93 exploder nightmare.

[cmaggard]

forgive me if this isn't enough info.im new to this page and forums in general, I bought a 93 explorer,4.0 4x4 electric case,auto hubs, for a mud/woods truck strictly. ive had numerous issues as far as the truck running,ive eliminated the cruise control,ac,and all unnessicary things for mud, as far as motor and tranny and drive train all stock besides 33 inch tires and no exaust from cats back. it is running extremely rich,butfires up with the first bump of the key and will idle fine all day long,but as soon as you go to mash on the gas to idle up it chokes out and dies,ive heard a maf sesor could do this,but ive searched and do not see where one was ever on my truck or unplugged, al other sensors are plugged in and vaccum lines are capped for unused ac and cruise, just replaced line going to fuel regulator and new fuel pump and filter. this things driving me crazy.please help.

 

[vq5speed]

I had similar issue but my motor didn't cut out it just stumbled when you throttled it. A new Throttle Postion Sensor fixed the issue. I would look into that its $30.00 at AutoZone

 

[cmaggard]

mine stubles really bad and wont go but up to about maybe 1600 rpms then if I feather it I can get to 2000,antyhing above 2 it runs like a raped date,just when you put it into drive it idles down and wont let you idle up due to the load and having to get the rpms back up. its really frustrating. ill buy the sensor tmrrw and see what happens

 

[Flip4ford]

You could check your fuel pressure-- this will tell you if your fuel pressure regulator is good. You might want to make sure you have a goos O@ sensor as well.

The maf is in the air intake path.

 

[mr cribb]

check to see if the air intake tube is cracked. They like to crack in the accordion section (folds).

Sometimes this will cause idle issues like you are describing. Now this doesn't mean I am correct. It is just something to look at.

Do you have an engine light on? If so look in the stock 91-94 section at the stickies, and there is instructions on how to retrieve engine codes.

 

[cmaggard]

that's the part that doesn't make since to me.no cel. and my intake is a snorkel.straight through pvc pipe through the hood to roofline,no kinds of sensors in that tube either

 

[vq5speed]

mine stubles really bad and wont go but up to about maybe 1600 rpms then if I feather it I can get to 2000,antyhing above 2 it runs like a raped date,just when you put it into drive it idles down and wont let you idle up due to the load and having to get the rpms back up. its really frustrating. ill buy the sensor tmrrw and see what happens

This is exactly what mine did. You could feather the throttle up to 1500 but if you pushed the throttle hard it stumble and pulsute if you held the throttle down. I chaned my filter first and it helped some I was able to rev to about 3K before it stumbled. So my filter was very dirty but it was not the sole issue. You could drive it if you throttle slowly and kept RPM below 3K. But if you tried to accelerate fast it cough and stumble. New TPS fixed my stumbling.

 

[swshawaii]

IAC valve checked?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84220

 

[vq5speed]

IAC only controls idling his motor idles fine like mine did.

 

[98exploding]

Check ur shift solenoids

 

[cmaggard]

sorry I hadn't replied sooner.trans is fine,just got back from the tranny shop for total rebuild after I blew the front seal out from overheating,and now it has dual tranny coolers and electric fan on coolers so that's not the issue,the idle control valve(plunger lokin deal horizontal on the air manifold) ive taken orr and cleaned and checked and it idles fine all day,its like you said,when I try to rev up fast or put it into gear and try to idle up quickly it stumbes and wants to die out,but once I get it reved up above 2k,it runs fine,as long as I keep my foot into it and keep it abobve 2k.im going to get the tps tmrrw and see what happens and keep you guys posted. any idea where to find the auto to manual conversion kits for the lockins cheaper? cheapest ive found for warns was $215,i know I can get autos cheap at the junk yard(ifff I can find them),but im afraid with the tires im running and the way I drive they wont last long at all

 

[cmaggard]

okay so I replaced the sensor,and same thing,but I know its running way too rich(the other night I was letting it run for twenty mins and the cat was glowing red and had flames coming out if revved up,would this mabyt me a 02 sensor gone bad? also I found where the maf sensor was originally at and its obvious it hasn't been on there in a whileeeeee and it ran fine before,any ideas as to what would make this happen?

 

[natenkiki2004]

I'm probably wrong but just throwing this idea out there anyway;

The cat glowing red could be clogged but the flames shooting out, maybe leaky exhaust valves? Have you done a compression test? If you're shooting unburned fuel out with leaky exhaust valves then you would be shooting unburned oxygen out as well. The O2 sensor only looks for oxygen, and would tell the computer to dump more fuel in to compensate.


*EDIT*
Also, for the manual hub conversion, here's the kit from MileMarker:
http://www.amazon.com/Mile-Marker-95-27997-Hub-Conversion/dp/B000RZFOGS

You can grab a set of MileMarker 428 hubs as well but those nuts should work with any hub. I haven't had a problem with my MM hubs yet. They were on there when I got the truck, no idea how many miles. Both engage nicely, no chatter or disengaging. Can't really complain. I just e-mailed MileMarker for new o-rings, they were prompt and will sell replacement parts over the phone. They also have a lifetime warranty.

 

[cmaggard]

i tested the compression when I bought the truck,but I guess it couldn't hurt to recheck it,never thought about that idea,ill look into it,just wasn't sure what exactly could cause it ya know,, and ive heard of the mile markers just wasn't sure as to if they were as strong/reliable,im running wide 33s,and I don't give it any slack when im out in the mud bogs,its gas a go.

 

[Jason94sport]

also I found where the maf sensor was originally at and its obvious it hasn't been on there in a whileeeeee and it ran fine before,any ideas as to what would make this happen?

??? The MAF isn't connected?

 

[mr cribb]

Kinda what I was thinking. That not being connected would be a starting point.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Woah, I totally skipped over that somehow. If you don't have a MAF then you NEED to get one before you do ANY more troubleshooting.

 

[cmaggard]

that's kinda what I was thinkin but I wasn't forsure concitering it ran fine before without one ya know,ill go to the junk yard and get one asap though,any of you guys know a easy was to install into a piece of pipe so I could still use my snorkel? id really hate to loose that.lol or does the maf sensor need to be in the aluminum housing they come stock in

 

[mr cribb]

I wouldn't think so. I would mount in in a similar location as the factory, wire length will let you know your stopping point.

You "can use" a mass air housing from a 5.0 however, you need to use the 4.0 sensor guts.

If there is any problem at all it is that it would run a touch richer. I have used one on my 92 for 3 years and no adverse side effects. I still got the same fuel economy and same power.

I suggested the use of the 302 maf sensor housing because it is easier to construct an air intake with two round ends versus one round and one flat.

 

[cmaggard]

thanks man I really appreciate it,ive been looking into getting the sensor because I think it deffinatly makes a difference as far as running rich,and im guessing that is my issue due to how hot the exaust gets and it stumbling out.