ABS question

[javey]

Well I'm not wanting to go spend $100 at the stealership to get my ABS codes read, but I am still having this ABS light issue...here's what I've changed:

Rear ABS sensor and harness
Front Left Hub Assembly W/ABS Sensor
Checked fusible links and fuses, all good
Changed rear diff. fluid since I saw some particles stuck to my RABS sensor
Suctioned out brake fluid

Now, the only one that has stopped this problem is the newest thing I've done, suctioning out the brake fluid. The brake fluid as you all know is transparent, and when I sucked the fluid out of the master cylinder, it was a dark dark brown to black color...could this cause the problem? It has been off ever since I have done that, and once before when I changed out the fluid the light went out for a while as well. It seems to be the only way to make it stop, at least for any length of time. The light is not on when I first start up the car, but usually after I hit the brakes one or two times, and I am thinking that is because the fluid is moving at that point. Anyways, if this will help it, I am going to let the fluid circulate for about a week through the system and then siphon it off again, since brake fluid is so cheap. Anyone else have any input? Maybe this will also help somebody in the future!

 

[javey]

Nobody has an opinion on this?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check WWW.Veryuseful.Com for a list of ABS codes. Count the flashes of the light to see what code you have. Bleed the system, and use new brake fluid. Do the brakes feel spongy? The old fluid could have moisture or air in it.

 

[HR57]

Is it true that when a car/truck has ABS brakes that they have to be
Pressure Bled?
I seem to remember reading that some where, Or I may just be going daffy in my old age, again.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The solenoid block has to be cycled on 4 wheel ABS, but not on rear ABS systems (RABS). They make a special tool for this. Scanners have this function built in.

 

[joe doe]

when my abs light came on all i did was replace the rear abs sensor in the rear housing and that solved the issue.you got something else going on there .

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you check the front ABS sensors?

 

[javey]

Just changed both front hubs

 

[BrooklynBay]

The code will tell you what is wrong. It might be cheaper to get the code read than to keep throwing parts at it. Some places like Autozone read codes for free, but I don't know if their scanners could read ABS codes. The wiring, solenoid block, or a defective ABS module might be the cause of the problem since everything else was already replaced.

 

[javey]

Well I think I figured it out, according to my manual I changed out the 4 Wheel Anti-Lock System (4wABS) module relay and the Heated Backlight relay, and now the ABS works fine...my question is, what is the heated backlight, and is it ok to not work until I get in the other relay that I ordered?

 

[joe doe]

its actually ok if the whole abs system doesnt work.you will still have brakes.did your light go out now?you sure been thru the wringer with this problem.i know replacing those front hubs cost you alot.i paid 175.00 for a hub thru autozone and turns out i didnt need it .the dealer wanted 275.00.
so i have an extra hub here thats still good if anyone needs one.had i jumped in this thread sooner i could have told you how to test your sensors in the hubs with a vom.so anyway did the light go out now?i can steer you towards a good code reader cheap if you want one .i got a real good one that does live data stream and everything for like under 40 bucks i think it was.tells you what the code means so you dont even need to look it up .and live data streaming .got it from ebay but the guy has a website too.glad you got it figured out those lights can be annoying.

 

[joe doe]

looks like they went up in price now since i got mine ..now 44.50..copy n paste the link if you want one "http://www.diydiagnostics.com"scroll down mid page and you,ll see it .they work great,powered by your auto.these are for the obdII systems.and i am in no way affiliated with these people just passing on a good buy .

 

[gijoecam]

A regular code scanner isn't going to tell you squat about the ABS or airbag codes. Those are stored in teh GEM not the PCM, and a standard OBD-2 code reader is limited to the PCM codes.

For a fraction of what you've spent on the parts, you could have had a dealership or any shop with an NGS tester (or equivalent) scan the codes and pinpoint the problem. In some cases (this being one of them) it's worth the $75-$80 diagnostic fee to prevent throwing good money after bad.

-Joe

 

[javey]

A regular code scanner isn't going to tell you squat about the ABS or airbag codes. Those are stored in teh GEM not the PCM, and a standard OBD-2 code reader is limited to the PCM codes.

For a fraction of what you've spent on the parts, you could have had a dealership or any shop with an NGS tester (or equivalent) scan the codes and pinpoint the problem. In some cases (this being one of them) it's worth the $75-$80 diagnostic fee to prevent throwing good money after bad.

-Joe

So nobody knows what the heated backlight is?

 

[gijoecam]

So nobody knows what the heated backlight is?

Sounds like another name for 'Rear Window Defroster' to me...

 

[javey]

Me too, but I just want to make sure that I didn't pull another important relay .

 

[javey]

Hmm, it seems that my problem is back...what else is even POSSIBLE to be causing this? (Other than the ABS module...if it's that...oh ****)

 

[javey]

Anyone?

 

[javey]

Hmm, guess the stealership is going to get a whole paycheck of mine since nobody can figure this out

 

[gijoecam]

Call around to some local shops and see if they are able to run the ABS codes. You'll find them here and there, and they may only charge you 1/2 hour or less to check them. It never hurts to ask. I know of a place that does here locally, but that won't do you much good...

-Joe