adjust your TPS (another free hp mod)

[DonM]

Ok It didnt take much drilling to get it up to .96. The metal sleeves were a pain in the ass to drill out but I got them.

Im dead on .96 now and the engine idles very smooth. Almost perfect!!

Ive been dealing with a rough idle for so many years. Back in January I bought a Apten Chip and the chip really helped my idle. Now my idle is where I think it should be.

However, my engine still has a miss. I may never find that problem.

Jason_25, did you ever get your Apten Chip? If so, did it help any?

 

[Kamaaina]

Well, after reading all of the testimonies here about this TPS adjustment I just had to try it. Before the adjustment my TPS was reading 1.104 volts. I had a rough idle which was probably due to a rich mixture judging from the voltage reading. Removed the TPS and it had the metal sleeves so, with my drill press, I enlarged it just enough to allow some adjustability. Slapped it back on and adjusted it to .968 volts (close enough). Noticable improvement in the idle; smooth and no stumbling. As far as throttle response, I guess there is some improvement (maybe psychological, though). I'm just hoping that my gas mileage will improve as my "X" is a kind of thirsty. My thanks to "james t" for this trick.

 

[B94Sport]

I just read about this last night and since I was already working on the Ex this weekend, decided to try it. Before the mod, my TPS was giving a reading of 1.16 volts. Took it out, drilled out the metal sleeves, and replaced it. It took some time to get it to .96, but I did it. I can't start the Ex yet since a lot of the EGR system is removed, but I will see how it goes later!

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Guys, I think there's an easier way to adjust this......There's a stop screw for the throttle blade on the lower passenger side of the throttle body.

All you have to do is change this screw setting to get the correct TPS .96v, since the throttle plate is directly connected to the TPS.

If moving the screw changes the idle, the PCM will compensate through the IAC.

 

[james t]

not really. that set screw is an idle adjustment, and it will only show a change in the TPS reading because it is changing the idle speed. the computer will compensate, however; it still wont get an accurate reading. i cant think straight right now, maybe someone else can explain what im trying to say...

 

[enyego]

I tried this Wednesday. Took half an hour, which was well sp;ent, and here's why: The truck always took so long to fire, I was always letting off of the key before my truck actually starts. The truck now starts noticeably quicker. Response seems quicker. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Garth]

Runnin'OnEmpty,
Have you tried this and what was the reading before and after if this worked for you?

There is a can of something in front of the screws that holds my tps in place, I think I might have to pay a visit to Sears to get the required tool to do the job.
I really want to get mine done but everytime I try something else comes up.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Garth and James, I have "fiddled" with the screw adjustment, but haven't taken a voltage reading from the TPS yet. Adjusting the screw will change the amount of air going past the throttle blade, and will also change the TPS signal voltage (since the TPS is directly connected to the plate).

When I noticed a change in how the transmission shifted, I turned the screw back out to the original setting. (The wife drives it, and I didn't want to make any drastic changes until I had time to do it correctly.)

If time permits tonight, I'll get a voltage reading off it, and post what I find.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

OK, I finally got a voltmeter on it tonight. It was almost dead on, looked to be about 1v on the signal wire. I turned the screw out about 1/4 turn and got a reading just under 1v. (I was using an analog voltmeter along with my calibrated eyeballs.) I started it up and couldn't tell any difference, although mine was pretty much in spec already.

By the way, my Haynes manual says the specs are from .5v to 1.5v at closed throttle. This seems like a wide variance to me.......especially since so many here have gotten improvements with minor changes.

 

[zensius]

Alright, I finally got around to checking mine. I get a reading of -5.00 on one wire. Using the black TPS wire as ground. But the other wire isn't coming up anywhere near .96. I'm getting a reading of -4.06! Is this possible? Please help. I want better throttle response. I want better mileage.

 

[james t]

um, if you're really getting a 4.somthing with the key on, then you are set at wide open throttle @ idle. i dont think it would even run. did you recheck everything? if so, then re-check again.

 

[murdach]

tp

I just checked my Ranger 2.9
it has always had bad gas mileage(arounf 15 city)
I think thats bad every one tells me I
should be getting about 19.
I checked the tps and it was on .941, should
I try this?

 

[AUGIDAWG]

I have a 95 2-wheel drive XLT with a 4.0
Just had the transmission rebuilt, replaced the TPS, IAC, Intake temp sensor, speed sensor, RABS sensor.
When coasting, and pushing on throttle, transmission shifts down too many gears all the way to 1st, then immediatly back to 2nd.
The guy that rebuilt it swears that it is something telling the trans to do this. He has test driven it twice, and claims it can't be anything in the transmission.

My TPS was at about 1.08 volts. I rotated it to exactly .96 volts, and the shifting problem seems to have gotten worse. At wide open throttle, it reads about 3.88 volts.

My question is, where did you get the magic number of .96 volts? The Hanes manual says 1.5 volts or less, and wide open should be about 5 volts.

After bringing sensors back because the Ford dealership gave me the wrong parts for my 95, it seems there are different calibration codes and setting for each batch of Explorers for that year model.

So, is .96 volts perfect for every year 4.0 Explorer?
Where did the data come from? One guy with a dyno?
From Mr. Ford himself? Head of Ford engineering?
God?

I'm going to try and rotate it as far as I can to get the highest voltage, see if I can get 1.5 volts, and then check if it shifts the same way.

Thanks.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Augi, my manual says the TPS idle voltage can range between .5v and 1.5v and still be in range. I have seen the .96v mentioned for many years (along with 1v), and suspect that it's just the best mid-point range of the specification.

One thing you might check is the ground wire to the TPS. If you have a questionable ground on this wire, that would explain the low WOT voltage, and the poor transmission shifting. If a bad ground wire is indeed the problem, you can splice in another wire and run it to a nearby engine bolt.

 

[Nate1]

Any SOHC owners done this? Results?

 

[AUGIDAWG]

I forgot to mention, that the line voltage was not 5 volts, but 4.6 volts.

I rotated the sensor all the way advanced (higher voltage), didn't make any difference. Idle, shifting, or acceleration. I think the difference between .8 volts and 1.1 volts is all in your head.

Also, since my last brake job, the ABS light is on.
You guys have told me that this is not related in any way.
Is this true?

Thanks.

 

[MrMatt]

Thanks for the right-up! I'm going to check it on my 98' Moutaineer next week sometimes and see what I find, it idles pretty good so I'm guessing its close to being on but doesn't hurt to check.

And thanks for the idea on the original throttle-cable-mod, can't believe that people wouldn't believe you, worked wonders for my 91' and 93'

-Matt

 

[Iggy flywheel]

Any tips on getting the screws off. Those buggers are tighter then a frogs #&#. I check it volts 1.3 so I think I give it a try if I could get it off

 

[ALYZ1FLR]

JamesT. Good one!

I have been doing this one for years , but never thought to bring it to the board. When I get time I will take some pics of the adjustment for the timing pick up/ crank trigger. Its one I picked off the Mustangers at the local track. It helps alot for the mystery detonation pingers no one can fix. And if you dont ping you can advance a little to. I dont know if it would work the same for the cam position sensor guys. Good write up.

 

[brendan]

I just used a power drill to get the screws off. They are tight, but hold on they'll come out!