ABS light on

[tjsxplodr]

I went to the top of this forum and looked at the ABS test connector testing, and tried it, however, I could not see any blinks at all. Is there something I am doing wrong? I was told yesterday that I needed front brakes badly, but that it would cost me $87/hr at the local tire shop to have them check out why the ABS light is on.
I did the jumper test, but my light wouldn't blink....any suggestions?

 

[Roadrunner777]

Actually, nothing very constructive or insightful. I guess I would check voltages going to the ABS module, I think the ABS has a relay, and fuses of course.

I got my Exp last winter and never really gave the ABS a good trial. The one time it became involved, I didn't like the way it modulated the brakes. It was on an off ramp near my home and I know I could have stopped 20 feet sooner without it. Pretty good chance I'll pull the relay if I get surprised like that again. Say good-night HAL.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Where is the module?

 

[Roadrunner777]

I believe it is on the same bracket as the vapor canister, next to the ABS test socket.

 

[tjsxplodr]

In the engine compartment? Im sorry im just trying to get a good idea where its at.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Engine compartment... If you did the ABS test, the connector you used is within inches of the module. Find the coolant reservoir, it's further back, and it is on a bracket that is perpendicular to the fender, so it sticks out towards the engine. If you know where the vapor recovery canister is, it's on the same bracket but the other side.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Yeah, as soon as I had posted that comment, I went and looked and found it. I pulled both relays, and now the light is off. I'm wondering if my relays are bad?


When I pulled both relays and both fuses, the light turned off, when I pulled the relays only the light went out, when I pulled the relays and left the fuses, the light was on. Does that mean anything?

 

[Roadrunner777]

Sounds like good power. I don't have the schematics in front of me, but it sounds good. I'm going to suggest the possibility that you may need a new ABS computer, which is junkyard or ebay, should be less than $50.

Anybody else have any thoughts?

 

[tjsxplodr]

Ok, once I get paid, I'm gonna see if I can afford to have it diagnosed. If not, then I will just keep the relays and fuses out so I dont have to see that light lol.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Yeah, I don't know what else to tell you.

If I had to pay $50 to fix my ABS, I'd pull the fuses and call it a day. I don't mean to dismiss a design so easily, it was an icy off-ramp and I was in 4x4. I probably had all 4 wheels at different speeds, so not surprised it got confused. Maybe it's great for rain, I don't know. My problem is usually ice.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Exactly. Im not real sure its even worth taking care of since ive never used my brakes like that. Is it a hazard to not have it working right And have the fuses and relays out?

 

[StryctNy9e]

The ABs system on first gens are made up of % main components, ABS computer, HCU(hydralic control unit), front wheel sensors(one on each side), and rear ABS sensor. I have a bar HCU or have air trapped in it, you need a special tool to bleed the HCU and it is very hard to find. So you generally have to bring the vehical to a dealer to have the HCU bled properly. What makes the HCU so special is that there are 6 small pistons inside the HCU, 2 control front right brake, 2 control front left, and one for each rear brake.These pistons have to be opened individually to be bled properly. Hense the special tool. On each front spindle there is a sweel sensor those can go bad or get messed up from the exciter teeth on the rotor. Your rotor has teeth on the inside that your sensor picks up and esentially tells the ABS computer how fast you are going and then the computer knows how much brake to use. If you have broken exciter teeth this will throw off your ABS. The rear sensor is kind of genaric since we dont have rear disks brakes, i dont know hbow to tell if they are bad, but a new one is $15 at a auto parts store.

I would find a local auto parts store that does free ABS testing, I know autozone and Orilleys does this, if they have the tool and it is not rented out or whatever. You can only do this test when your ABS light is on, and if you shutdown your car it will reset the computer and the light will go off. So have a friend stay in the car and leave it running while your ABS light is on and ask if they have a ABS code reader and it should tell you the code and you can diagnose from there.

I have had severe AbS problems and have done a ton of research, I hope this helps you better understand how the ABS systems work on the 1st Generation Ford Explorer.

I forgot to mention if you have a dealer bleed your brakes it usually cost $200.

 

[tjsxplodr]

It all really just makes me wanna take it to autozone and see if they have an ABS tester. If not, then I'm not going to worry about it, I'll just leave out the relays and fuses.

If its really not that big of a deal, then I wont worry about it. If there's something wrong with the abs, then it will eventually get looked at.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Sounds good. Long story short, I think running ABS is a personal preference. It's nice to fall back on, but it's a bad substitute for safe driving.

They are pretty good about isolating systems to fuses, so I don't think anything else is riding on a fuse labeled ABS. I don't have my books with me at the moment, so I cannot confirm. If I see any problems, I'll add to this post.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Thanks! I'll Keep you updated on what happens.

 

[huntman58]

Been running my 93 with the ABS disabled for over two years now and find I have way better and stronger brakes now then with it. The wife even calls them touchy as it takes little pressure and they are stopping you like now were before you had more travel and had to apply more pressure to get the same stopping from the brakes. now that’s just how I find it on my truck and that is from over 100,000 miles with ABS and now over 40,000 with out and this includes all weather conditions and offroading as the truck has been to areas of ice covered roads along with snow pack and also dry to wet roads both on and off highway.

Now can not say its safe or not just that I have been doing it for some time now what you do and how it works for you is your call but also remember if you get an insurance discount for having them and something happens it may be best if there in working order at the time.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Yeah, until I can afford to get it fixed it will be disabled. I cannot say for sure if there's any difference unless I drive some more

 

[something9000]

my abs module literally exploded one day while i was driving scaring the living hell out of me ive been fine without it unless i really jab at the brakes and the rear tires loose grip..however if you get in an accident and they look at the truck and find out its been disabled it might not go so well

 

[Roadrunner777]

TJ, I think you will do fine.

I was going to make this comment earlier, but it turned long on me and I was starting to state the obvious, so maybe I'll condense and try again:

Is driving without ABS safe? It should be, but ultimately, it depends on the skillset of the driver. Good driving skills include noticing when driving conditions decay and adjusting accordingly, slowing down, and increasing following distance.

I have 35 years total driving experience and 10 years of daily occupational driving experience in Northern Minnesota... going to remote locations and working on equipment. I am 24/7 on-call every other week. My employer rarely restricts driving for weather, and my state does not allow tire chains or studs. My employer also likes to buy cheap company cars. Most of my driving was in Ford Escorts and Chev Cavaliers. I have learned to drive in bad conditions, and almost all of that was in cars without ABS. I am totally comfortable with the idea of disabling my ABS.

Here is the flip side:

Suppose your daughter has just earned her drivers license and is out driving with her girlfriends. Driving down the highway, chatting and singing, she misses the first sign that says 'Bridge Out'. She passes the second sign and it registers that there just might be an issue more important than Jason Timberlake. She sees the road block, screams and slams on the brakes. Everybody starts screaming as the car decelerates.

Did the car have ABS?

Yes - They stop at the edge of the bridge, wipe off the seats, and drive home.

No - A state trooper wakes you up.

Is it safe to drive without ABS? You decide.

 

[rustbucketMI]

Is it safe to drive without ABS? You decide.

I think this is a pretty good summation. It is possible to stop in a shorter distance without triggering the ABS. My company actually trains its top drivers to do this as a part of our limit handling. That being said you have to be a good and very aware driver to do this every time.

I few comments for clarification. The rear brakes are not controlled independently. A previous comment indicated that the left and right rear brakes were controlled by two pistons in the ABS module. While technically this is true I felt the clarification was necessary.

The ABS light will also go on if the motor is bad. I currently have that problem. Those motors are not being built by anyone any more, so replacement is less than ideal. If that is your problem I suggest taking off the motor you have and cleaning it out. The wire coils shouldn't go bad. If that does not fix the problem you can go to a junk yard and try to find a good one.