ABS Issues

[hillbillybuddha]

Just bought a 1994 Ford Explorer Sport 2WD Manual Trans (M5R1) It has a few issues that I'll be addressing one at a time (hopefully with the help of this forum)

Yesterday I decided to change the front brakes. I was squeaking a bit and I could feel the ABS rattling in the brake peddle even with very light braking. After getting the wheel off, I discovered both that pads and the rotors were F'ed up. The pads were down to metal and the rotors had a ridge on the outside lip about 1.5 to 2mm. There didn't seem to be much rotor left.

Well, I had the pads but I didn't have the rotors; I wasn't about to put those old pads back on and my girl had the other car, so I put the new pads on, ran to Autozone, bought new rotors (guy asked if it has ABS because I guess it's different rotors but If I'm NOT mistaken the 94 and earlier Explorers only had rear ABS??? But I got the rotors for ABS and they look exactly the same as the old messed up rotors I removed), inner and outer bearings and seals and a few quarts of DOT3 because the fluid was the color of old, strong Turkish coffee.
I guess I should say here that the brakes basically acted the same as before I changed them but were a bit more responsive and the truck stopped pulling to the left during braking (I don't believe it was an alignment issue)

Got home, pulled off the new pads and old rotors; Flushed the brake fluid but after 3 full quarts could only get the color from thick dark reddish coffee to watered down iced tea. Huge improvement but not perfect. Cleaned up everything; packed with high temp grease; fitted new seals and put everything back together.

Now I'm having issues. I drove it around the neighborhood and braking became really hard and very loud. When pushing the brake pedal it freezes up and only goes about a half an inch down or so and you can hear and feel the ABS kick in very loud thud thud thud and a hydraulic whining before it softens up and pushes to the floor in a somewhat normal manner. Pumping the brakes made no noticeable difference. It's almost like the ABS is fighting me braking and then gives up and turns off and allows me to brake. The yellow ABS light turns on as soon as the ABS system gives up and lets me brake...

Alright guys, I'm all ears. I've got a code reader I bought for my 91 Bronco that should work on my Explorer once I research how to do the KOEO and KOER tests for this truck...

Anyway, This is going to be my Daily Driver so my girl doesn't have to drive me around... So I could really use suggestions.

Thanks,

Joel

 

[hillbillybuddha]

I'm thinking of just pulling the ABS fuse until I can get under it again and check the ABS sensors which will probably be in about four days. Anybody got a picture of where these sensors are and what they look like?

Joel

 

[Roadrunner777]

When you had the rotors off, you might have noticed a small silvery can behind it. That's the front ones. They work with the tooth ring on the backside of the rotor. The back one mounts in the top of the rear diff. The front sensors take a very particular 12 point socket, but I forget the size. You should be able to see pictures at any parts site, such as Oriellys or rockauto.

I'm in Northern Minnesota, and I can tell you, even when the ABS is working properly, it is less than ideal. I started getting ABS warning light a few months ago, intermittent. I may just pull the fuse permanently next time I am under the hood.

Anyway, to each his own, good luck!

 

[wood1]

You probably didn't have a problem with your ABS until you bled the brakes, sounds like the issue was just the fact that you were down to metal on metal.

I run without ABS myself. You may have air in the ABS module, if you do you will have to take it to a shop to have it bled. You need a special connector or harness or something to run the ABS module to bleed it.

 

[hillbillybuddha]

Yeah, when I bled the brakes I used one of those cheap "one man" systems. I had always done it with two people before, or with a nice one person set up with a pressure pump and gauge. I really didn't feel very comfortable using the cheap system. Wish I hadn't now. I'm going to rebleed the system with a friend this time.

Is air in the ABS system impossible to get out without the special connector, is there no work around? And does the ABS share the same fluid as the normal breaking system?

Thanks for your input and suggestions.

Joel

 

[wood1]

I'm not sure as I've never had to deal with it. I would pull the fuse and see if that solves your problems. If you pedal is soft then there is air in the system, if not I don't have much to offer... The one man systems should be OK, just a vacuum pump and a jar? I always find I have to put a little teflon tape on the bleeder to see when there is no more air in the caliper but maybe I'm not doing it quite right.

 

[hillbillybuddha]

I've used the one man systems with the vacuum pump once before, this one didn't have the pump. Maybe I didn't use it right. Well, I'll be pulling the fuse and driving it to work. I'll report back late tonight or tomorrow.

 

[hillbillybuddha]

The good news is that the brakes worked beautifully after I pulled the two fuses that control the ABS system. But as my girlfriend said, pulling the fuses to make the brakes work is like putting a piece of electrical tape over the blinking "12:00" on a VCR. And she's right.
So regardless of whether I decide to ever use the ABS, I will have to figure out how to fix the issues that are causing the problem. But it'd nice to know I can drive it until then.

Joel

 

[wood1]

Your girlfriend is a very wise woman...

I have given up on Ford's old ABS design and run without it. I put a switch in there so I could shut it off and found I liked it so much better without I run with it off all the time.

 

[Jason94sport]

My bet are bad ABS sensors. Unless the ABS system was open to air there shouldn't be any air in it. A regular brake bleed shouldn't effect the abs.
And FYI 93-94 had 4 wheel abs, earlier & some early 93 models had rear only.