putting a hub assembly type deal for full floating... so i dunno there...

i would imagin it would be like what you said with how the axle is mounted and supported with bearings.

 

[jwrezz]

That's exactly what it is, a hub assy. on the rear axle. Check that site:

http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0112or_axle/