96 EB 4.0 4R55E Help?

[Ridgeline]

Okay I got a 96 EB about 2 years ago or so. I had the transmission rebuilt and everything was good for about 9 months. Then one day it did not want to shift into drive when it was cold in the mornings only happened occasionally, but if I shifted to first or second then drive all was well and after I made it 1/4 down the road I would have not issues for the rest of the day. At the advice of my wife I took it back to the shop that rebuilt the trans. They said leave it they would take care of it. I picked it up it felt a lot firmer in every gear for about 3 miles. then start slipping bad 3-4. I immediately took it back they said it was a shift solenoid and they would take care of it. It was fine for another 2-3 months long enough for the warranty to run out. Then the 3-4 flare came back. I was out of warranty and it only did the 3-4 intermittently, Then one day the transmission would not down shift to first. I have read this could be caused by a bad gasket and improper EPC pressure, but I took it to the guys that rebuilt it and paid them to diagnose and they replaced the TCC solenoid. I read a lot on this site and adjusted the bands to spec they torque down to spec fine so I am 99% sure my bands are fine. My thought is to fix the initial problem they simply adjusted the EPC solenoid but I have no proof of that. I now have a flare in 1-2 after the truck is driven long enough to get to operating temperature. If I manual shift it through the gears everything is fine with no slipping.

Now that I have you up to where I am currently, I am looking for guidance, I have purchased a 04 XLT Sport and I am wondering what I should do with my EB. I would like to hold on to it for a backup or possibly sell it but it would bank a lot more cash if it was issue free. I tried Lucas which did nothing and now it looks like I am way over full on the dipstick at operating temperature.
I took it back to the trans shop with the new problem they want $450 just to pull it and then whatever parts I need to replace. I am not sure I want to do that if the problem is in the valve body. seeing as how the trans does not need to come out for that.

So I know that I need to drain some fluid and that I would need the $200 EPC if I was going to replace that, I am thinking a new VB gasket is a good idea but just not sure if I am wasting time and money.

Please help I have searched and while I found a lot of info I am looking for experienced help.

P.S. I do not have any Codes. and no flashing O/D Light

Thanks, Mark

 

[Ridgeline]

Also just went out and did the engine brake test and in first gear after letting off the gas the truck definitly slows down not like in neutral but a true engine brake. I am guessing based on other threads that should mean that the valve body gaskets are not leaking. Of course I have done this with the truck cold and when cold the transmission does not flare.
Any ideas?

 

[BrooklynBay]

It might be a problem with the valve body or the servos on the side of the transmission. Do you know if the shop replaced the servos & rebuilt the valve body?

 

[Ridgeline]

I am not real sure. It went in with a broken band, so I am not sure what exactly they replaced. The receipt was not very detailed.

There is a guy in Largo Florida not too far from me that has a remanufactured with an updated valve body for $174. I',m just trying to decide if that is worth it.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did the transmission have similar issues prior to being repaired by this shop?

 

[Ridgeline]

No I took it to be rebuilt because in order to shift from 2nd I had to left off the gas. I dropped the pan and there was a piece of the band. I took it to them in that condition. After it would not go into drive on some occasions I took it to them and they did something said they replaced a solenoid. The transmissions felt remarkably different and about 3 miles down the road bad slipping 2-3 I took it back they said they were going to have to take it down to look at it a week later they said it was a solenoid. About a month later and now out of warranty the second to third shift flare started after I would drive 20-25 miles. Only after the car runs for a little while. It takes less mileage than that now that the bands have been adjusted for it to slip. Before band adjustment it only did it 2-3 now it does it 1-2 also. I took it back to see if they would do anything and basically I am stuck.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Try to get a print out from the shop of what they did.

 

[Ridgeline]

Already asked for that the last time I went in and was told there system was replaced the month before and they did not keep the record as I am out of warranty.
I am not afraid of dropping the valve body but correct me if I am wrong the trans has to come out for servos?

I got almost 2 years out of the trans and I put a lot of miles on my vehicles mostly highway but I have the newer explorer and hate for this thing to just sit

 

[BrooklynBay]

You could replace the servos while the transmission is still in the vehicle, but the catalytic converter might have to be removed.

 

[Ridgeline]

Would you personally start with the Servos or the VB?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Start with the valve body.

 

[Ridgeline]

Great thanks for the guidance. I think based on price I will just get the reman VB and post back here my results.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Make sure that you use a 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench on the valve body bolts. Don't reuse the valve body gasket even if it looks good.

 

[Ridgeline]

Will do I bought the in/lb torque wrench recommended on the Band Adjustment guide. And I will definitely use a new gasket.
Are there any how to's in regards to servo replacement I can search just figured if you had a link in your fav's already...
Thanks again

 

[Ridgeline]

Quick inspection I find that I no longer have a heat-shield covering the servos, would that be a better place to start at this point or should I go with the VB still first? I am in Florida and a sales rep and spend all day in my vehicles. so the Cat would be HOT..

 

[BrooklynBay]

It's possible that the servos are dried out, so it wouldn't hurt to replace both of them. Get a new heat shield too.

 

[Ridgeline]

Okay so I found a guy in Florida for a Valve body he has one for $99 and then I asked if it had been updated for any TSB's I was told no just simply reman'd to the original specs and that was why the price was so low. I asked if he had any that had all the TSB's and updates done and tested. He sent me this link

Ebay Valve Body

Is this true that I can use a reman'd 5r55e VB in my 4R55E and do I have to use a specific EPC green or red I have been told a lot of different things and read a lot of info and just do not want to buy anything I do not need or can not use.

Thanks in Advance

 

[BrooklynBay]

There are a few differences such as the green band EPC, TCC solenoid, and the separator plate hole spacing. Contact Donny at WWW.CentralValveBodies.Com, and say that you are a member of Explorer Forum for a discount. He will give you a completely updated valve body with Sonnax parts. As for specific tools, use a 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench on the valve body bolts.