97 AWD 5.0 - the bleeding $$$ at dealer begins - FINAL RESOLUTION | Ford Explorer Forums

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97 AWD 5.0 - the bleeding $$$ at dealer begins - FINAL RESOLUTION

ELeBlanc

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 12, 2016
Messages
230
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Location
brooklyn ny
City, State
brooklyn, ny
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Ford Explorer
thank you all that have contributed. Specifically Koda2000 and 410Fortune.

So I thought it was a fuel delivery issue. The dealer says they can't communicate with the computer and they conclude hence no spark - which I guess means they don't believe its the connector for the ODBII reader but the computer itself not functioning or getting no power.

I'm in for $90 so far (which is less than an hour). They estimate, and I authorized, an hour or two for further diagnosis.

I know I'm jumping ahead but I've seen on the site people describing pulling an ECM from a junkyard vehicle. How identical do the two cars need to be - year, engine, drivetrain? I see $100-170 for "refurb" on eBay. Harrys U Pull It. $24+$3 core cost but no 1997 5.0s in their lot.
 



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How much is your time worth? Rockauto has "refurb" computers for about $110:

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If a used one is not readily available, I'd get one of these.

Having the dealer do a diagnosis is a mistake though, IMO. The cost will rack up fast and there's no guarantee they will find the problem.
 






End of day they got it to run briefly so but not again. They think the ECM is fine and its a wiring issue somewhere. Which is also what the last mechanic concluded. So now I've paid for that but still no solution yet.
 






Now don't kill me for this

Why not pull the pcm take it apart and look for some bad capacitors and broken solder joints

This will help rule out the pcm
 






connections to PCM relay inside power distribution box cutting out giving intermittent PCM power-----

Look for heat damage on the relay lugs indicating poor connections

also could be a faulty relay
 






Is the log the metallic part (ie the legs) of the relay that fit into the receptacle? What would burning look like on the metal?
So now dealer has come back and found a fuse that they say was bad but since they've replaced it the car has run fine and they've been driving it and turning it off and on.... None of it gives me the warm and fuzzies given that the primary use of the truck is 250 mile trips on I80 at night...
 






Which fuse
 






Vehicle is 250 miles away from me. I asked him for a picture. I suppose I just could have asked which fuse. Actually dealer said fuse was not blown but since they replaced it vehicle has been fine. So clearly I must carry a spare with me
 






Sounds fishy but we'll see
Maybe just a dirty socket
 






No bill yet. It's similar to what happened with first mechanic. He sad he didn't solve anything. He just removed and reseated things and it started. Now I took it and 2 hours later I was dead again in a Walmart and towed back to him. He could not get it started again. He could not find anything so he gave up and suggested the dealer.

Maybe I should suggest the dealer put back the "bad but not blown" fuse and see if the problem is back.
 






Sounds like a dirty connection or maybe a loose wire.
 






I'm surprised @J_C hasn't chimed in this sounds like electric problem and he is good at electric
 






I'm surprised @J_C hasn't chimed in this sounds like electric problem and he is good at electric
J.C. is on a two week holiday vacation.... wont be back till Jan 2nd ! :thumbsup:
 






Ok my final bill from the dealer is $319. They replaced Fuse 19 in the interior fuse box. They said it wasn't blown but that when they replaced it everything seems to be working fine. They have driven it. Run it, shut it off, run it again, etc and all seems well.

From the web the description of fuse 19 says "Radio Noise Capacitor, Ignition Coil, PCM Power Diode".
There is no radio in the vehicle. It was a municipal vehicle so I see lots of extra wires in their many just cut and tied off.

Picking up tomorrow and will be driving only local for one week....
 






Check the noise suppressor bolted down to the coil pack on 1 of the bolts. I've seen the wire break off and intermittently ground out blowing that fuse.
 






Took bus 250 miles followed by taxi to Ford Dealer Sunday evening so they were closed. I told them I would come by when they were closed so they left vehicle directly in front of the service entrance?? Why not in a parking spot??

Anyway used spare key to get in. Tried to start three times. Same as the first time. Cranks but not start. Back to square zero and now the total spent is $300 for 3 tows and $450 between mechanic and dealer.
 






I wish I were closer we would have your truck fixed now
 












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