93 Ex overheating

[Watchman]

Yesterday, noticed coolant bottle was empty and level was down in radiator - I topped it off while running. I then drove it about a mile and the temp gauge almost pegged. Then it went to the normal range about 10 o clock position. I turned around and came back and parked it and heard the bottle bubbling over. This morning the bottle was empty. I topped it off again after starting it. The same issue above repeated itself.

So, here are the symptoms: 1. Upper radiator hose is hot, lower is not. 2. After temp gauge is in normal - turned on heater and fan and air is cool - not even warm. 3. White smoke coming from exhaust - but stops after driving a while.

Any suggestions ?

 

[Roadrunner777]

White smoke is classically water getting into the cylinders. Head gasket, cracked head, that kind of thing. The fact that the engine went from cold to pegged hot in one mile supports this as well. If you are loosing coolant without apparent leaks, then that's the third strike.

In addition to this problem, you may have a clogged radiator, and this, along with driving it until the temp is pegged may be the root cause of the coolant leak into the cylinders.

 

[Watchman]

777- The strange thing is that this just happened. I had no coolant losses, and I checked the bottle everytime before I drove it. Also, before I took it out on the short drive yesterday, it was already warmed up. The temp gauge ran up on me during the drive, then went to normal. So, I pulled over and the white smoke had stopped. All was running fine. So, I turned around and went back home. It was still running fine - no white smoke. But, like you said, the coolant has to go somewhere. Should I look into clogged radiator ? Would that explain the upper hose hot and the lower hose cool ?

 

[Roadrunner777]

Let's put the white smoke aside for a minute. Another possibility was that the coolant was really low to start with and now you are dealing with burping out the air. This can be difficult, and there are many threads describing novel solutions to getting all the air out.

Just because it is cheap, easy and kind of fits the symptoms, I would keep filling that reservour, but don't let it overheat. Just start out, fill the radiator and reservour to the top, and let it get up to running temp. Then shut it down and let it cool off. Repeat until it stabilizes. Make sure the heat is on when you do this. (yeah, heater on in summer in Virginia... I spent some time in Danville, it's gonna get hot in that cab!)

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[FR-425]

Note:

Filling the reservoir does not fill the radiator.

Coolant in the reservoir is not a good indicator of the level in the radiator.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Very true, I could have stressed that fact more. You should let the engine cool down completely (lest you be burned opening the radiator cap) and fill the radiator to the brim, reservoir maybe midway.

I made an assumption earlier and upon re-reading, I would like clarification: Did you notice the white smoke before you noticed the low coolant?

 

[Watchman]

The vehicle is not run very often. Maybe once a week for a few miles. Last Sunday morning I opened the hood to check the fluids (it had been a week since it was used) - I check it just out of old habit - I noticed the overflow bottle was empty. So, I opened the radiator cap and it was down about two inches. So, I filled the radiator with about a pint of coolant mixture (50-50) and then started the engine and proceeded to let it warm up and topping the bottle to about 1/3. . In a couple of minutes I looked at the back of the vehicle - THEN I noticed the white smoke - it seemed like steam - not a huge cloud - but a steady stream - then I took it for a short drive like I said - about one mile and then the temp gauge went up high - then came back down to normal (N). So, I turned around and came back. It ran and sounded fine - but When I parked it and turned it off then I heard the overflow bottle sound like a beehive - it was boiling - upper hose was hot. It needed to have the oil changed so I changed the oil (it had been 5-6 months and about 3K miles since the last change). The on Monday, same issue as I mentioned above. So, I haven't driven since. The old oil didn't seem to have any milky color or water in it - I checked the forum here on checking the oil color, etc
Well today I checked the oil level, and the oil drips off the stick - I put a paper towel to the end of the dipstick and the fluid soaked up like a sponge. I think the issue is either the head is cracked or the head gasket is blown.

I need some input here - the vehicle has 320K on it - I had all the engine seals (head gasket - head looked good per shop, timing cover, intake , etc) replaced about 3 1/2 years/35K miles ago. It was my main trans until end of 2011. It then was just parked -used only 3-4 times/month.

Two months ago I had the cam position sensor (what they call the oil drive)replaced by a different shop and the mechanic had to remove the upper air intake to access the cam position sensor which is in the back of the engine nest to the firewall . Is it possible that in doing this something could have happened ??? - I don't think it did - this shop has a very good reputation - just looking for possibilities here - sorry for the long story. Please advise. Thanks for everybody's input.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Ok, I'm going to attribute the white smoke to condensation, since is driven infrequently and for short distances. Get the air out of the cooling system, I think you are ok.

 

[Watchman]

I took the vehicle to a local shop on Friday and two mechanics looked at it. The radiator overheated and blew coolant right out. The engine was also missing - Sorry, I forgot to mention that above as one on the symptoms, as well as it devoured almost a 1/2 gal of fluid when I went to check the fluid level in the radiator before I took it to the shop. - it stops shuddering after a while. Anyway, they both agreed that there is either a cracked head or head gasket and the only way to determine the exact issue is to tear down the engine and have the head tested. One of the mechanics had 17 years exp as a Ford dealer service mechanic.

At this point I haven't decided what to do. I appreciate the counsel above. Money is tight right now so engine replacement or major work is out of the question.

 

[Watchman]

Roadrunner777 - Should I give the Bar's Leaks Professional Carbon Fiber Block Seal Head Gasket a try at fixing this ? Or another type of sealant ?

 

[surf]

I think it would be worth a shot. You do not have much to lose at this point. I have used Bars Leak in the past with good results but I just had a lower intake manifold leak.

 

[Watchman]

I don't know - I have seen a lot of postings about the dangers of these sealants - Do you need to flush the coolant system first ?

The mechanics I talked to said there was no test you could do to see if in fact you have a leaking head gasket or cracked head. After reading on this site - it looks like there is. I am trying to look at the important steps I should take and which one I should do first.

 

[Roadrunner777]

I have seen sealants work at least temporarily, where there is a leak to the outside. But, a leak between the coolant and a cylinder is 10 times more pressure. I don't think it will help, to be frank.

If money does not permit major repairs, I'm afraid I can only recommend that you store the truck until you have the means, or let it go. By the way, the cost of repair may come pretty close to buying another Explorer... something to keep in mind. At least then you end up with a parts donor.

I'm sorry, if I had a bottle that fixed head gaskets, I would be a rich man. Best of luck with your decision.

 

[cloaked_chaos]

I highly recommend AGAINST using those type of products. I had to change a cracked head in an explorer I recently purchased. The previous owner thought it was a bad gasket so they used some sort of stop leak product. This only make the problem MUCH worse because it completely filled in the holes in the head gasket where the coolant flows through it. This made the engine run even hotter and make the crack worse.

Not only that, but it contaminated the ENTIRE cooling system and coated it with crap.

 

[Watchman]

Hey Cloaked - is there a pressure test that could be used here to check this out before I start to think replacement vehicle ? This problem just happened. The vehicle has a lot of power. I have to drive up a steep hill in my neighborhood and it has no problem. I had the cam pos sensor changed 2-3 months ago and the shop removed the upper intake to get at since it is against the firewall. Is it possble soemthing happened here during this repair ?

 

[cloaked_chaos]

If they only removed the upper intake, probably not related. Pull your spark plugs and look for one that is abnormally clean. If you have a bore-hole camera put it in through the spark plug hole to see if the pistons are abnormally clean.

I was able to complete my repair for under $100, but that was with using a junk yard 93TM head, doing all the labor myself, and cutting many corners that I would never do if this were a daily driver.

 

[Watchman]

I was wondering if a clogged heater core be causing the issues after reading some more on this forum ?
But, if that doesn't work, I have decided that I am going to tear down the engine and take a look at the heads, and then take them to a local machine shop to see if there is a cracked head. I have some tools and just need the torx bits for the heads. I'm going to take 4th of July week off and look at this.

Any help here is appreciated.

 

[Watchman]

Ok - I've checked the spark plugs and #2 and #6 are wet (droplets), with #6 being the most wet. So I have started engine teardown.

1. Removed battery
2. Removed black air pipe into throttle body
3. Removed or set aside EGR, etc from drivers side over valve cover.
4. Removed upper air intake - then various components, marked vacuum lines.
5. Removed alternator, tensioner, set aside harnesses
6. Removed valve covers
STOP - milky oil and water mix (on driver's side) inside of cover - water obvious on lifters and rocker arms also on driver side.

Tired at this point - sprayed PB blaster on exh manifold bolts.

Next Step - Remove lower air intake - remove tires and splash shields to access exh manifold bolts.

QUESTION - Do I need to removed rocker arm assys from head before removing heads ??? Please HELP here. This looks very complicated to remove and then re-assy. I'm hoping heads are ok and just need head gaskets - but whatever - I'm going to finish this job. I bought this brand new and it's been a faithful truck.
I hope to get the heads off this week so I can get them to a shop to check cracks/warpage.

NEED HELP HERE GUYS !!! ?? I have taken pictures and notes - but need some advice.

Thank you for your input and advice !!!

 

[cloaked_chaos]

The rocker arm assemblies are very easy to remove.

 

[Watchman]

But is it necessary to remove, or can the whole assy be taken to a machine shop to check. Also - need soome advice for removing the exhaust manifold bolts, for access - tricks for removing etc. Thank s for the help !