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93 FORD Explorer 4x4 Build

i see where you guys are talking about the manual hubs from a dana 35 on a jeep/ i was thinking about switching to manual hubs. if i get those for my explo do i still need to buy a conversion kit for them

Yes (unless you get a junkyard pair and take all the parts down to the bearings). The conversion kit replaces the locknut and locking tab used with the auto hubs with two nuts and a lockwasher designed for use with manual hubs.
 



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Yes (unless you get a junkyard pair and take all the parts down to the bearings). The conversion kit replaces the locknut and locking tab used with the auto hubs with two nuts and a lockwasher designed for use with manual hubs.

thanks for the info
 






Thanx jmdirk, I'll get the Rough Country steering stabilizer today and look into the Super Runner steering from superlift to. With 35s will the 4.56:1 gears still work or what?

The gearing required for 35s will come down a lot to taste and what you have stock. If you had 4.10 with stock tires, 4.56 w/ 35s will probably feel really slow. On the other hand, if you had 3.27 with stock tires and went to 4.56 and 35s (which is what my situation was) it will actually feel a bit more lively. You shouldn't have any issues with excess wear on the transmission etc. In overdrive at 65 mph, I turn about 2000 rpm which is high enough for the torque converter to be fully locked and not cause any issues with excess heat buildup etc.

If you're planning on towing with it, you may want to look at 4.88s.
 






I run the 4:88's with my 35's and there is no problem. Last I heard the 5:13's(new) were giving people fits, so places like Randys Ring and Pinion was just going with the 4:88's.

Where did you hear they were giving people fits?? No ones had 'em in stock for anyone to even be able to get THAT far with them.

Precision Gear has been caught up in some kind of chaos with their parent corporation or something (resulting in them being sold off to someone else). This is why some gear ratios haven't been available for awhile now, they were the only ones making them (Randy's Yukon brand for example was reboxed Precisions).

I wish someone else would pick up the damn slack because of this :(
 






I heard (but have no proof) tht the 5:13 pinion is too thin and week... Don't know of any broken ones, just read it on a board awhile ago.
 






Never heard of a broken pinion yet, dozens of people running them with big tires too (the D35 pinion is actually thicker than a D44's).
 






I was wondering if I do a soa how much lift would that give me in the back like 5" ? If so is it possible to get a 8" Skyjacker lift for the front and then 3" lift springs for the rear? Then I wouldn't have to do a body lift.

Yep, 5-6" for the SOA. You can use the 8" springs, especially since they will compress to ~6" after they settle. But you won't be able to align it 100% until they settle. I wouldn't do it, lower is better, but some people do. As for lifting the rear 8", that will probably give you drive-line angle problems. But, like others have said, there is no reason to lift 8" since you can fit 35's with only 6" and anything larger then 35's will roast an assortment of axle parts.
 






Subscribing to watch the proceedings, looking good so far.
Only thing I would suggest is skipping the body lift if you can, or if you do want it, don't go more than 2 inches, anymore than that and it shows too much frame and brings other problems with it. Fender trimming is quite easy.
I run 5.13 gears as suggested by many on the site and I`m glad I went that way, especially being standard tranny.

good luck and let`s see some pics!
 






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