adjust your TPS (another free hp mod)

[xxblackxx]

so, I take it that this mod would work on a 1996 3.0 in a ranger, right?

 

[jrgaylor]

I did this adjustment a couple weeks ago, the intial voltage was .7 , something so I adjusted it to .96 and I think that my mileage went down, but ihave done a few other mods and I do not know if they affected the mileage, I am going to bring the voltage back down and see how it affects the MPG and idle quality.
Joe

 

[Kamaaina]

I did this mod a while back and my idle did improve significantly with a small improvement in pick up performance. My initial voltage setting was high (rich). I just readjusted it again to .945 volts (lean) to see if my gas mileage would improve. My gas mileage increased by about 4-5 mpg but I have the rough idle again (this time from a lean mixture). I decided that the big increase in gas mileage far outweighs the slight idle roughness. It's a matter of preference...but you can't have both. Thanks again to "james t" for shedding some light on this mod.

 

[AUGIDAWG]

I have been running it for a few days set at .946 after disconnecting the battery to clear the CPU. It ran fine, idled fine, still downshifts wierd.
I just set it to .97, full throttle is 4.66 volts, disconnected the battery, drove it for 40 miles taking it easy for first 30 miles. I can't tell any difference between .946 volts and 1.12 volts.
I just had the brake system flushed to try and get rid of the ABS code C1206 (Rear inlet ISO valve circuit fault), but it's still there.
The transmission guy at the Ford dealer said, even if the transmission and brake sysyem aren't communicating to each other, the error code is still going to the same CPU. The CPU may think that there is a dragging brake, or locked brake. The CPU then tells the transmission to "get out of trouble" by giving the signal to downshift all the way to first, or is in some kind of limp home mode. He wasn't positive, but he thinks if I clear the ABS code, by getting the problem fixed so the light goes out, my tranny will shift right again.

What do you think, and is there a way to make the brake system "invisable" to the CPU buy pulling a fuse or something? This is for testing only.
I don't want to get a new $1200 hydrolic control unit if I don't have to.

Thanks

 

[2001ExpSport]

I adjusted my TPS without elongating the holes from .94 to .96(total time 7 minutes)

I did get noticable throttle response increase, better shift response and better gas mileage.

If you know your truck well enough, you'll be able to tell if this mod worked or not. I know the mileage of every tank I run through it and how it runs any given day depending on weather conditions. It my be sick, but I know my truck well.

For the past 2 yrs I have always gotten 190-210(17.5 gal) miles per tank regardless of my driving habits. I get the same gas from the same brand name. Maybe one or two strays.

I just ran two tanks and produced 267 and 261 miles per tank. If that is not proof that this does actually work, then I don't know what is. I knew there was a reason I didn't buy a chip.

BEST MOD YET!!

 

[stretch]

Re: adjust your TPS (another free "throttle response" mod)

Originally posted by james t
were is it located on the engine?
the TPS sensor is right on top of the throttle body. you will need to remove a few covers/brackets to get to it. it will have a small cover over it, and will have 3 wires. the small cover snaps off. here is were it is located on the 5 liter- [/B]

Mine wasn't on the top of the throttle body, it was on the left side. (Picture the TB rotated counter-clockwise 1/4 turn.) The hard lines of the air conditioning system made it a real b***h! But with the help of my brother I was able to finally get it done. The before voltage was 1.07. The after is is 95.4. I haven't taken it for a drive but the idle does seem smoother. I'll let you know how it drives later.

 

[X24]

Well, after hearing you guys say that your idle has smoothed out after adjusting it just a little bit, maybe I'll mess with mine. It was 1.06.

 

[Garth]

stretch
What did you use to pull those screws, a long or short screwdriver? I was unable to get mine loose and it started to wear out the head of the screws.

 

[karl_burns]

Ditto x24

I've been following this thread very casually, but now I can't wait to get home from work tomorrow afternoon to check my TPS and see if there's a difference!
Karl

 

[wilson_nick]

I have been running rich lately, i think i will give this a shot when i can get my hands on some tools and stuff. augidog-my abs light comes on from time to time and then goes away, scary. It's prolly always on and i have a bad light or something.

 

[AlaskanJack]

I did this mod on my 91 Sport. It was at 1.18 before now set at .96. Idle has become rough. No noticeable gain in response.

I will start my fuel mileage check this next week since I kept forgetting to do it.

I went to do it to my wife's 94 Ex but on check it was at .94 so I left it alone since it runs great.

 

[stretch]

Originally posted by Garth
stretch
What did you use to pull those screws, a long or short screwdriver? I was unable to get mine loose and it started to wear out the head of the screws.

I used one of those small double ended screwdrivers with a 90 degree bend on each end. It wasn't easy but it made it do-able with my brother helping to hold the sensor in place. I couldn't even fit a stubby screwdriver in their! I also pressed as hard as I could to keep from damaging the screw head. Here's a pic of the screwdriver.

 

[Iggy flywheel]

Garth I had to use visegrips on the head to get mine off. They stripped out using screwdriver and then drill I got new screws to replace them. THis is a very good mod feels like I got a v8 in there well ok not a v8. It does have more getup and go. It better at about quarter to half throttle not as much pickup at full throttle.

 

[sonik]

This mod didn't work out too well for me. The voltage was over 1 at first, 1.06 I think. I drilled out one of the metal sleeves, which was a ***** at first then dremeled the sides enough that I could adjust it pretty well. I got it under 1 volt, around .95 I think and didn't notice much difference in throttle response or idle. What I did get was a CEL though, code 121. I rotated it back, voltage was over 1 again and I haven't seen the CEL again.

I did some searching and if I remember correctly the Mustang guys said if it's over 1, the computer makes its own adjustments. They were saying .98 was perfect since you want it as close to 1 without going over, and if it was at .99 then it might click over to 1 occasionally from engine/road vibrations, etc. Maybe it was .998, but that sounds too precise. This also might not apply to us.

Also, my truck was stock when I did this, the below mods came later.

 

[Brandons]

hmmmmmhmmmhimhaw

il probably try this, maybe, perhaps, whatever. Il check my voltage first and then after, im pretty damn sure it is seriously off, my truck idles so rough even with the maf cleaned, k&n, and other mods. This might be what ive always been looking for!. Oh yeah, my throttle response takes about 1.5seconds.

 

[Brandons]

i would also be interested in the other thread you had for a modification...

 

[karl_burns]

OK, I read the entire thread and.....

..... I can't duplicate it! First of all, the metal-lined holes in my TPS are very thin walled cylinders, so after getting through the metal, I will all but go through the entire plastic guide wall with my drill bit.
Picture:

That, and how do I measure the voltage once I'm turning my TPS? I measured it to be 1.25 Volts currently, so a little tweaking could help me out. I've noticed my engine never really idles happily anyway. But WHAT do I measure after adjusting the TPS? Won't the voltage from the wires be the same since I haven't changed anything from the power source? Or do I have to hook everything back up, start my engine and let it idle for a few minutes, and then stop, unhook, and measure again?

BTW, in case people don't have orange and green and black wires like james_t, using this picture, here's the newer model color scheme and what to measure:

TOP nothing
MIDDLE negative node
BOTTOM positive node

Thanks!
Karl

 

[Hokie]

A word to the wise... Make sure you have a decent DMM when doing this. My tester would only show 5V one one of the wires (nothing on the other 2), and after a little investigation, I found that the middle wire (the one that is tuned for 0.96V) would only read on my tester after I opened the throttle a little. Apparantly my tester will only read to 1.5V

 

[Brandons]

I used like a $400CAN tester and i got 1.01 with the ground and the other wire to be tested, and i got 1.05/1.06 with the body as a ground/ negative bat terminal.

is this really worth the effort?
its on a first gen 4.0l

 

[stretch]

origially posted by karl_burns
[B[That, and how do I measure the voltage once I'm turning my TPS? I measured it to be 1.25 Volts currently, so a little tweaking could help me out. I've noticed my engine never really idles happily anyway. But WHAT do I measure after adjusting the TPS? Won't the voltage from the wires be the same since I haven't changed anything from the power source? Or do I have to hook everything back up, start my engine and let it idle for a few minutes, and then stop, unhook, and measure again?[/B]

You want to tap into the wires coming out of the sensor (not the wire clip as you showed) while it is hooked up and the ignition is in the on position. As you rotate the sensor, the voltage will change. There is no need to disconnect the sensor once you have drilled out the mounting holes. The way I did it is while my brother held the probes on the correct wires I adjusted and tigtened down the sensor once the DMM read .954. Sorry I can't help with the metal sleeves because mine didn't have them. Hope this helps.