98 ranger extensive body work | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

98 ranger extensive body work

I doubt it will get it hot enough.

In the rare event that I bend them back I use an acetylene torch and it takes a few mineuts.

Glowing orange is the best adn easiest condition to bend them.


crap, i dont have an oxy/acetylene torch, nor access to one...

i also dont have the $ to buy the new horns either...... this sucks, and i need this fixed asap, htis is currently my moms only vehicle... she is riding buses right now....


do you have an aftermarket source to those frame horns? i need cheap as possible, local dealer said $256, torrie @ fpn wants $160..... but i am still poor as hell



looking at mine, think i can bend them back with a bench vise, and being creative? without removing them?


i have the knowledge to replace them, but not the fundage....
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





it would be a heck of a lot of work to bend them with out heat.
You wont do it by hand at least.
 






well, i broke down and because im lazy, have decided to replace them, i will be ordering the horns from torrie, in a few minutes
 






i ordered them, but got a email back from him saying one of them was on backorder from ford... he was able to find it locally, but it was goign to cost me an additional $15 bucks... i said ok.....

$188.xx shipped.... still a lot better than my local dealership wanted @ $256.....


i am borrowing a large air compressor from my friend tomorrow and will be buying a new set of wheels for my die grinder
 






ok, so i am borrowing a big air compressor to tackle this.... my grinder is 3" and should i be using a 1/16" thick wheel or a 1/32" thick wheel?
 






so i am making a little progress..... i decided to use a 3" x 1/32" wheel

after the deed, i hit it with a wire wheel to show details.... i cut into the rail a hair here and there, but never through--so i think im good... i will probably grind off the rest of the welds so it is smooth after i do some positioning of the new parts which arent here yet.... i will also be only doing one side at a time to use the other for comparison... i do also have a used bumper i will be using for mockup that is straight just to double check it

what do you think?

toplookingdown-leftrail.jpg


rightsidelookingleft-leftrail.jpg


leftsidelookingright-leftrail.jpg


bottomlookingup_leftrail.jpg


frontlookingback-leftrail.jpg
 






WOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!

That is one clean jop !!!!!!!

Very impressed.
 






lemmie know when you are ready for the core support
 






lemmie know when you are ready for the core support

i have decided that i am not going to replace the core support, maybe i will later down the line, but it iwll work for now with the hood hinged spaced out....


i need to get this back on the road asap and as cheap as possible


thanks for the compliment on the bracket....


i jsut got my new ones..... and the way it tells me to measure i am unsure of... it says 90mm from an oval hole in the frame, but it doesnt say if its 90mm to the front of back of the bracket....

also it says to put it at 90*+1* horizontally and vertically.... how can i gauge what that is? i dont have a square that will fit, and the frame isnt quite flat either... its got bulges here and there (not bent, just the way it is)
 






where you @ monmix?!
 












sorry man,
life happens.

I used a small level when I did mine.
One of those six inch torpedo levels.
 






sorry man,
life happens.

I used a small level when I did mine.
One of those six inch torpedo levels.

i know life happens, my life is about to get crazier, i start the fire academy and wont have the time to spend on this i need to but my mom needs her truck asap.....


i bought a small level that is magnetic @ harbor frieght last week..... also... i was wondering if i should cut a 2x4 to length and bolt the brackets to it on the insides, and then hang it.... that way the bumper will at least sit level... then do my best to get it level and then weld....



im using a lincoln weldpak 100 wire feed, think this is enough?
 






all done.... i think my mounts might be a little bit off from one another, but they are good enough for me......


i do need to figure out how to adjust it better though, me tightening one bolt and smacking and trying to get another aint cutting it so well

pic091508_2.jpg


pic091508_3.jpg


pic091508_1.jpg


pic091508_5.jpg
 






Looks good to me.
A little tweek to the level and all set.
You can do that one side at a time,,, just a little secret.
 






i tried the one side @ a time, thats how i got it where it was, it's jsut a pain in the butt.....


im ralatively pleased with the results though, its not perfect, but it'll work.... if i get around to replacing hte hood and the core support, i have no doubt you wouldnt be able to tell unless really looking for it....


i think i might put a 4x4 grill

also found something out about the front horns..... they have the crossbar like the parts diagram if it's a 4x4, because the towhooks mount to it... the 2wd doesnt have that of course
 






i am done with it for now.... i ended up getting the 4x2 grill.... i really should replace the hood and replace the front core support, but i have not yet. here is what the pics show, i have stacked nuts to space the hood latch mechanism out to where it's supposed to be, also the hood is a hair up from being smashed, and you can see the feders are wider out at the front than the back, die to the sore support being bent in, so they spread.... and then.... here is the finished product... it is noticeable, but, not too much..... i still need to attach the front license plate bracket though....

pic103108_2.jpg


pic103108_5.jpg


pic103108_3.jpg


pic103108_4.jpg


pic103108_1.jpg
 






Featured Content

Back
Top