93 Explorer EGR Tube Replacement Help

[Watchman]

I noticed a noise coming from the LH side of the engine while driving. It sounded like exhaust - but couldn't find the source. This morning I found it - the EGR tube has a hole in it.

I cannot tell due to rust and corrosion the connection to the exhaust manifold. It looks like two nuts - Need some help here - I'm going to replace the whole EGR - this is a Cali vehicle. Just need some help to understand the manifold connection, with detail please. Thank you

 

[2stroke]

I did this once, and would never do it again. Being a 93, you could legally delete it. A bolt in the exhaust manifold and a plate on the plenum will do. If you do replace it, the EGR tube is a dealer only part and costs a ton. You will need the EGR valve about $50, EGR pipe +$100, and I believe a 22 mm tap $15ish (I can get the exact thread pitch). The first thing I recommend you do is paint the EGR tube. O'reillys sells 1500 degree ceramic exhaust paint that should work well.

Pull the tubes to the DPFE, and the vacuum line to the EGR valve. To get the old tube out you remove the two bolts on the EGR valve and it will pull off the plenum. The new EGR should come with a gasket, but save the old one just incase. You might as well cut the tube off at the nut in the exhaust manifold at this point to get it out of the way. I don't remember exactly how I got at the fitting, but I believe I crawled under the vehicle and used a big vice grips from below. I needed to get it red hot to get the fitting out. At this point you need to run the tap in the exhaust manifold to clean up the threads. Blow compressed air in the hole to get the metal shavings out. Then its as simple as screwing the new EGR tube in tight, screwing the EGR valve to the tube, finally bolting the EGR valve to the plenum with a gasket, and hooking the lines back up. It took me a couple weeks because the dealer lost my EGR tube, and when it finally came, I discovered I needed a tap to thread it in. The project itself would take about a full day, two if you paint the EGR tube.

I didn't paint my tube, and a year later mine developed a pin hole leak at the first bend. Thanks Ford engineering. The tubes are paper thin, and the heat is too much for them. The ceramic paint should help a lot with that.

 

[Watchman]

I am going to buy the complete assembly from the plenum to the manifold. Here is the part on ebay:

Looking at the manifold connection - it looks like two nuts ?? So what do I grab - here is a picture

 

[Watchman]

Sorry - here's a better shot - resized. As you can see it looks like they are two nuts at the end of the tube into the manifold.
(dead link)

 

[Watchman]

Which one do I grab ?

 

[Turdle]

That is a flare fitting and nut. Hold the part on right from turning while you remove the nut on the left. It has normal "lefty loosy" threads.

spray it down real good with some PB blaster first, then eat lunch while it soaks in and works. WD40 is not good for this, use a good rust penetrating lube.

 

[Watchman]

So, coming out of that RH fitting are the threads that go into the nut that is on the LH side ?

 

[Watchman]

Now I see - ok - the tube from the EGR is flared and has a nut on it - this is the same nut on the LH side in my picture - this threads into the bung on the RH side of the picture.

 

[Watchman]

Ok - if the fitting breaks into pieces as I try to loosen the nut - Does anybody know the part number or fitting type that goes into the bung hole on the RH side of the above picture ?

 

[FR-425]

You can get that fitting at the hardware store.

It is just 1/2 male pipe to 3/8 flare.

 

[2stroke]

I'm pretty sure the fitting comes with the new tube.

 

[Watchman]

You can see the whole assembly on my link above - I didn't see that fitting in the picture. I ordered the assy and should get it Thurs. I put some exhaust putty around the hole and it is holding for now. When the assy comes in I'll bring to the hardware store and match it up with a fitting like you've showed above. I'll post the repair results hopefully by this Sunday. Thanks for your help.

 

[Watchman]

Hey FR-425 - Are you sure of those measurements ? I just received the assembly and the ID of the threaded portion that goes into the fitting (on the bung coming out of the manifold) is apprx 0.8 inches in diameter. I am taking the assembly with me to Fastenal just to make sure. BTW 2stroke - no fitting going into the manifold came with the assembly. What you see in the picture is what you get.

Also do I need to use tape or anything on the threaded connections of the tube both at the manifold and the valve on the plenum ?

Thank you for all you input

 

[2stroke]

I didn't buy that one, I bought the part from a ford dealer. I'm pretty sure it came with it then. You don't need any sealer on the threads, but something like ultra copper high temp RTV wouldn't hurt. I have the tap I used for the exhaust manifold bung. I'll go check what it is now.

 

[2stroke]

22 mm X 1.5

 

[mattZ]

I just had to replace that tube also. I was lucky an found one at the junkyard. I was also just able to remove the tube and left the fitting in the exhaust. Then I just connected the newish part to the fitting.

I second the PB blaster. I let mine soak for a day or so and still had to hack saw off the egr valve bracket to replace it. Good luck!

 

[Watchman]

I appreciate the feedback - Thanks for checking that dimension on the fitting 2stroke.

I've soaked that joint about 3X during the week with PB blaster. Tried working underneath - no room. So I tried thru the wheel well - used vise grips - still won't move. So I'm going to bring into the garage, remove tire and then work with it. If it won't break free - then it will be exhaust manifold removal. I'll post afterwards. Any tricks here will be appreciated. Rather not remove the manifold.

 

[2stroke]

As I stated, you need to use a torch. Map gas might might work, but it would be slow. Heat the manifold, not the fitting. A trick I learned is to get it red hot, let it cool, then it should be free when you heat it again. If it breaks off, cut it flush, drill it and tap it. Removing the exhaust manifold will just cause more headaches.

 

[mattZ]

As I stated, you need to use a torch. Map gas might might work, but it would be slow. Heat the manifold, not the fitting. A trick I learned is to get it red hot, let it cool, then it should be free when you heat it again. If it breaks off, cut it flush, drill it and tap it. Removing the exhaust manifold will just cause more headaches.

+1 for torch method. I used a map gas torch successfully to remove mine which was heavily rusted. A wrench with a breaker bar on it wouldnt even budge it before. I would also try to get the exact size fit wrench. You may strip it out otherwise.

 

[Watchman]

Well, I've tried Napa, Fastenal, and True Value - cannot find this fitting. Looked on the internet and they are aluminum. Any help here ?

Also - will have to look into getting a MAP torch - would they carry this at Lowes ?