Adventure trailer build thread. | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Intro:
This is not a common build here on this forum, but this build is part of another long term build, that has been going on for 10 years now. I feel it is fitting to share this build here, since so much of it's companion is documented on EF. This thread is as detailed as my patience has allowed. I want to be able to help others that might be searching for methods/ideas, and "how to" for much of the build. I do belong to other Overland forums, and will link this thread from them, to share with others.

About:
This trailer is a short compact, stout, capable, high clearance, Swiss army knife of a camper. It is not a popup camper, nor is it a sleep in hard shell camper. It will offer all the creature comforts those do, but in a little different fashion. This style trailer, makes you enjoy the outdoors. You cook/dine, lounge & hot shower outside, but you sleep inside a roomy insulated roof top tent, 78" off the ground.

The tow rig:

The Black Hole

The entire build for the tow rig, has always been with this build in mind, and it has been extremely difficult to keep that to myself, and why it was built the way it was. It is a purpose build, with a specific objective.

The Objective:
To be the living quarters and storage, for off the beaten path journeys yet to come.
To have everything needed to sustain myself, and a few others, out in the middle of nowhere, only accessible by unpaved trails, such as old mining roads. Hauling all the boondocking gear behind, instead of overloading the vehicle's suspension. To minimize setup and tear down times for camping, and have camping items readily accessible, whenever needed.

The trailer needs to be capable of following wherever the tow rig goes. Matching tires, axle width, and the same, if not more height clearance as the tow rig. Sleeping & shelter for 4 comfortably, sustainable cold food storage, food prep space, gas powered cooking, AC/DC power supply, and hot showers for days at a time, are all the requirements for this build.

Goal:

This is the other half of that long term build plan. I am slow at the building and fabricating process, and this will take about a year to complete. Updates will happen as the build progresses. I have entered the 7th month of the build, and expect another 3-4 months left to get it road worthy at the least. Just like anything I have done, it never ends, and improvements will happen, as I gain experience & knowledge with what works best for me.

Baby steps:

This is the first time I have ever attempted anything like this. I am bound to make mistakes, and corrections/improvements are all but a guarantee. I do have a final vision for what I want this to be, as it has been a thought process for many many years now. Please bear with me as this thread goes. Some items won't make sense until it comes to be. I am not going to tell you how things should be done. I am just sharing how I did things on this build. Agree/disagree, like it or leave it, it's mostly a learning experience by mixing what I know, and what I had to learn, to get things as I want them. Definitely not for everybody. Heck, I know I will change things down the road, as I find ways to improve on it. That is part of the fun!



Why am I building this?
I'm Tired of ground tent camping all my life. Tired of the time it takes to set up & tear down. Tired of all the tedious packing, unpacking, moving things from place to place after every trip. Plus, I don't want a motor home that can't leave the roads.
I plan on getting lost a few times, venturing out to places unknown and unseen. We live in a large, beautifully gifted geographical location on the planet. Our own back yard is filled with amazing spectacles. Places that can only be seen on dirt trails, off the beaten paths, not by roads covered in pavement, and delivery trucks. Exploring into the dark hours of the night, and setting camp in the middle of nowhere, instead of heading back. We can traverse a lot of ground this way.

Kudos:

A few friends helped with this build, and I couldn't have got as far as it is without them. Special thanks to James, Matt, Kurt, Ryan, & Jacob. You guys rock!

A warning from the author:

This thread contains: Long drawn out boring tedious explanations, Dry humor, embarrassing anecdotes, speech in the 3rd person, countless pictures, and some content is for Mature audiences. There is a little for everybody here, but be warned, this is not your typical build thread, and not from your typical builder. I am not responsible for your emotional mood swings, due to reading this material. ;)

Edit: Progress pics as of 10/15/18. Getting closer every day!

Dr washed.jpg

RTT on front pass side full view.jpg


First real use!

Camp set 1.jpg

Camp set 2.jpg

Bat wing awning up.jpg



Current specs:
Main Frame- 12'.5"L x 48"W
Whopping 25" of ground clearance with 35" tires
Fenders- 72" Long x 14.00" Wide tapered to 0.00" in front
Cabin- 48"W x 72"L x 36"H
Overall Width - 76"
Overall Height - 68" Roof Rack lowered - 78" Roof Rack lifted
Overall Height- 80" With RTT stowed - 140" RTT open & rack lifted
Dry weight- 2300#'s

2"x3"x3/16" Steel Tube Frame, with 1 pc center tongue beam from front to rear.
3500 Lb Timbren Axleless Independent suspension
10" Electric brakes
35"x12.5" Goodyear MTR's w/kevlar & matching spare
15"x10" Mickey Thompson black satin aluminum wheels
Lock N Roll off road articulating Hitch
14 Ga steel cabin walls & roof
3/4" Ply floor, stained, sealed, & 5 topcoats of acrylic gloss clear
Commercial 60 Mil Waterproof TPO membrane under belly skin
12 Ga steel Fenders on Sq frame & 2" x 3/16" Round slider tubes
Spare tire mount on cabin front
16 Ga swing out 4'W x 2'D x 24"H Tapered Tongue box
16 Ga Side boxes with Tapered front compartments
Telescoping Roof rack (12") with scissor jack actuation
Two rear 31" BAL C leveling jacks & swivel plate base
Dual 5K swivel weld ring flat plate base Tongue jacks
ARK dual wheel offroad 750 HD Tongue jack
Slider system for hidden Solar panel storage
Dual 11 lb Propane tank storage mounts
Quick Disconnect Water supply
All Stainless & Aluminum hardware, where applicable

Interior:
Front compartment 48"Wx24"Lx36"H
Two side doors, and upper 12 ga shelf with expanded metal rear wall
Rear Compartment 48"Wx48"Lx36"H
3/4" PT wood flooring, custom finish, clear satin marine topcoats.
Tie downs on frame tubes
1-60W Led rear cabin, 3-10w Led front cabin
Wiring plumbed with flex and hard conduit
Split cabin with full rear cabin deck, tie down racks

Power:
Dual Group 31 MAGM deep cycle 110 AH batteries
110 shore
100W Renogy Solar
Charge:
NOCO Marine 110v 20 amp onboard Dual smart charger
30 amp Renogy MPPT Solar charger
140 amp traveling vehicle charge, via smart charger
Soon to come: 40 amp-500 watt DC-DC charger from alternator
Portable Valence 80Ah Lifepo4 Solar Gen w/inverter

Accessories:
4 season 23Zero 73" Walkabout RTT W/ large Annex room - telescopic ladder w/rung pads- Ext shoe bags-Led lights- 3" thick x Ca King mattress w/anti condensation mat.
Oversized high density 3" thick 56" x 96" mattress. Cold weather cover, additional secondary rain fly.
Rhino Rack 8.5' Bat Wing 270* Wrap around Awning (2019 version)
5Liter - 1.5 gpm - On demand instant hot water heater
ARB/ViAir 150 psi onboard air system
Ready Welder II
Slide out Kitchen/storage- 1/2" Baltic Birch, sealed/stained/clear coats 350# slides
ICECO VL45 portable fridge/freezer - AC/DC
Custom powder coated locking Fridge slide out.
Wireless controlled winch (upper roof rack storage, rear bumper hitch receiver)
Rear door interior fold down table
Dual 11 lb propane tanks (rear fender mounted)
Marine control panel, rocker switches w/circuit breakers, 12v battery meter, Aux outlets
30 gallon fresh water tank & 3.0 gpm instant on pump w/ inline filter
Trailer Harness Connection lock box
First Aid field kit (large)
Dual Fire Extinguisher's

LED Lighting:
Front- 2-45w dual pods w/amber fogs
Sides- 4-18w pods
Rock- 4-10w blue IP 67
Cabin- 1-60w 3 setting round rear compartment ceiling fixture, 3-10w pods front compartment
Tails/brakes/turns- 30w 6" oval
Reverse- 30w 6" oval
Markers- 3w red & amber
7 pin RV trailer harness & J box

Tongue box build:
Full box tube frame & 16 ga sheet, w/plate and tube gussets
Dual battery mount tray
Red oak Shelf for Noco dual 20 amp charger, 20amp solar charger, 12v systems (3) circuit breakers, fuse panel, main power cutoff switch
3 space divider walls & front storage shelf
Gas lift struts, 2"x 3/16" thick Aluminum lid hinge
Dual SS locking paddle latch handles
Dual 4" SS louvered vents w/bug screens
Pass thru power cord outlet with weatherproof door hatch
NOCO 110v wall power plug w/ weatherproof cover
2k locking latch to frame, & dual 7/16" clevis pins to frame
5/8" spindle for swivel action, for spare tire removal/security

Paint:
Frame- Chassis saver gloss black
Cabin Exterior- Acid etch primer & Single stage Gloss Black automotive 2k urethane
Cabin Interior- SW DTM Gloss White
Side & T boxes, All doors- Urethane Epoxy primer & Single stage Gloss Black 2k Urethane
Roof rack- Chassis saver gloss black
Fenders-Acid etch primer underneath & Urethane base topside, Black Raptor liner w/grip additive

Trim: Aluminum



Lots to add to that list up there, and I will as the build progresses. :)

I hope you enjoy the thread, as much as I have enjoyed the build itself.
 



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Mini update. ..

I grossly miscalculated how much epoxy primer it will take for all this stuff! I need three times, the amount I bought. I built more than I realized, and only realized how much, when I set up for spray. Lol!!!

2 sets of saw horse's with 2x4x10 studs filled, and need another set up to hold it all at once.

Paint store is closed today, so can't finish.

Sneak peak, of my redneck outdoor spray booth.

20180708_144640.jpg


And the Ppg 2 part black epoxy primer, shot with the HVLP & 1.4 tip...

primer on small boxes 1.jpg


My neighbors can see it, and hear me working, but have no idea what the hell I am doing. :D

redneck spray booth.jpg


It actually worked very well. No bugs, dust, or anything made it's way onto anything. I call it a win.
 



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Looks really good!
 






Managed to get everything primered a couple times. Have to wait until tomorrow to start the topcoats, as rains are moving in.

Open window on this epoxy, to top coat is 4-5 days. If I wait any longer, it all has to be sanded, and cleaned, and who wants to do that? Not this guy!!
 






So my crazy job threw 2 nights of events at me this week, and guess who lost his re-coat time window, with the epoxy primer, and had to wet block sand everything? This guy!! (ugh)

I'm sure it worked out for the best anyways, as I went ahead and used some spot putty/glaze on some areas on the boxes. Shot over all that with some 1k primer, and more wet sanding. Went thru the grits and ended with 600.

Your door is a jar...

wet sand trailer door.jpg


Some more primer added and some more wet sanding...

side boxes primer prep.jpg

t box primer prep 2.jpg

Boxes be pinhole free now.

Next I decided that shooting the insides of these things with the HVLP gun was a royal pita, and was worried a bit that the topcoat would not come out right, so.... I just shot them twice, with hammered black out of a can. Took about 6 cans, but was able to get all the nooks and crannies this way.


one side box inside painted.jpg

r box interioe painted.jpg


When the temps cool off to below 90*, and I have the time, I will get to the 2k topcoat on the rest. More than likely, do the doors one day, then the boxes another. Going to be tricky with the side boxes as all sides need done, but can't do all sides at once, if that makes sense.

Until next time kiddos.... Stay indoors, it is Friday the 13th after all.
 






Temps finally dropped to 90..ish. Humidity was at 60% tho, so as planned, the doors got sprayed today.

The heat & humidity created more water in the lines then I liked, so I ran dual water filters on the gun. The filter at the compressor, and the single filter at the gun just wasn't enough. I even drained the tank, and let it run with the drain open to blow everything out. Hot air in the lines was enough to create it in the line itself. I added a 5 ft whip to the gun, then moved the secondary regulator to the far end, and added the water filter there. It worked, and that's what makes the sauce, so onward ho...

HVLP and dual filters.jpg


Broke out the wax & grease remover, a quick once over with the tack cloths, mixed up the 4:1 Urethane topcoat, set up the fan, strapped on the 3m spray mask, and got to spraying. :fart:

Backsides of the doors done...

Doors backsides topcoat.jpg


Decided to spray the door frame sides of the boxes today, and will do the rest of the boxes tomorrow with them upside down. Ran out of hardener for the paint, and have to go get more in the morning to finish up. Half a quart went missing on me....:shifty:

After a few hours of dry time, they got flipped, and all the door fronts got some good coats with a 15 minute flash over time between coats. Best part of spraying flat on horses, is you can't get any curtain runs. :D

Box door frames topcoat.jpg


That spray booth be maxed out!

I can't wait to get all this stuff installed and in the rear view mirror. I have to get to the electrical, and get this thing lit up so I can get it titled & tagged.

Until next time, remember, at 3am it's dark out, and she just went from a 4 to an 8. No Judgment man.... :dpchug:
 












T-box, side boxes got all the final coats on today. At $2.40/oz for paint, I couldn't be happier that this thing is 95% done with paint now.

small boxes final topcoats.jpg


Going to have to wait a while before I can cut and polish them up. Now to figure how to man handle them back to the trailer w/o messing them up. More than likely, they will sit there for a few days, then wrap them up with towels for the dolly.

Had a few OZ's of paint left in the cup, so I shot the tongue a few times to build it up. I know that thing is going to get abused over time.

tongue painted.jpg
 






Very nice, glad you had enough to finish it. Paint is crazy expensive compared to 25 years ago. My Mercury's NA paint is over $650 a gallon for the base(three bottles of $95 per pearl in it too).

Could you take the tongue to get powder coated, how far is Jon from you?
 






I actually ran short today and had to get a quart. $96 for it, and 8 oz of hardener. Paint materials have ran me $850 so far. Ugh...

The tongue is actually 1 pc from front to back of the trailer. It runs thru the cross members, and welded in tight. It's over 13 ft long.
 






LOL, okay, not an easy small part to ship off etc.

I just sold two Spidey comics tonight, one(#46) would cover that paint job twice.. The other is older(#13), maybe five repaints. I'm liquidating, it's time to reinvest my old hobby.
 






Dang, now I wish I kept my childhood comic books! I had a few paper shopping bags filled with them, and gave them to charity years ago. Oh well, hopefully they cashed in.

The tongue is like the main sail mast and keel to the trailer. Everything is built around it. I built it this way to be able to have one solid tow point at the rear. With it made like that, the tow rig can pull or be pulled from the trailers rear tow point, with full strength, and nothing to over stress.
 












Weekend update.... (Jane you ignorant s***).

So since I have gave up any social life, since this build started, it was just another Friday night/Saturday slaving away again on it. All the doors got wet sanded yesterday. Started with an easy 1200, then 1500, and stopped at 2000 grit. Scratches was fine enough for the compounds to work well enough.

I didn't want to take all the orange peel off. The trailer box has a heavy peel to it, and if the doors are flatter (probably are), it might look funny. I will most likely end up sanding the trailer box in the future to match everything.

Doors ready for stage 3.

trailer doors top coat sanded.jpg


After a good wash & dry this morning, ( chugging hot Java as I went), I changed the backer disc on the new HF 6" polisher to a new 5" McGuire's disc. Threw that hunk of junk 6" disc in the box. Just as I did this, UPS shows up with my new McGuire's pads. Sahweeet!

This is the system and materials for this labor of love (BS!!). Cloth cutting pad for the cutting compound. Red foam pad for the fine cut. Yellow foam pad for the final wax. Now, I didn't get to the waxing just yet, I am going to wait until it's time to put everything back together, or 30 days minimum.

cut n buff stuff.jpg


This is half a small door done, with 2 cuts, & 4-5 passes for each cut, with the Ultra cut 105 compound. This stuff worked great for this project, as everything is loose, and done laying flat on a table. There are other better compounds out there, that doesn't "Dust" as much, but that isn't a factor here, as the dust doesn't come into play. That only matters when you have something next to it, you don't want to get crap on. Like doing a hood, and having to protect everything around it, to keep it clean.

Any choo....

half door with 105 cut.jpg


I made 2-3 cuts with 4-5 passes/cut, on every door, with both the 105 cut, and the fine cut compounds. This is the rear main box door, with both cuts done. I can't imagine how much more deep, it is going to be, once the wax is applied. You can see the peel I left in it, in the reflection. Hoping it is close to the trailer, once I am done cut n buffing it.

door 105 cut  & 2nd cut cleaner only.jpg


I love, love, love, freshly painted, and buffed Black paint. Your hard pressed to find anything that looks better right after it's done. Of course, it's black, and that appeal only lasts for about 5 mins once on the road, or in the driveway. Haha!

It got hot out, and I had enough of this for a day. Tomorrow, I will sand, clean, cut n buff the side & tongue boxes. Still so much left to do with these boxes, I fear they will never get done in my lifetime!

This has been your weekend update, and now, back to your original program...

point counterpoint snl.jpg


Edit
Both side boxes and tongue box have been sanded, cut and polished. Now to install a hoist to the rafters, for a one man install.
 






Mourdoor....

For Monday, I got more done then I planned, even though it's not much.

Decided to get all three small boxes sealed up with black silicone, so it could setup before the doors and lid can be installed.

Broke out the POR15 and touched a bunch of stuff. I welded in a couple patches on the inside, and door catches, that needed painted.

Moved onto installing the two main box side doors, and then put the 5/8 bulb seal on those door stops. Bought a 25' roll of 5/8" & 3/8", and am going to be 3' short for the rear door. :( I have 3' extra of the 3/8" bulb seal for the side boxes tho. smh Little stuff like this drives me crazy, but it's part of it. sigh...

Pass door final install.jpg


bulb strip on pass dr.jpg


Too afraid to man handle the freshly painted/buffed T-box back onto the trailer. It isn't fully hardened yet, and will easily mess up if I slip, bang it into something. It's big, heavy, and very awkward to move alone. For now, it's resting on the dolly, so I can move it around, and not leave it outside in the makeshift spray booth. Yes, I know, I have to clean some compound slop under it.

t box on dolly.jpg


I stopped at the hardware store this morning, and grabbed 4 big lag eye bolts. Going to stick em in the rafters, then use some pulley's and the winch, to lift these awkward boxes up and on the trailer. The things I get myself into! I know I have a problem, but at least, it's a problem I can live with.

Oh, and it was time to order the spare tires, for both this and the rig. I decided to wait to get them, until I was ready to actually have a home for them. UPS guy wheeled them up the driveway (inclined) at the same time, and seen the trailer. He asked what these monster truck tires was for, and I pointed at the trailer. He was in shock. LOL. I will get them mounted on the new wheels, one day this week.

new mtr spares.jpg


Until next time Ladies & germs.... Confucius say.. Man in glass house, should have sex in basement.
 






Big meaty tires, for the trailer, cool.
 












Very nice. Custom made I'm sure that will be better than anything else a person could buy. I hope it does everything you need it to.
 



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I looked at everything I could find online for a T-box big enough, and strong enough for my intentions, with no luck. This box is pretty large compared to anything I seen, and so so so much more beef to it. It needs it as it will house 100 lbs in batteries, another 30 lbs in electronics and other mounted devices. If I can figure it out, it might be used to mount solar panels on the lid, when remote camping. Not sure on that tho, as I have another hair brained idea about those panel locations.

I just picked up all the aluminum exterior trim for the boxes, along with some rivets, and 30# weatherproof mounting tape. Hoping it cleans up the appearance on them, w/o looking too gaudy. I want to mask the black panels off around all the alum trims, and spray them with a UV clear coat, to eliminate oxidation. When it comes time to finally wax this thing, all the trim masking is going to be a huge PITA. lol

I know some of you are thinking, why go through all this trouble for appearance on an off road trailer? Well, this thing will cost as much as a new small car when completed. I am actually having it appraised, and adding full coverage insurance. It will have satellite security installed, to get the special policy for it. Policy will cover everything bolted down, inside & out, and coverage for loss of loose items, such as tools, and gear. Even in a trail roll over, it will be covered for repairs. I want to be able to sell this thing, and re-coop funds for it, if I ever need too.
 






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