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99 Ford Explorer suspension question

S

Sedare

Member
Joined
August 7, 2017
Messages
42
Reaction score
2
City, State
Spokane WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 5.0 EB
I am about to replace the upper control arm/ball joint on the driver side, and I noticed that the UCA on the passenger side looks entirely different with 2 pieces, and the driver side is One unit with Bushings and ball joint in the same unit. Was one upgraded or was this an OEM difference?

Also, its snowy outside, so I havent crawled under the car yet... but fuel filters come in 2 or 3 hose versions.
I have the V8 AWD, what one do I need? If its inconsistant ill shimmy under and look.
 



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If memory serves, the passenger side one comes different from the factory. I replaced it with the Moog upgraded UCA's and new eccentric bolts and it's been a great ride. Another upside is that you can actually replace the ball joints in the Moog UCA's.

Disclaimer: I have the 4.0L SOHC so YMMV.

Sorry, don't know about the fuel filters, but I'd be interested in hearing.
 












swshawaii said:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...wo+piece+upper+control+arm&o=date&c[node]=100

http://www.moogparts.com/pdf/did-you-know/english/DYK10_106_En.pdf
Click to expand...


Sometimes, it is harder knowing what words to put in the search window compared to just being willing to search. I expected a more technical definition. :)

The 2nd result of the search you linked actually gave a logical reason as to WHY one would choose a 2 piece vs a 1 piece....

However, why were these different in the first place?
 












BTW, I have this info on hand only because I replaced both OE uppers recently due to torn ball joint boots. Price of these one piece Moog premium "Problem Solver" (K or CK Series) has come down significantly in recent years. Problem is when the upper control arms are removed, alignment changes to some degree, and must be at least checked. Camber kits "may" also be required to get camber and caster into spec.

Right
CK80068 K80068 Moog Control Arm With Ball Joint | eBay

Left
Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly Front Left Upper Moog K8708T | eBay
MOOG K8708T Front Left Upper Control Arm And Ball Joint Assembly | eBay

Moog Control Arms: CK, K, or RK? - Suspension.com

List of Useful Threads - Stock 2nd Gen Forum's Best Threads
 






I was already leaning towards this one.

Suspension Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly Front Left Upper MOOG RK8708 | eBay

Its the RK, but at 305k miles, This is very likely the last time I replace this unless I do an astronomical overhaul to this rig and I it goes to 400k+.

It could happen, but not if my wife has anything to say about it. She wants a newer generation Explorer. I told her to go dig out $4000 and we will talk. :p
 






See no reason why you would opt for an "economy" service grade UCA from the same manufacturer when you can get the premium UCA with a replaceable ball joint and better bushings for about the same price including shipping. My gripe was after buying both Moog Problem Solver UCA's for $100 shipped, having to pay $120 for a thrust angle alignment from a specialist that is qualified to work on modified suspensions. Also replaced both outer tie rods at the same time. My ST is lowered 2.75" front and 3" rear and I already had camber kits installed. Here's another UCA link for the K8708T right side one piece UCA.

Curious why the seller is not showing the ball joint rubber dust boot in pics.
MOOG K8708T Front Left Upper Control Arm And Ball Joint Assembly | eBay
 






swshawaii said:
See no reason why you would opt for an "economy" service grade UCA from the same manufacturer when you can get the premium UCA with a replaceable ball joint and better bushings for about the same price including shipping. My gripe was after buying both Moog Problem Solver UCA's for $100 shipped, having to pay $120 for a thrust angle alignment from a specialist that is qualified to work on modified suspensions. Also replaced both outer tie rods at the same time. My ST is lowered 2.75" front and 3" rear and I already had camber kits installed. Here's another UCA link for the K8708T right side one piece UCA.

MOOG K8708T Front Left Upper Control Arm And Ball Joint Assembly | eBay
Click to expand...

Hmm, I see your point. How hard is the boot to install? That one does not come ready to install, or does it retain warranty. Usually things I would focus on when getting a decent brand. Im sure I can find one that is fully functional for a little bit more. I have plenty of budget for it.

Now to figure out why my transfer case is making a noise at low speeds.

**EDIT** Also, I was only replacing left side. Previous owner replaced right side just before I bought it.
 






Moog Problem Solver (K or CK Series) is a no brainer here, especially when close to the same price. Moog has two dust boot installation methods if they are not pre-installed. First uses a channel lock plier to snap it on to the ball joint flange. I was afraid of slipping and cutting the boot, even with a rag. 2" PVC pipe coupler from the hardware store fits over the boot perfectly, and can be used with a piece of wood and a hammer to install in seconds. Also, DON"T overfill with grease. Found out the hard way and filled with the truck still on jack stands. Lowered too fast and popped the boot. Since Moog dust boots are not sold separately I found a deal on an open box K80012 on eBay and only used the boot.
 
























I just did this last weekend, along with my unit bearings. I had a bearing going bad, and when trying to see which one it actually was, I found that both upper BJ’s were bad, with the driver side being terrible. I went with the AC Delco Professional arms.
The driver side was the most difficult of both sides. I have a 99 LTD with the V8. The difficulty was getting both upper bolts removed. There are some fuel lines and brakes lines which were making it difficult to slide the bolts out. With a little prying and cussing, I was finally able to get the bolts out enough to remove the arm. Reinstalling the bolts, and getting the rectangle washers (or are they alignment keys?) was a little easier. I have not had an alignment done yet, but the truck drives straight and true now. No more pulling or wandering. And seeing how everything fits in there, the new arm bolted up to the exact same location. So unless the new arm dimensions are physically different from the original somehow, I am not seeing where an alignment is going to gain much. I could be wrong though.
 






^ Oh yeah, forgot to mention that PITA rear UCA bolt hard line clearance. Probably the single most difficult bolt to remove on the vehicle without cutting. Problem is the bolts have pressed on washers that can't be removed for added clearance from the steel lines. Most managed to remove it intact by removing hard line clips, gently prying, and wiggling the bolt out. And LOT'S of time and patience. LOL

Even some of EF's resident pros resort to "hacking" that bolt. LOL
How to: - Replacing Camber/Caster Bolts
 






swshawaii said:
^ Oh yeah, forgot to mention that PITA rear UCA bolt hard line clearance. Probably the single most difficult bolt to remove on the vehicle without cutting. Problem is the bolts have pressed on washers that can't be removed for added clearance from the steel lines. Most managed to remove it intact by removing hard line clips, gently prying, and wiggling the bolt out. And LOT'S of time and patience. LOL

Even some of EF's resident pros resort to "hacking" that bolt. LOL
How to: - Replacing Camber/Caster Bolts
Click to expand...
While you are here...
Both inner tie rod ends or just do the one that is bad? Its going to get a front end alignment anyways, curious of your opinion.
 






As with brakes, bearings, etc. I ALWAYS replace BOTH SIDES when doing suspension, brake, steering, and other work. That includes rear. Same mileage on both sides, correct?. I suggest you do EVERYTHING needed BEFORE getting an alignment, unless you like paying more than once. Make sense? LOL
 






I usually do both sides unless I am strapped for cash. Ill pick up 2 tie rod ends. If you get around to it, link me your recommendation. You have had wise input so far, I would be a fool to reject it at this point.
 









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