A4LD to M5OD swap problems | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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LAWG_rider

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October 2, 2006
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City, State
Cookeville, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 XLT
So I started my swap a couple weeks ago and now I have run into some issues.

1. I don't have bolts to attach the pressure plate to the fly wheel. What size are they? What grade should I get? Will I need special heads for clearance?

2. Can I just reuse my auto dust shield? Can I modify it? The only thing I can really see is that its outline follows the auto but and it doesn't really look like there will be clearance issues.

3. Where can I get the line that runs from the master to the slave cylinder? I have looked on the Dorman web site and the auto store sites and they only sell the hose with a new slave and master. I am not sure which Dorman part number comes with those kits to try and get it by itself.

This has been a dream project of mine for a while and any help you guys can throw my way would be appreciated.
 



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I know the dust sheild is different- and so is the starter. I think you can modify the dust sheild though. If it were me I would put in a new slave cylinder (which comes with the line)-- They are a whole lot cheaper to do now then in 100 miles when the tranny is already in. Sorry don't know about the bolts.
 






Just looked again to be sure. The slave that I bought does not come with the hose/tubing that goes to the master cylinder.
 


















Try rockauto.com If i remember right they have the line.

rockauto was one of the places I first checked to see if they would have it. And they do. But the only thing I see it in is a kit with the slave, the master, and the line together. I have all the other stuff already just not the line.
 






The only thing I can think of is to find one in the junk yard. Have you tried ford for the line? I don't know what size the flywheel bolts are. But they are strong. I should think the auto stores have them. At least napa. They should have the line too. There was a Napa center attached to the car lot I worked for. if we needed anything, they had it.
 






You are much better off to get the master and the line assembled and pre-bled. The slave has a quick connect fitting so its not usually a problem.

I don't know if you ever have tried to bleed a clutch system out but its not fun. There almost always is air left in the system.
 






Thanks guys. I tried NAPA today and they only had the line in the kit and even that was special order. A local parts store measured me up and got the right bolts for me. I am going to try Ford for the line tomorrow. I have never bled a clutch system but I am always willing to try it once. If I can't get that done well enough I might take it to a shop and have them finish it off.
 






Thanks guys. I tried NAPA today and they only had the line in the kit and even that was special order. A local parts store measured me up and got the right bolts for me. I am going to try Ford for the line tomorrow. I have never bled a clutch system but I am always willing to try it once. If I can't get that done well enough I might take it to a shop and have them finish it off.

There's several links on bleeding the clutch. I know there's one or two in the trans section.
 






I have done a few, and most have never turned out right. We tried about 5 seperate times on my buddy's Dodge 3500 cummins ram, nothing could get the pedal right. A suction pump, reverse bleeding and conventional bleeding all failed. We had all new parts plus multiple old ones we tried. He finally bit the bullet and we got one from the dealer. We literally bolted it in and had to do nothing else.

Try it out, let us know how you did. It seems pressure bleeding from the bottom up nets the best results.
 






I will make sure to find those threads on bleeding. I took the Dorman part number for the line by itself to the shop that got me the bolts and they were able to get me the line. Hopefully I will have the trans in before Thanksgiving.
 






I have my transmission in and everything put back together. Now the darn thing won't start.

I got a rebuilt starter from Autozone. Put it on and nothing. The fender relay is clicking. There is nothing going on at the starter though.

Is there any sensor from the automatic that would keep it from starting?
 






Yep. That particular problem would be the wiring for the Neutral Safety Switch. There are also a couple of ways to deal with this trouble posted in the Trans. forum on the "stickies" list at the top 1/2 of the page. It can also help with the wiring issues that you are going to be dealing with if you have the E-shift transfer case.

You might want to double check your wiring on the starter and make sure that the little "trigger" wire is not grounding out against the drivetrain. Mine did this, and decided to happily smoke itself. This was after the wiring fiasco, so heads up.
 






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