'99 Explorer XLS V6 4.0 Rough Idle

[ngbeau89]

Good day everyone. Hoping to get some answers...

I'm having some trouble with my Explorer. I'll start back with the major issue and work to where I'm currently at. I was driving to college from home and on my last bout before I got to school, the engine overheated and I noticed the truck had a clanking sound instead of the usual "roar" (don't laugh, but this is my biggest engine I've ever owned. Had a civic due to traveling a lot in the Army) while i was accelerating. I pulled over, replaced the coolant that was missing, and drove the rest of the way to school and it didn't overheat. I got the vehicle home via tow truck JIC. I did a couple google searches and found some possible fixes.

I first replaced the thermostat, which was in pieces upon taking the housing off, then I noticed any fluids I put in the radiator were draining pretty quickly, so I replaced the radiator, and upon inspection, I noticed the old radiator was blown. Now, there's no more overheating, no more fluid leaks, etc. Just a really bad, rough idle. I changed the IAC valve as well just in case. My check engine light was on, so I drove to the local advance store and had some codes read. I had a misfire in cylinder 3. I changed ALL the spark plugs, the coil pack, and wires.

After firing up the vehicle, my buddy and I noticed a decent amount of white smoke coming out the exhaust with some water. So thinking it might be a head gasket, we checked the oil for your the classic over-creamed-coffee or white color, but it was fine. My Explorer has been using an excessive amount of coolant lately...

Anyways, the idle is noticeably still bad, but not as bad as it was before. I'm suspecting maybe a blown head gasket, but the oil wasn't milky or creamy. I read something about maybe a PCV replacement, but I'm not a mechanic.. It blows white smoke when its cold, warming up, and when running at operating temps. IAC Valve was changed as well. Any other ideas? I'm at a loss.

 

[david4451]

The white smoke could well be coolant going into cylinder due to a failed cylinder head gasket. Your coolant is going down
As a fix you could try Bars leaks for cylinder head gasket, I've never used it but there are numerous utube videos about its use.
The replacement of cylinder head gasket is the way to go but it is big job.

 

[ngbeau89]

I've seen the bars leaks for cylinder head gasket videos. I'm hesitant to try it b/c I think its more of a quick fix. Thanks for you input david. I'll look at maybe taking it apart. I'm stuck for now so might as well.

 

[J_C]

Pull and inspect the spark plugs. If you're getting coolant in a cylinder it will likely make that plug(s) look different. While you're pulling plugs, get them all out at same time and do a compression test on each cylinder, noting compression # for each to compare them. Autozone and some others will loan a compression tester with a deposit.

Yes it is likely you have a blown head gasket at best, or worse a warped or cracked head.

 

[ngbeau89]

All right. I did that Lisle's combustion leak indicator fluid test. Definitely a cracked head or blown gasket. Hoping for the latter...Flushing out radiator and engine to put some bluedevil gasket sealer... Hope this works. Or else I might have an explorer for sale. Thanks guys!

 

[J_C]

Better to do the heat gasket first "IF" that's the problem. Some would take the heads to a machine shop to have them check trueness and machine them flat if needed, and magnaflux testing for cracks, then putting forth the time and money to flush radiator last, after it's confirmed running good again.

 

[lobo411]

Totally agree on having the heads checked by a machine shop. I think I paid $100 or maybe a little more to have mine checked for warpage, cracks, and also to have a valve job done. I figured it was money well spent, if only b/c I didn't have to fool around with those stupid valve keepers!

 

[ngbeau89]

It's still throwing me off... No milky oil and now no white smoke at all in the exhaust. I didn't put the gasket sealant in yet. You guys know if a cracked head or gasket can not have those symptoms? I know what my next major is...

 

[J_C]

Make sure you aren't low on coolant again. Personally I would pull the plugs and do a compression test.

Keep in mind that if you were previously burning and pumping coolant out the exhaust, that there may have been coolant just sitting in the exhaust that takes several minutes of running to purge from it.

Keep in mind that you might not even have a blown head gasket or head problem at all. An intake manifold leak can cause coolant loss which is sucked more into whichever cylinder is closest.

It's your vehicle and maybe worth a try to just put some coolant based gasket sealant in to see what happens, but I'd be planning to buy a kit including head gaskets and intake manifold upper and lower gaskets and do all three. What your time is worth if there's a head problem and you proceed as if there isn't (which there may not be) vs the cost of having a machine shop check the heads while they're off is another variable to consider.

If you can't DIY, with some shopping around a garage will probably do this for about $900 incl. parts & labor, maybe cheaper if you go with someone on craigslist that takes longer to get the work done.

 

[ngbeau89]

I'm limited with time and funds sadly... College students don't have much wiggle room with finances... If i could i would bring the head to a shop and have it checked out. I appreciate your input JC. Thank you! Having a shop do the repairs is more than the truck is valued at lol.

 

[J_C]

I don't know what shape the vehicle is in overall, but a very badly running to not running vehicle has essentially scrap value (unless you find The Right Person to buy it) while the cost of gaskets and machining the head IF needed, should increase the value of the vehicle more than the expense to you, IF you can DIY the repair. I can understand if that's not possible. I would not have wanted to jump into something like that when I was busy with college either, except there's still the need for transportation...

 

[ngbeau89]

So no homework for the weekend. I'll take it apart and get the heads off and inspect them and what not. There's too many negative reviews for that bluedevil ****. If thats not the problem, then i'm just going to ruin my coolant system and brand new radiator if i do use it. Thanks for the input again gents.

 

[ngbeau89]

Trucks back together everything's working no leaks no smoke etc. Was running fine earlier. Now i'm having a problem with the engine cranking but not turning over. It's not reading RPMs either while i'm trying to turn it over. Se la vi. If it's not one thing it's another.

 

[ngbeau89]

I had these codes last time i did a PCM hookup:
P1230 - ABS
C1095 - Brakes
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire
P0741 - Torque Converter to Transmission Solenoid Bad
P1000 - OBD II
P1260 - Anti-Theft

Can that P1260 code be the culprit? I can smell gas burning, it was running fine (no rough idle) earlier, so i doubt its the new spark plugs or coil pack and wires. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it and ever since its not turning over. The inertia switch isn't tripped. The battery has a good connection (no rust, corrosion, or loose wires) but the RPMs not being read while its trying to turn over is throwing me off... Any ideas? If you all lived near i'd buy everyone a damn beer for sure.