96 5.0 no start / coil packs work, new plugs n wires | Ford Explorer Forums

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96 5.0 no start / coil packs work, new plugs n wires

SupahDave

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December 10, 2020
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City, State
Paia
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 ford explorer 2wd
I drove to the gas station. Put in fuel.And it has not started since.. I Saw where plug wires were arching against exaust so new plugs, wires, fuel filter, ck ps. Getting spark "descent color" form packs to each wire. Jumper wire powering fuel pump. It sure wants to. But nothing...
Any thing other then a new cam sensor and or new packs??
 



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Are you sure you didn’t just get bad gas?
 






if you have spark then you can rule out the cam, crank sensors and the coil packs, wires and plugs

You can check your firing order, make sure you got the wires on properly
Otherwise I bet you find its a fuel pressure issue, just because the pump has power does not mean it is providing the necessary pressure

38 psi at the rail for a 96 explorer
Check fuel pressure

Why did you have to run a jumper wire to fuel pump?
 






if you have spark then you can rule out the cam, crank sensors and the coil packs, wires and plugs

You can check your firing order, make sure you got the wires on properly
Otherwise I bet you find its a fuel pressure issue, just because the pump has power does not mean it is providing the necessary pressure

38 psi at the rail for a 96 explorer
Check fuel pressure

Why did you have to run a jumper wire to fuel pump?
I didn't have to. I did to make the pump prime as much as possible to tell if was sending enough pressure..
Seemed sufficient from the shrater valve. But think you're right..
The coil packs have hairline cracks on the bottom but send spark to each wire..
Tried a lil starting fluid. But got a pretty big backfire?
 






Are you sure you didn’t just get bad gas?
It had been sitting a while while i rebuild the transmission. So i did assume a clogged ish fuel pump filter.. Shook up the tank n replaced filter
Ill be putting a new pump tomorrow. Surly it's time
 






if coil packs have cracks you need to replace them for sure, once they crack its on borrowed time, its possibly only half of the cylinders are sparking

Usually with a good crank and spark and no start, usually it is low or no fuel pressure
You should check fuel pressure before installing a new pump and filter
ONLY USE BOSCH pump, Bosch makes a "blue" replacement pump that is the correct OEM part and will last
Other cheaper pumps are not worth using for the amount of work involved in dropping the tank
 






if coil packs have cracks you need to replace them for sure, once they crack its on borrowed time, its possibly only half of the cylinders are sparking

Usually with a good crank and spark and no start, usually it is low or no fuel pressure
You should check fuel pressure before installing a new pump and filter
ONLY USE BOSCH pump, Bosch makes a "blue" replacement pump that is the correct OEM part and will last
Other cheaper pumps are not worth using for the amount of work involved in dropping the tank
So I had a brand new ranger pump laying around. so I threw it in. Tanks is super clean.. Gas is fresh.. Nothing
Bought new coil packs... Same. Nothing
 






Did you test fuel pressure? Assuming your wires aren't crossed it seems like it has to be a fuel issue (unless somehow your engine lost compression when you got gas, an unlikely scenario).
 






Did you test fuel pressure? Assuming your wires aren't crossed it seems like it has to be a fuel issue (unless somehow your engine lost compression when you got gas, an unlikely scenario).
Agreed. No i haven't tested pressure since it says best to do it right off the tank..
Although i did cut a hole ender the back seat to avoid dropping the tank. "Multiple times". So.. No issue getting there
 






Agreed. No i haven't tested pressure since it says best to do it right off the tank..
Although i did cut a hole ender the back seat to avoid dropping the tank. "Multiple times". So.. No issue getting there
I can only think fp regulatar or cam synchro
 






It should run without the camshaft sensor. At least the V8s don’t need it.
 






fuel pressure is tested right at the fuel rail on the engine, there is a Schrader valve for this purpose

Check all of your fuses including the "mega" fuse at the power distribution box

Check battery power make sure you have 12V+ and check the battery terminals, how do the wires look?

Is the check engine light on?
 






^ Like 410 says, just test it on the fuel rail like it's intended. That tells you that the fuel injectors are receiving fuel at the right pressure.

If that checks out, at this point it's something unexpected --

Are you sure you are getting spark after changing the plugs and wires?

Might be worth hooking up a timing light and making sure you are getting spark, and making sure the timing is correct (at least you'll confirm that the #1 cyl is firing when you expect).
 






I drove to the gas station. Put in fuel.And it has not started since.. I Saw where plug wires were arching against exaust so new plugs, wires, fuel filter, ck ps. Getting spark "descent color" form packs to each wire. Jumper wire powering fuel pump. It sure wants to. But nothing...
Any thing other then a new cam sensor and or new packs??
Crank sensor.
 






Replace e crank sensor. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body while cranking engine. That will tell if bad fuel pump. If it starts replace pump. If not replace crank.
 






If you HAVE spark at the spark plugs then it is not the cranskshaft position sensor
If you do NOT have spark at the plugs then yes the crank sensor is suspect for sure!!
 






Agreed. No i haven't tested pressure since it says best to do it right off the tank..
Although i did cut a hole ender the back seat to avoid dropping the tank. "Multiple times". So.. No issue getting there
For is at 40 max
 






Replace e crank sensor. Have you tried spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body while cranking engine. That will tell if bad fuel pump. If it starts replace pump. If not replace crank.
Replaced crank sensor.. Still only backfire when spraying in throttle
 






Did you check for trouble codes? I didn't see anything in the previous posts about that.
 



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Backfire is close to starting... Soo...plug the vaccum line going to the canister purge valve it may be stuck open to release fumes in the tank after a fill up. That thing sounds like u had a slew of problems that need to be addressed... A jumper will f up the pump/evap system.
 






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