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Intro:
This is not a common build here on this forum, but this build is part of another long term build, that has been going on for 10 years now. I feel it is fitting to share this build here, since so much of it's companion is documented on EF. This thread is as detailed as my patience has allowed. I want to be able to help others that might be searching for methods/ideas, and "how to" for much of the build. I do belong to other Overland forums, and will link this thread from them, to share with others.

About:
This trailer is a short compact, stout, capable, high clearance, Swiss army knife of a camper. It is not a popup camper, nor is it a sleep in hard shell camper. It will offer all the creature comforts those do, but in a little different fashion. This style trailer, makes you enjoy the outdoors. You cook/dine, lounge & hot shower outside, but you sleep inside a roomy insulated roof top tent, 78" off the ground.

The tow rig:

The Black Hole

The entire build for the tow rig, has always been with this build in mind, and it has been extremely difficult to keep that to myself, and why it was built the way it was. It is a purpose build, with a specific objective.

The Objective:
To be the living quarters and storage, for off the beaten path journeys yet to come.
To have everything needed to sustain myself, and a few others, out in the middle of nowhere, only accessible by unpaved trails, such as old mining roads. Hauling all the boondocking gear behind, instead of overloading the vehicle's suspension. To minimize setup and tear down times for camping, and have camping items readily accessible, whenever needed.

The trailer needs to be capable of following wherever the tow rig goes. Matching tires, axle width, and the same, if not more height clearance as the tow rig. Sleeping & shelter for 4 comfortably, sustainable cold food storage, food prep space, gas powered cooking, AC/DC power supply, and hot showers for days at a time, are all the requirements for this build.

Goal:

This is the other half of that long term build plan. I am slow at the building and fabricating process, and this will take about a year to complete. Updates will happen as the build progresses. I have entered the 7th month of the build, and expect another 3-4 months left to get it road worthy at the least. Just like anything I have done, it never ends, and improvements will happen, as I gain experience & knowledge with what works best for me.

Baby steps:

This is the first time I have ever attempted anything like this. I am bound to make mistakes, and corrections/improvements are all but a guarantee. I do have a final vision for what I want this to be, as it has been a thought process for many many years now. Please bear with me as this thread goes. Some items won't make sense until it comes to be. I am not going to tell you how things should be done. I am just sharing how I did things on this build. Agree/disagree, like it or leave it, it's mostly a learning experience by mixing what I know, and what I had to learn, to get things as I want them. Definitely not for everybody. Heck, I know I will change things down the road, as I find ways to improve on it. That is part of the fun!



Why am I building this?
I'm Tired of ground tent camping all my life. Tired of the time it takes to set up & tear down. Tired of all the tedious packing, unpacking, moving things from place to place after every trip. Plus, I don't want a motor home that can't leave the roads.
I plan on getting lost a few times, venturing out to places unknown and unseen. We live in a large, beautifully gifted geographical location on the planet. Our own back yard is filled with amazing spectacles. Places that can only be seen on dirt trails, off the beaten paths, not by roads covered in pavement, and delivery trucks. Exploring into the dark hours of the night, and setting camp in the middle of nowhere, instead of heading back. We can traverse a lot of ground this way.

Kudos:

A few friends helped with this build, and I couldn't have got as far as it is without them. Special thanks to James, Matt, Kurt, Ryan, & Jacob. You guys rock!

A warning from the author:

This thread contains: Long drawn out boring tedious explanations, Dry humor, embarrassing anecdotes, speech in the 3rd person, countless pictures, and some content is for Mature audiences. There is a little for everybody here, but be warned, this is not your typical build thread, and not from your typical builder. I am not responsible for your emotional mood swings, due to reading this material. ;)

Edit: Progress pics as of 10/15/18. Getting closer every day!

Dr washed.jpg

RTT on front pass side full view.jpg


First real use!

Camp set 1.jpg

Camp set 2.jpg

Bat wing awning up.jpg



Current specs:
Main Frame- 12'.5"L x 48"W
Whopping 25" of ground clearance with 35" tires
Fenders- 72" Long x 14.00" Wide tapered to 0.00" in front
Cabin- 48"W x 72"L x 36"H
Overall Width - 76"
Overall Height - 68" Roof Rack lowered - 78" Roof Rack lifted
Overall Height- 80" With CVT RTT stowed - 140" RTT open & rack lifted
Dry weight- 2300#'s

2"x3"x3/16" Steel Tube Frame, with 1 pc center tongue beam from front to rear.
3500 Lb Timbren Axleless Independent suspension
10" Electric brakes
35"x12.5" Goodyear MTR's w/kevlar & matching spare
15"x10" Mickey Thompson black satin aluminum wheels
Lock N Roll off road articulating Hitch
14 Ga steel cabin walls & roof
3/4" Ply floor, stained, sealed, & 5 topcoats of acrylic gloss clear
Commercial 60 Mil Waterproof TPO membrane under belly skin
12 Ga steel Fenders on Sq frame & 2" x 3/16" Round slider tubes
Spare tire mount on cabin front
16 Ga swing out 4'W x 2'D x 24"H Tapered Tongue box
16 Ga Side boxes with Tapered front compartments
Telescoping Roof rack (12") with scissor jack actuation
Two rear 31" BAL C leveling jacks & swivel plate base
Dual 5K swivel weld ring flat plate base Tongue jacks
ARK dual wheel offroad 750 HD Tongue jack
Slider system for hidden Solar panel storage
Dual 11 lb Propane tank storage mounts
Quick Disconnect Water supply
All Stainless & Aluminum hardware, where applicable

Interior:
Front compartment 48"Wx24"Lx36"H
Two side doors, and upper 12 ga shelf with expanded metal rear wall
Rear Compartment 48"Wx48"Lx36"H
3/4" PT wood flooring, custom finish, clear satin marine topcoats.
Tie downs on frame tubes
1-60W Led rear cabin, 3-10w Led front cabin
Wiring plumbed with flex and hard conduit
Split cabin with full rear cabin deck, tie down racks

Power:
Dual Group 31 MAGM deep cycle 110 AH batteries
110 shore
100W Renogy Solar
Charge:
NOCO Marine 110v 20 amp onboard Dual smart charger
30 amp Renogy Solar charger
140 amp traveling vehicle charge, via smart charge isolater
Soon to come: 40 amp-500 watt DC-DC charger from alternator

Accessories:
4 season Ripstop CVT Mt Shasta Pioneer Stargazer RTT W/ 8'x6' Annex room - Cold weather hood, Secondary rain fly, telescopic ladder Open 56″wide x 132″long x 50″high.
Oversized high density 3" thick 56" x 96" mattress. Cold weather cover, additional secondary rain fly.
Rhino Rack 8.5' Bat Wing 270* Wrap around Awning (2019 version)
5Liter - 1.5 gpm - On demand instant hot water heater
ARB/ViAir 150 psi onboard air system
Ready Welder II
Slide out Kitchen/storage- 1/2" Baltic Birch, sealed/stained/clear coats 350# slides
ICECO VL45 portable fridge/freezer - AC/DC
Custom powder coated locking Fridge slide out.
Wireless controlled winch (upper roof rack storage, rear bumper hitch receiver)
Rear door interior fold down table
Dual 11 lb propane tanks (rear fender mounted)
Marine control panel, rocker switches w/circuit breakers, 12v battery meter, Aux outlets
30 gallon fresh water tank & 3.0 gpm instant on pump w/ inline filter
Trailer Harness Connection lock box
First Aid field kit (large)
Dual Fire Extinguisher's

LED Lighting:
Front- 2-45w dual pods w/amber fogs
Sides- 4-18w pods
Rock- 4-10w blue IP 67
Cabin- 1-60w 3 setting round rear compartment ceiling fixture, 3-10w pods front compartment
Tails/brakes/turns- 30w 6" oval
Reverse- 30w 6" oval
Markers- 3w red & amber
7 pin RV trailer harness & J box

Tongue box build:
Full box tube frame & 16 ga sheet, w/plate and tube gussets
Dual battery mount tray
Red oak Shelf for Noco dual 20 amp charger, 20amp solar charger, 12v systems (3) circuit breakers, fuse panel, main power cutoff switch
3 space divider walls & front storage shelf
Gas lift struts, 2"x 3/16" thick Aluminum lid hinge
Dual SS locking paddle latch handles
Dual 4" SS louvered vents w/bug screens
Pass thru power cord outlet with weatherproof door hatch
NOCO 110v wall power plug w/ weatherproof cover
2k locking latch to frame, & dual 7/16" clevis pins to frame
5/8" spindle for swivel action, for spare tire removal/security

Paint:
Frame- Chassis saver gloss black
Cabin Exterior- Acid etch primer & Single stage Gloss Black automotive 2k urethane
Cabin Interior- SW DTM Gloss White
Side & T boxes, All doors- Urethane Epoxy primer & Single stage Gloss Black 2k Urethane
Roof rack- Chassis saver gloss black
Fenders-Acid etch primer underneath & Urethane base topside, Black Raptor liner w/grip additive

Trim: Aluminum



Lots to add to that list up there, and I will as the build progresses. :)

I hope you enjoy the thread, as much as I have enjoyed the build itself.
 


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gmanpaint

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Micheal, someday I would like to come visit, and we could spend a few days/nights out in the dessert. I am so wanting to take some night time pictures of the Milky Way. It's on the bucket list. AZ, UT, NM, & CO trails & landscapes, is what this trailer is built for.
 


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gmanpaint

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Tongue Box:

I looked at a bunch of aluminum, pre-made bolt on units, and didn't like anything I seen for this trailer. So....I am currently building my own tongue box. This is in progress, and already has been 3 weeks of building a couple hours a night after work. I expect it to take a couple more weeks. There is more to a simple box like this, than one would imagine. I already mentioned I am slow, and this item really showcases just how slow I am. I think I am doing pretty well for a beginner, and this entire build is my first attempt doing anything like this. But, my thinking might be flawed, as I am talking about myself. lol

This box is going to store many crucial items for the operations of this trailer to function. It is what I think of as the brain box.

Frame: 1/2"x1/2"x.063" sq tube.
Bottom: 14 gauge sheet
Shell: 16 Gauge sheet
Lid: 3/4" Angle & 1/2" sq tube frame & 16 gauge sheet
Hinges: Flush mount stainless
Trim: 3/4" Aluminum angle & flat stock
Shelf: 1.5" angle bracket & 5/8" lumber
Paint: Self etching primer & single stage Jet black Urethane
Seals: 3/8" D Bulb & black silicone for interior seams.
Mounts: 5/8" Bolt and 1/8" plate, pinned to trailer frame
Dimensions: 48" wide x 18: deep x 22" high back & 18" high front

So a little back story first. I originally bought a job box that I was going to modify. After I put the spare tire on, I instantly had a "Derp" moment. I seen that I wouldn't be able to get the spare tire on/off, with this box once mounted. There is only 1" space between the tire & the box. The mount is made that it would stop the tire from rolling to the sides and off. So instead of changing the tire mount up, I decided to change the box. You would think the tire mount would have been the better choice, and much easier, but I am not wired that way. Modifying both the tire mount, & the box, made it an easy choice for me, and I chose to make a box, that would work how I wanted it too. Besides, I like being different in some things, and this is a nice personal touch, that has my name on it.

The new objective:

Build a box that can allow access to the spare tire, have room for all that is going inside, and can be worked on with my big mitts, and cosmetically flow with the trailer, to look as if it belongs. Easier said then done!!!!

So after some brainstorming over many morning cups of coffee, staring at this thing, the new idea finally hit me. Grabbed a pencil & tape measure, and put the idea to paper. Hmm... should work, let's go for it!

The build so far: Part 1

Started out with the outer frame and the 1/2" tube
Added the angle iron for the shelf mount

frame 1.jpg

frame 2.jpg

frame 3.jpg

frame 4.jpg

frame 5.jpg

frame 6.jpg

frame 7.jpg
 




gmanpaint

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Tongue box build part 2:

Once the frame was made, it was time to add some strength with a few gussets here and there. This is also the time, the brainstorming idea starts for the tire access. I figure I won't be needing to get to the tire a whole lot, and in the life time of use, how many times, will it actually be needed, compared to everyday use? Not much, and the box itself will be used daily. All I am after is to be able to get to the tire if needed.

My solution is this.... Make the box to be able to swing away enough to get the tire off/on on one side. Passenger side was chosen for access as that is the safe side here in the states, for our roads shoulders. That means, the pivot point is on the drivers side ( Left side if your in one of those weird backwards countries :p )

How to make the pivot, and how to implement it?
Because of the amount of use this would actually ever see, I chose not to use a high dollar fancy bearing type pivot. I chose to go old school, with a bolt and tube. After adding some 1/8" plate to the corner I had laying around from another project, I cut to length, a 1" schedule 40 round tube, and welded a 5/8" nut to the top of it. That pipe than got welded to the plate and lower frame. A hole was drilled thru the 2"x3" frame rail, underneath the pipe location. A 5/8" x 7" bolt with washer was ran thru the frame from below, thru the pipe, and threaded into the nut. Bam, a swivel that works.

So now that the box has to slide across the expanded sheet metal, to open up, I decided to add the floor to the top side of the lower frame tube, and let the box slide on the 1/2" tube itself. This also gives me a little space under it. Some bracing was added to the corners on the bottom with more 1/2" sq. Then the 14 gauge flooring was added. Mind you, this is all being done by hand with cut off wheels on a grinder. My nibbler won't cut this heavier gauge, no plasma cutter here, and the grinder is the next cleanest thing to cut with. I clamped some angle iron to the edge of my work table, and used another pc as a cutting guide. This work about breaks my back leaning over, and being half blind, I need my face into it. Yes, proper face protection was used. lol



The corner plate.

pivot plate gussets on.jpg


The pipe for the swivel

pivot tube & nut on 1.jpg

Support Bracing

frame gussets 1.jpg

frame gussets 2.jpg


The shelf needed a good support mount, so more angle was used. For the outer shell, more bracing was added as well.

shelf angle on.jpg

shelf angle 2.jpg


All my booger welds was cleaned up at this time, in preparations for the outside skins. I only welded on the outsides where I needed to, but all inside seams, was completely hot glued together.
 




gmanpaint

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Tongue box build part 3:

The bottom flooring was cut by using the bottom of the box itself, and traced onto a 2'x4' sheet of 14 ga. Once I cut that out, I cut all the slots for the vertical tubes and the corner swing pipe and plate. I got lucky, and only had to tweak one spot after a test fit. Stitch welded it into place on both sides, and around the tubes.

Now that there is a floor in it, the sides can be made. For the back, it was simple. I laid it on another 2'x4" sheet of 16 gauge, traced it, and cut it. It was at this time, I thought about the hinge, and decided to cut the top off and add some 1/8" flat stock for the hinge.


Bottom shelf 1.jpg

Back panel on.jpg

Before I could add any other sides, I had to finish the mount tabs. These are 4"x1/8" plates welded to the bottom frame tubes, with a 1/2" hole drilled thru the centers. They will be securing the box front with clevis pins thru the front trailer frame rails.

I am now in the process of making the rest of the side panels out of the 16 gauge sheet. Using some thick poster board, I made my templates to use on the sheets of 16 gauge. Each panel will be spot welded on the edges, and on the insides to the frame itself. the gaps left will be filled with the body seam filler. Once painted, these seams will be covered with aluminum trims to match the trailers main box.

I will update as I go, but this is as far as I am with the tongue box.

paper mock up 1.jpg

paper mock up 2.jpg

Paper mock up 3.jpg


That lower opening you see in that last picture, is where this will be mounted. It is the main control panel for the entire trailer. AC/DC 10 switch w/circuit breakers, 12v port and gauge, Marine IP67, aluminum faced with rubber gasket.It is made for a boat. Should be fine for the occasional rain.

control panel.jpg
 




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Micheal, someday I would like to come visit, and we could spend a few days/nights out in the dessert. I am so wanting to take some night time pictures of the Milky Way. It's on the bucket list. AZ, UT, NM, & CO trails & landscapes, is what this trailer is built for.

That sounds awesome. The Lost Dutchman state park actually has an astronomer come in sometimes and talk about astronomy, the stars, moon, etc. He then shows you what it is you're looking at in the sky, pointing out the stellar objects using a powerful laser pointer. Its actually very informative and entertaining.

For info on AZ trails and what is on them check this out:
Find Your Next Offroad Trail | Trails Offroad
 




Mbrooks420

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That control panel is

1E0F05F2-85D4-4CD2-BF98-C41417D87DCC.jpeg
 




gmanpaint

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Traveler.... I know someone that contributes to that website, but in CO. You almost met him, but we had no cell service when we was camping up in the Mtn's to reach him in time. lol I do like that site tho. I can't wait until I can get this thing built, and ready for adventures. Heck, it might make me move closer to where I want to be with it. :)

Thanks Mbrooks. I dig it too. Wait until you see the rest of the goodies piled up here, waiting to be installed. :D
 




Mbrooks420

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I’m excited for you. I toyed on making a fire road type of version out of a stripped down pop up, some larger tires and a bunch of repurposed stuff. But now, it seems far too sissified.
 




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If it gets where you want it to go, and makes life more enjoyable, do it to it. I waited many years to do this and wished I did something, anything, other than wait. I feel my best years have passed me, and regret not doing something earlier. I'm making up for it now, but will never recoop the lost time.
 




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Yeah, I hear you. I spent too much of my life dragging around a $3,000 bike with a $12,000 truck, I wish I had done that the other way around. Now I’m too old to ride the way I like, and don’t really feel like settling. I’m thinking I could make a serviceable most-terrain pop up in the $1,500 range and keep it under 2,000 pounds wet. That way I could pull it with whatever I get after my Mounty is no longer trustable on long trips.
 




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Hey, the Top Gear episode from a few years back with the similar trailer in it to the type you're building. It was fun to watch them at the start each pick a trailer, and know that type is the worthy off road version. The other two did not survive, one was a wide pop up kind, the other rounded/small, and pink. They were both destroyed in little time, the Bronco jack knifed pushing one backwards, and the Blazer with coaxing swerved back and forth, and flipped the pink trailer. It was a funny show.
 




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Cool, I will have to search that episode out.

I haven't watched the Top Gear USA much at all, but the few I did watch, just happened to have some kind of off road element to them.
 




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There are two of the American Top Gear shows now, the new one I like better with more "professional" drivers, William Fichtner being the lead guy. The first show had Tanner Foust in it, and two other guys, all way different from each other. That show had a lot of off road stuff, and the one I posted about, with a red Bronco in it, three stockish trucks going to Las Vegas from 400 miles east. The Jeep did the best due to the taller tires and lighter weight of course. The idiot driving the Bronco is from NY or NJ, a typical car guy, mashed the gas to climb the first rocks, broke an axle and killed the camper. But it was funny knowing he would do it.
 




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Tongue box build, part 4:

Cut out the side panels using the templates on 2'x4' x 16ga sheet. Went slow with the cutting wheels, using the metal tube guide clamped to the sheet, and the sheet clamped to the table. This process, ate up 8 Dewalt wheels, and 3 of my vertebrae. Had to take a day off to re-coop.

After cleaning the edges up with a flap disc, I clamped them in place one at a time, and welded them to the box frame. I decided to go ahead and weld the seams between panels, from top to bottom. Cleaned up the welds with 36 grit flap discs to cut most of the high spots, then switched over to 80 grit to finish the cleaning. Ground them smooth as best I could. I tried not to get into the panels with them discs, but alas, I did leave some whiskers behind.

Broke out the 6" air orbital sander, and started with 180g, then 220g, and finished off with 320g. The blow gun got the loose stuff out, then a good wipe down with a rag soaked with Lacquer thinner. I will wipe the residue off (after another cleaning) before it gets sprayed.

There are also some pinholes left behind after grinding, those and the whiskers, will be filled with plastic body filler after the epoxy primer is sprayed. I didn't bother with cleaning the interior welds. Said, meh to that.

Finished fab front  profile.jpg
Finished fab pass front.jpg
Finished fab front on view.jpg
 




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So I was curious to see what it looked like so far on the trailer. I put the pivot bolt in, and the clevis pins just to see how easy/hard it was to pivot it out for the spare tire access.

Box bolted on

Box on front view.jpg

box on behind view.jpg

Full swing out

Box full pivot out.jpg

box on pivot out front view.jpg


The unhitched stop (for now) is the Dr side flat base trailer jack. I have to remove the Pass side wheel jack to be able to swing this out. Not a big deal, just a pin to pull. 99.9% chance when it does need a tire change, the trailer will be hitched to the rig, and the jacks won't be in the way.

box on pivot stop on jack.jpg


The 1/2" clevis pins that use the tabs and thru the frame rails. For anti-rattle, this 2000 lb clamp will be installed on the pass side to the frame. It's massive. lol

box mounting hardware.jpg


After the filler, and final paint, then the aluminum trims installed all around, this will look much better, and flow into the trailer. Well..... that's what I'm hoping for. :D
 




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Hope everybody had a great weekend, and observed Memorial day with a big ole Salute, to those who sacrificed themselves, so we can do silly stuff like this in peace. :troops:

So in keeping up with the pace I set for myself, and doing at least one thing a day, on one of my projects, today was supposed to be something simple.

Decided to put the spare on, and check for clearance for the tongue box lid, so I can start making it. Was going to get the frame on the lid done today at the least. Nope, not gonna happen today. It seems my calculations was off on the tire width. The box hit it before it could swing in all the way. I was 1/2" off, and need another 1/2", for the lid to open straight up. :banghead:

Go to remove the wheel, and one stud just spun :censored:. Broke the tack welds on the stud. There was one with a little slop in the hole, and the splines didn't catch. The impact, well, it impacted, and done it's job.

So taking the mount off with the wheel on, was a heck of an ordeal. with only one lugnut on, there was a little bit of wiggle in the tire. Snaked a crows foot on an 18" breaker bar thru the holes in the wheel, to grab the bolt head. Locknuts like to spin the bolts, before breaking free. lol

With the mount off, I shortened the main tube by an inch (Cut & weld back together). Welded all 3 studs all the way around (lol). Stripped it, sprayed new primer & paint, then re-installed.

Ok, so now, I could put the spare tire on. Perfect fit this time. About 1/8" between the main box and the tire, and just over 1/2" between the tire and tongue box. That's it, just a little short of my goal. So.... That means the tongue box lid will be made differently now. :crazy: Kinda have it half thought out already. Have to reverse the piano hinge so the pin in inside the box, and hidden. That means to move the back edge forward 1/2", on the inside of the frame tube. Thinking of adding another tube there, and double the hinge load area. More work than was anticipated, but then again, this entire build has been that way. :laugh:

Spare on.jpg


Theft slower downer device
lock on spare.jpg

Spare and box on.jpg

space between box and spare.jpg


Still have to weld in the support for the big ole clamp on the inside. Man this box is a ton of work so far. The shelf isn't made yet, and still have to install all the James Bond stuffs!

Been searching for a Black hard shell tire cover for a 35"x12.5" tire, and not having much luck. A custom metal jobber will set me back a crap ton. Really didn't want to use a soft shell, as I'm not too fond of them. If this company called Boomerang, will make a rigid cover and a soft side type, that would be sweet A/F. They paint them in automotive Urethane's, to match stock colors, and price is reasonable for this type. Sent them an email request.

Stay tuned!
 




gmanpaint

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Tongue box build part 5:

Spent the afternoon/eve working on the tongue box lid. Wasted more time staring at it, and scratching my head, then actually working. lol Had to call it quits, as the mosquitoes was hitting me, like darts shot out of a rifle. That, and the neighbors don't appreciate grinders, and chop saws late in the evening.

I mentioned earlier that I had to change up the lid, because of the fitment with the tire. This was the head scratcher.

I chose to add another strip of 1/8"x1-1/4" flat stock across the top, in the back. On top of that, a stick of 3/4"x3/4" angle. This is for the hinge, and lid to clear the tire when opening. It changed the angles of the lid and made it interesting to figure out. It was at this point, I wish I had gone to high school, and studied Geometry. :D

Onto the lid frame....

Using 1.5" angle, I made each pc for each edge, on the sides & front. Clamped them all to each other with metal tube/angle the back sides, resting on top of the angle. This gave me the proper (I hope) angle for the sheet metal top, to lay flat from front to back. I had to space out under, and on the sides to have room for weather strip, and clearance to open/close freely. Getting all that to stay put, with 2 hands, is not so much fun. I used every clamp that would fit to help, but another 4 hands would have been awesome sauce.

Welded all that together, then added a 3/4"x3/4" sq tube to the back of the frame. Had to notch it out on both ends, to allow the angle to sit flush for the sheet metal skin. Spaced that out in the back for weather strip also.It did heat warp on me, and bow in the middle from welding. I will use the 10 ton hydro ram on it, and straighten it back out.

Now I have a frame. I added 2 cross supports out of 3/4'x3/4" angle, by notching one side, and welding flush to the other. These will pull double duty, and also be home for the latch striker pins.

Tomorrow, I will clean all my welds up, and work on the sheet metal skin. I have a nice shiny pc of 16 ga waiting to be sliced & diced for it.

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It's going to be heavy, but that's what I wanted. I will feel better knowing the items inside are well protected. I will be able to stand on this box, and I don't know many tongue boxes, you can do that without damaging them.

I do have special seam tape we use at work for commercial windows, to use on the back side. Silicone caulking, and body seam filler will also be used on the entire box from the inside. Should be leak free with all that redundancy.
 




CDW6212R

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Tough work there, keep going. Is it taking algebra to figure the angles, you've got that figured out it looks like?
 




gmanpaint

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Yeah, well....We shall see after I lay the sheet metal panel on it, if I did indeed figure it out or not. lol

Algebra, Trig, Calc, it's all Greek to me. I can read a tape measure, have a smidge of mechanics in me, and so far, it's worked out. Just glad I had shop class in Jr. High, otherwise, I would be forked.
 


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gmanpaint

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Tongue box build part 5-2:

Cleaned up the lid frame welds, but had to hold off on skinning it.

I need to take the sheet metal to a fab shop and have them brake the back edge for me. It needs to turn down the backside 3/4" angle, and be sammiched between the angle & the piano hinge. It needs to be a clean straight bend, with a nice inner & outer radius to sit flush, and allow the hing to work fluidly. This is another leak point area, and overlapping will shed the water into the corner of the angle like a rain gutter. I wish the brakes we use for siding work were strong enough for 16 ga, but pretty sure 18 is their max.

I did manage to knock out a couple little things tonight. The Outside clamp support is burned in on the inside now. Used a pc of 1/8"x3" between the vertical framing.

And.... went ahead and got the battery tray mount installed. Drilled the holes, bolted it in tight, then welded the bolt heads to the underside. It now has 4 posts on the inside that the tray can drop onto, and one wrench to tighten it down. Worked out well, as luck lent a hand, and the bolts fit on the outsides of each cross support tubes, just right so the heads are welded to them, not the flooring sheet metal. Can still get a wrench on them this way, if ever needed.

Of course this is already removed, as the box has to be painted still. But it is ready for install when the time comes at least. Did I mention I am slow at this stuff? Couple of weeks has passed since I started this tongue box, and still a bunch left to do with it. Thinking of lining the inside with marine wall material. It is like pegboard for a boat. Makes mounting items (like wiring cable, bolts, clamps, etc..) to the walls very easy once on. Still pondering on this one.

Battery mount install.jpg


The nice shiny new flush mount door hinges for the main box arrived. I dig um. More on those later. ;)
 




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