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'94 A4LD To M5Od




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The 558 code I was getting took me a few minutes to figure out what was going on. It has to do with EGR vacuum regulator. My plug on the vacuum regulator was connected and I had just replaced all the EGR system a couple of months ago. When i pulled the connector off just happened to look inside of it and noticed one of the wire tabs had pushed out of the connector, so I pushed it back in with a small screwdriver and held it in place while I reconnected it to the vacuum regulator. No more 558.

As for the 522 MLP circuit open, this is the one that I am not understanding. This keeps your 4 low from engaging because it can't tell when the tranny is in neutral. Grounding it solves this issue, but it doesn't get rid of the code. From what I can tell, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, the red/white wire is a wire that goes to the neutral safety switch on an auto tranny. When comparing the auto harness with the manual harness, this red/white wire is not on the manual harness. So what I would like to know is, how were the manuals wired from the factory in order for the push button four wheel drive to engage 4low and not keep a code?
 






Just got through doing a spindle replacement, bearing replacement, and universal replacement on the passenger side Thursday evening. Took her for a test drive, nice. Went to work Friday and when I got to town I noticed a high pitch squall coming from somewhere. Going home in the afternoon I could still hear it. Got home and raised the hood, got the wife to rev the gas while I checked things out. Sounded like it was coming from the power steering. Checked the fluid and it was low. Got some fluid today and filled it up. Problem solved or so I thought. Took a trip to town just a few minutes ago, got about a half mile from the house and it started again. Got back home, got the wife to come and rev the gas while I crawled around it again. It is definitely coming from the area of the slavecylinder/throwout bearing. Everything is brand new. I made no short cuts on this conversion.

The sound is almost exactly like a power steering pump squall. I have put over 900 miles on this tranny. I love it. But I don't want to take the S.O.B. back out. One thing I did not do and did not even think to do was put a little grease on the surface of the throwout where it makes contact with the clutch release fingers. Any ideas,any advice?
 






I know the feeling you're having. I watch my gear lever move all around in fifth after installing a new slider. I've taken the attitude now that I'll fix it when it it breaks next. If you don't want to remove it to see what the issue is I'd do just that!

If it's worth anything, I didn't do anything to either the pilot or throwout bearings.
 






Sounds like throw out bearing squealing. There's not much you can do about it except pull it all out and replace it.

My advice is: when you come to the point of where you can't stand it anymore or it quits... buy the motorcraft slave/ bearing assy, and be done with it. Yes it will cost you more up front, but you won't have problems.

I have 19,500ish miles on my slave assy (motorcraft) ZERO issues.
 






mr cribb, I was just reading some other threads and noticed that you dealt with a shake at around 30-40 mph. Ended up being a tranny mount. I to have been dealing with this. Only happens when accelerating. Most of the time when I look down at the speedo it happens in the 30-40 mph range. When I pull it I believe I will replace the mount and see if it takes care of the issue. As far as the squall I've been listening to it hasn't gotten worse but it is annoying as hell. I guess I will have to take it out sooner or later, the fact it is brand new and screwed already after only around 1000 miles really gripes my ass. When I get it out and am for sure that this is what it is I might not have a good review for certain parts makers.
 






mr cribb, I was just reading some other threads and noticed that you dealt with a shake at around 30-40 mph. Ended up being a tranny mount. I to have been dealing with this. Only happens when accelerating. Most of the time when I look down at the speedo it happens in the 30-40 mph range. When I pull it I believe I will replace the mount and see if it takes care of the issue. As far as the squall I've been listening to it hasn't gotten worse but it is annoying as hell. I guess I will have to take it out sooner or later, the fact it is brand new and screwed already after only around 1000 miles really gripes my ass. When I get it out and am for sure that this is what it is I might not have a good review for certain parts makers.

Yes for a while I dealt with a seat of the pants vibration.... a $20 trans mount took care of it, it stands to good reason as the original had cracked in half. I can't complain it had 205k at the time... not bad for a factory part.

I have minor vibration now, but that's in my front wheel bearings. I have put 25k w/o doing a brake job yet and unknown when they were last done.

As for the slave.... it's hard to say, some have good luck with what you bought, others have issues. I read too many horror stories to take a chance. My slave was still good w/o any leaks, but didn't want to do the job twice, so I replaced it. I pulled the factory clutch and slave out just shy of 201k, installed the heavy duty clutch and factory slave, that was almost a year ago and almost 20k miles. (Sept 10, 2011 is when I changed it) I deliver pizzas at night so I am constantly shifting gears. As far as I know the trans is original, very minor oil seepage(only mod to it is synthetic fluid).
 






It has been awhile since I posted last. Starting to get in the mood to spend some money on the ole Exploder. Here is an issue I found before I parked her again. Driver side wheel bearings were really rough, dry on grease and rusty. Have a feeling that this is resonating through the passenger side making me think it is an issue with the passenger side. Also noticed it is brake time. So I am gonna do the front brake job, front driver side wheel bearing, and drop the tranny to see if I can tell exactly what the issue with is. I miss driving her. Where can I get my hands on a Motorcraft slave and throwout?
 






Where can I get my hands on a Motorcraft slave and throwout?

Message fordsvtparts he works at Tousley Ford in northern Minnesota, he gives forum members his employee discount. It does take a day or so for a reply from him.

I am assuming he still works there :dunno:

It cost me $140 shipped for my slave cylinder in Sep 2011. The local price for a slave cylinder at Ford was $190 - $210.
 






Tied up some loose ends today on the manual swap. Got my 4 low working again. Spliced the r/w and r/lb wires at the tranny harness connection on the driver fender well. Got the auto shift indicator block in the dash gauge cluster swapped with the manual blank that goes in its place.
 












Everything else is great. Love the 5 speed. Only issue is either the cheap throwout or the cheap pilot is squealing.
 






After mine went in, I had a squeal start up in the 500 mile range, and lasted for.... 4k miles or so. Donno what it was, but eventually it went away. :shrug:

Has yours yet?
 






About 600 miles mine started. It comes and goes. I believe it is the cheap throwout making it.
 






Figured out the sound. In my rush to put things back together I put the tranny crossmember in wrong. On the passengers side it goes under and up the outside of the frame. On the drivers side I bolted it up to the underneath side of the frame instead of the way it was supposed to be, resting on the inside of the frame. After asking Maniak about it, I corrected my mistake. Doesn't seem like much but it is actually about an 1 1/2" to 2" difference. So I have been driving around with the tranny twisted towards the drivers side. Can you say in a bind? Haven't driven it a lot yet to see if that takes care of my squeal but I could already tell that it is going into 3rd and 4th easier.
 






Grats on the find! Just keep an eye on the rear driveshaft u-joints now. Don't want them things getting uppidy and exploding on you.
 






Hmm, so the cross member on the drivers side goes up into the frame. I think I have mine on as well as it's sitting against the bottom of the frame.
 






I will just bump this so i find it later. .. got some awnsers to the wire problems i know i must face when i start the swap :thumbsup:
 






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