95-01 Projector headlights, Part 2

[5.0 POWER]

ahhh yes i did see someone who did that on the other thread, i guess it was you. A lot of people were opposed to doing that though because they would have to buy a new relay to change it back again. sorry for all the questions. Do your fogs then turn off with the ignition ? do you have to remember to turn them off?

 

[celly]

ahhh yes i did see someone who did that on the other thread, i guess it was you. A lot of people were opposed to doing that though because they would have to buy a new relay to change it back again. sorry for all the questions. Do your fogs then turn off with the ignition ? do you have to remember to turn them off?

Actually, I followed the lead of several others. Trust me, I wouldn't have throught that all by myself! Thing is, I don't want to bring it back to stock, so why be worried about one relay which can be replaced relatively cheaply if it really was that important? I have no desire to reverse this mod. What's the point?

They operate EXACTLY like they always would, i.e. with the low beams (turning on and off with the ignition). Only difference is they no longer shut off when you put the highs on. That's it. I don't have to remember to turn them on and off any more than someone with the stock setup.

 

[storlied]

I'm not quite understanding how this HID relay works, if the stock harness trigger's the relay to give power... how is nothing interrupted when switching to high? Specially if the low power is being cut?

Seems like that throws my whole idea out the window... I think..

I'm just having a hard time understanding how the HID voltage isn't interrupted when switching beams... some kind of magic relay?
Once the switch is turned on, (depending on the position of the stalk) it gives power to either high or low. There's not an "always on"

Which logically leaves a gap. How exactly does this kit have an "always on" voltage (while the switch is on)?

I'm getting a little confused by this, anyone have any information?


Hell, this diagram doesn't even make complete sense:

One connection to factory harness, typical battery hookups... wth activates the high beams?.. This is ridiculous..

 

[celly]

I'm getting a little confused by this, anyone have any information?

Hell, this diagram doesn't even make complete sense:

One connection to factory harness, typical battery hookups... wth activates the high beams?.. This is ridiculous..

You don't have highbeams in that setup. Just a little solenoid that's activated to move the lights up and down when you hit the highbeams in the cab. The lowbeam never shuts off....the bulb is just MOVED when you hit the highs (I think you know that).

I think Todd gave you the hint that if you use that solenoid as a trigger of sorts to power the highbeams (via another relay or whatever), you'd be set.

FWIW, the diagram made perfect sense to me because it's similar to my old bi-xenon kit. Doen't mean I could figure out how to do quad beams from that setup because I'm "relay illiterate". I'm eventually going a different path using a Suvlights 9007 harness and the KC-Lites kit ditching the bixenon harness completely.

 

[storlied]

My kit definitely isn't like the one displayed above, it has the connector much like the blue one on our projector.. (Nice choice btw with the chrome, I love mine.. I don't think I'd much like black on my setup, which I'm sure you've thought to yourself also.)

I'm trying to steer away from the solenoid plan, I know hunterdan got it working, but only after he blew fuses.. that doesn't seem right to me.

Depending on which wires gets activated during high beam operation, I'll be hooking into that for the relay setup.. which will in turn go to both of the high beam H1's.

Seems like the one for the motor is the most obvious, but like mentioned before.... these wires are tiny as hell.. I'm almost scared to even hook them up to a relay... but if I can remove the high beam wire from the blue connector, and just connect that to the relay trigger, that would be great.

That still brings me back to the gap issue, I understand the 'low' which is the light entirely stays on constantly... but I think I remember during install without the high wire from the stock harness.. lights turn off when in high position... meaning somehow this relay bridges the power gap between the beams somehow. (Gotta keep in mind, no matter how the kit is setup, or any alterations you make to the wiring beyond the stock harness.. the vehicle still by default kills all voltage to the low beam wire. [<That's my biggest point really.. which gives me my confusion..] Somehow this relay grabs power from both wires, and even holds the power during the switch.. which doesn't make much sense logically. Not from what relays and other electrical switches I've seen for automotive lighting.

The kit is pretty much bypassing the vehicle's normal function... and it makes no sense how it's done...

 

[celly]

My kit definitely isn't like the one displayed above, it has the connector much like the blue one on our projector.. (Nice choice btw with the chrome, I love mine.. I don't think I'd much like black on my setup, which I'm sure you've thought to yourself also.)

I'm trying to steer away from the solenoid plan, I know hunterdan got it working, but only after he blew fuses.. that doesn't seem right to me.

Depending on which wires gets activated during high beam operation, I'll be hooking into that for the relay setup.. which will in turn go to both of the high beam H1's.

Seems like the one for the motor is the most obvious, but like mentioned before.... these wires are tiny as hell.. I'm almost scared to even hook them up to a relay... but if I can remove the high beam wire from the blue connector, and just connect that to the relay trigger, that would be great.

That still brings me back to the gap issue, I understand the 'low' which is the light entirely stays on constantly... but I think I remember during install without the high wire from the stock harness.. lights turn off when in high position... meaning somehow this relay bridges the power gap between the beams somehow. (Gotta keep in mind, no matter how the kit is setup, or any alterations you make to the wiring beyond the stock harness.. the vehicle still by default kills all voltage to the low beam wire. [<That's my biggest point really.. which gives me my confusion..] Somehow this relay grabs power from both wires, and even holds the power during the switch.. which doesn't make much sense logically. Not from what relays and other electrical switches I've seen for automotive lighting.

The kit is pretty much bypassing the vehicle's normal function... and it makes no sense how it's done...

In my bi-xenon kit, the lows don't or even flicker and definitely don't turn off when I hit the highs. They stay on uniniterrupted. In fact I'm using the harness now for the time being until the Suvlights kit shows up and I hit the high beams and nothing happens. The first HID kit I had would turn off my lows when I hit the highs, but that was only a single beam kit. I hated that because a few times I hit the highs our of instinct on the highway and then I'd be in pitch dark. Not a good thing to happen.

 

[5.0 POWER]

Celly i went back to the thread about cutting off one of the prongs on the foglight relay and they said it only worked for the 1999-2001 models = (. guess i will just have to wire it the 1997 way

 

[celly]

Celly i went back to the thread about cutting off one of the prongs on the foglight relay and they said it only worked for the 1999-2001 models = (. guess i will just have to wire it the 1997 way

That must be because 99-01 have the round fogs.

 

[Bill Kemp]

Storlied, check out the quad beam lighting thread.
You do not hook the KC relay kit to the HID light wires but to the OEM headlight wires.
All it does is supply power to the low beams direct from the battery while the high beams are on. Look at the diagram on the KC site link.

 

[celly]

Storlied, check out the quad beam lighting thread.
You do not hook the KC relay kit to the HID light wires but to the OEM headlight wires.
All it does is supply power to the low beams direct from the battery while the high beams are on. Look at the diagram on the KC site link.

That's where I plan to install mine. Power to my HIDs and highs are being handled by the Suvlights harness but the KC Lites kit is being spliced into the OEM wires upstream of the harness. You gave me that idea.

 

[storlied]

If there's no voltage gap with the KC harness, I'm in. (But my thing is, if the relay in the HID kit already does this... then there's gotta be a way to seperate the beams past the hid kit..)
I'm pretty much gonna have it setup as if the high beams are on their own setup, the high just trigger's whatever relay I use.

 

[storlied]

There ya go, Elite once again. And with that said.. got my bulbs ordered finally. (Had to wait for a stupid address confirmation in the mail.)

I ordered 5000K's.. should be pretty good. Going from 6000k.

 

[5.0 POWER]

i installed my new projector headlights yesterday. I absolutely love the light output, even with halogen bulbs. however i did run into the a couple more problems then anyone else here had seemed to mention. this could have been due to the fact that i ordered mine from EBAY (racer union). They are the same exact lights. I had a lot of trouble installing the turn signal bulbs into the housing because the plastic reflectors on the inside of the housing didn't line up with the rear of the housing. I will post pics of my install later.

 

[celly]

i installed my new projector headlights yesterday. I absolutely love the light output, even with halogen bulbs. however i did run into the a couple more problems then anyone else here had seemed to mention. this could have been due to the fact that i ordered mine from EBAY (racer union). They are the same exact lights. I had a lot of trouble installing the turn signal bulbs into the housing because the plastic reflectors on the inside of the housing didn't line up with the rear of the housing. I will post pics of my install later.

I had a real issue trying to get the turn signal bulbs in on one side. Not only was it a tight fit, but the "pin" that lines up the headlights was in the way. I had to do some Dremeling to make it happen. A definite annoyance.

These things aren't perfect, but they're pretty darn good.

Definitely consider a HID option. They handle them well.

 

[storlied]

Is that "pin" you're refering to, that plastic clip like thing on the top turn signal connector?


What's the best and easiest way to do the trimming I need to do?.. I don't have any type of cutting tools.

Also, just food for thought.. I've been reading up on PIAA's "4300k" offering.. and it seems many people highly suggest this light.. over the SS and other common high output bulbs..... it might be worth looking into for a safe (as far as wattage goes) and Bright high beam in these projectors.

 

[celly]

Is that "pin" you're refering to, that plastic clip like thing on the top turn signal connector?


What's the best and easiest way to do the trimming I need to do?.. I don't have any type of cutting tools.

Also, just food for thought.. I've been reading up on PIAA's "4300k" offering.. and it seems many people highly suggest this light.. over the SS and other common high output bulbs..... it might be worth looking into for a safe (as far as wattage goes) and Bright high beam in these projectors.

PIAA halogen bulbs are completely overrated, IMHO. I used a set in my fogs once and they weren't any better than generic H1 bulbs. They're just another ricer bulb, IMHO. I actually still have a set of their yellow bulbs and they were barely yellow. I now have Luminics yellows in my fogs and they're an improvement.

Check out powerbulbs.com for H1. They're in the UK and offer free shipping worldwide. I got my Osram Night Breakers from them in about a week. They're good bulbs, but pale in comparison (literally and figuratively) than HID. Don't get hung up on your high bulbs.

Not everyone has had the trim issue. You can practice now before you install them by using your existing signal light plugs from your corners to see how they fit. You don't need cutting tools. A simple small file would probably work just fine if you have the "tight fit" issue.

 

[storlied]

I was thinking the same thing Celly, they do look a bit ricer oriented.. with the blue tint and all. (Perhaps that would explain the popularity.. )

I did checkout the Night Breaker ones, while they do have the blue tint on part of them.. they do look like a quality product, the company is well known.

Yeah, you're right though.. my high beams shouldn't concern me much.. I have 4 other auxilary lights for when I need them anyways.

 

[celly]

I was thinking the same thing Celly, they do look a bit ricer oriented.. with the blue tint and all. (Perhaps that would explain the popularity.. )

I did checkout the Night Breaker ones, while they do have the blue tint on part of them.. they do look like a quality product, the company is well known.

Yeah, you're right though.. my high beams shouldn't concern me much.. I have 4 other auxilary lights for when I need them anyways.

The Night Breakers don't look blue at all. They don't even look white. Just your typical halogen colour. They come somewhat hightly rated, but I didn't see anything special about them. My eyes are trained for HID after using them for several years. All halogens look dull to me.

 

[storlied]

Haha, Agreed. I can only see crappy yellow lights when I see halogen nowadays.... It's HID all the way.

(Btw, what's Canadian laws on HID? I might be passing though in the near future..)

 

[snewton92]

will these fit on an 01 sport trac