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Intro:
This is not a common build here on this forum, but this build is part of another long term build, that has been going on for 10 years now. I feel it is fitting to share this build here, since so much of it's companion is documented on EF. This thread is as detailed as my patience has allowed. I want to be able to help others that might be searching for methods/ideas, and "how to" for much of the build. I do belong to other Overland forums, and will link this thread from them, to share with others.

About:
This trailer is a short compact, stout, capable, high clearance, Swiss army knife of a camper. It is not a popup camper, nor is it a sleep in hard shell camper. It will offer all the creature comforts those do, but in a little different fashion. This style trailer, makes you enjoy the outdoors. You cook/dine, lounge & hot shower outside, but you sleep inside a roomy insulated roof top tent, 78" off the ground.

The tow rig:

The Black Hole

The entire build for the tow rig, has always been with this build in mind, and it has been extremely difficult to keep that to myself, and why it was built the way it was. It is a purpose build, with a specific objective.

The Objective:
To be the living quarters and storage, for off the beaten path journeys yet to come.
To have everything needed to sustain myself, and a few others, out in the middle of nowhere, only accessible by unpaved trails, such as old mining roads. Hauling all the boondocking gear behind, instead of overloading the vehicle's suspension. To minimize setup and tear down times for camping, and have camping items readily accessible, whenever needed.

The trailer needs to be capable of following wherever the tow rig goes. Matching tires, axle width, and the same, if not more height clearance as the tow rig. Sleeping & shelter for 4 comfortably, sustainable cold food storage, food prep space, gas powered cooking, AC/DC power supply, and hot showers for days at a time, are all the requirements for this build.

Goal:

This is the other half of that long term build plan. I am slow at the building and fabricating process, and this will take about a year to complete. Updates will happen as the build progresses. I have entered the 7th month of the build, and expect another 3-4 months left to get it road worthy at the least. Just like anything I have done, it never ends, and improvements will happen, as I gain experience & knowledge with what works best for me.

Baby steps:

This is the first time I have ever attempted anything like this. I am bound to make mistakes, and corrections/improvements are all but a guarantee. I do have a final vision for what I want this to be, as it has been a thought process for many many years now. Please bear with me as this thread goes. Some items won't make sense until it comes to be. I am not going to tell you how things should be done. I am just sharing how I did things on this build. Agree/disagree, like it or leave it, it's mostly a learning experience by mixing what I know, and what I had to learn, to get things as I want them. Definitely not for everybody. Heck, I know I will change things down the road, as I find ways to improve on it. That is part of the fun!



Why am I building this?
I'm Tired of ground tent camping all my life. Tired of the time it takes to set up & tear down. Tired of all the tedious packing, unpacking, moving things from place to place after every trip. Plus, I don't want a motor home that can't leave the roads.
I plan on getting lost a few times, venturing out to places unknown and unseen. We live in a large, beautifully gifted geographical location on the planet. Our own back yard is filled with amazing spectacles. Places that can only be seen on dirt trails, off the beaten paths, not by roads covered in pavement, and delivery trucks. Exploring into the dark hours of the night, and setting camp in the middle of nowhere, instead of heading back. We can traverse a lot of ground this way.

Kudos:

A few friends helped with this build, and I couldn't have got as far as it is without them. Special thanks to James, Matt, Kurt, Ryan, & Jacob. You guys rock!

A warning from the author:

This thread contains: Long drawn out boring tedious explanations, Dry humor, embarrassing anecdotes, speech in the 3rd person, countless pictures, and some content is for Mature audiences. There is a little for everybody here, but be warned, this is not your typical build thread, and not from your typical builder. I am not responsible for your emotional mood swings, due to reading this material. ;)

Edit: Progress pics as of 10/15/18. Getting closer every day!

Dr washed.jpg

RTT on front pass side full view.jpg


First real use!

Camp set 1.jpg

Camp set 2.jpg

Bat wing awning up.jpg



Current specs:
Main Frame- 12'.5"L x 48"W
Whopping 25" of ground clearance with 35" tires
Fenders- 72" Long x 14.00" Wide tapered to 0.00" in front
Cabin- 48"W x 72"L x 36"H
Overall Width - 76"
Overall Height - 68" Roof Rack lowered - 78" Roof Rack lifted
Overall Height- 80" With RTT stowed - 140" RTT open & rack lifted
Dry weight- 2300#'s

2"x3"x3/16" Steel Tube Frame, with 1 pc center tongue beam from front to rear.
3500 Lb Timbren Axleless Independent suspension
10" Electric brakes
35"x12.5" Goodyear MTR's w/kevlar & matching spare
15"x10" Mickey Thompson black satin aluminum wheels
Lock N Roll off road articulating Hitch
14 Ga steel cabin walls & roof
3/4" Ply floor, stained, sealed, & 5 topcoats of acrylic gloss clear
Commercial 60 Mil Waterproof TPO membrane under belly skin
12 Ga steel Fenders on Sq frame & 2" x 3/16" Round slider tubes
Spare tire mount on cabin front
16 Ga swing out 4'W x 2'D x 24"H Tapered Tongue box
16 Ga Side boxes with Tapered front compartments
Telescoping Roof rack (12") with scissor jack actuation
Two rear 31" BAL C leveling jacks & swivel plate base
Dual 5K swivel weld ring flat plate base Tongue jacks
ARK dual wheel offroad 750 HD Tongue jack
Slider system for hidden Solar panel storage
Dual 11 lb Propane tank storage mounts
Quick Disconnect Water supply
All Stainless & Aluminum hardware, where applicable

Interior:
Front compartment 48"Wx24"Lx36"H
Two side doors, and upper 12 ga shelf with expanded metal rear wall
Rear Compartment 48"Wx48"Lx36"H
3/4" PT wood flooring, custom finish, clear satin marine topcoats.
Tie downs on frame tubes
1-60W Led rear cabin, 3-10w Led front cabin
Wiring plumbed with flex and hard conduit
Split cabin with full rear cabin deck, tie down racks

Power:
Dual Group 31Lifpo4 100 AH Lithium batteries
110 shore
100W Renogy Solar
Charge:
NOCO Marine 110v 20 amp onboard Dual smart charger
30 amp Renogy MPPT Solar charger
140 amp traveling vehicle charge, via smart charger
Soon to come: 40 amp-500 watt DC-DC charger from alternator
Portable Valence 80Ah Lifepo4 Solar Gen w/inverter

Accessories:
4 season 23Zero 73" Walkabout RTT W/ large Annex room - telescopic ladder w/rung pads- Ext shoe bags-Led lights- 3" thick x Ca King mattress w/anti condensation mat.
Oversized high density 3" thick 56" x 96" mattress. Cold weather cover, additional secondary rain fly.
Rhino Rack 8.5' Bat Wing 270* Wrap around Awning (2019 version)
5Liter - 1.5 gpm - On demand instant hot water heater
ARB/ViAir 150 psi onboard air system
Ready Welder II
Slide out Kitchen/storage- 1/2" Baltic Birch, sealed/stained/clear coats 350# slides
ICECO VL45 portable fridge/freezer - AC/DC
Custom powder coated locking Fridge slide out.
Wireless controlled winch (upper roof rack storage, rear bumper hitch receiver)
Rear door interior fold down table
Dual 11 lb propane tanks (rear fender mounted)
Marine control panel, rocker switches w/circuit breakers, 12v battery meter, Aux outlets
30 gallon fresh water tank & 3.0 gpm instant on pump w/ inline filter
Trailer Harness Connection lock box
First Aid field kit (large)
Dual Fire Extinguisher's

LED Lighting:
Front- 2-45w dual pods w/amber fogs
Sides- 4-18w pods
Rock- 4-10w blue IP 67
Cabin- 1-60w 3 setting round rear compartment ceiling fixture, 3-10w pods front compartment
Tails/brakes/turns- 30w 6" oval
Reverse- 30w 6" oval
Markers- 3w red & amber
7 pin RV trailer harness & J box

Tongue box build:
Full box tube frame & 16 ga sheet, w/plate and tube gussets
Dual battery mount tray
Red oak Shelf for Noco dual 20 amp charger, 20amp solar charger, 12v systems (3) circuit breakers, fuse panel, main power cutoff switch
3 space divider walls & front storage shelf
Gas lift struts, 2"x 3/16" thick Aluminum lid hinge
Dual SS locking paddle latch handles
Dual 4" SS louvered vents w/bug screens
Pass thru power cord outlet with weatherproof door hatch
NOCO 110v wall power plug w/ weatherproof cover
2k locking latch to frame, & dual 7/16" clevis pins to frame
5/8" spindle for swivel action, for spare tire removal/security

Paint:
Frame- Chassis saver gloss black
Cabin Exterior- Acid etch primer & Single stage Gloss Black automotive 2k urethane
Cabin Interior- SW DTM Gloss White
Side & T boxes, All doors- Urethane Epoxy primer & Single stage Gloss Black 2k Urethane
Roof rack- Chassis saver gloss black
Fenders-Acid etch primer underneath & Urethane base topside, Black Raptor liner w/grip additive

Trim: Aluminum



Lots to add to that list up there, and I will as the build progresses. :)

I hope you enjoy the thread, as much as I have enjoyed the build itself.
 



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So with this Sunday feeling like a Saturday, thanks to Labor day, on Monday, I spent the day, in a Daze.

Was actually needing something to do just for fun, and this little winch project was just the thing. I started on it yesterday, and finished it today, and really had that giggity feeling afterwards. It turned out great, and even though it was a silly little project, it made me smile pretty good anyways.

Started out by rummaging through the scrap pile for materials, and found everything I needed. A foot of 2"x2"x1/4" sq, a couple feet of 1/2"x1/2"x1/8" sq, a foot of 1-1/2"x1/8" angle, and a 6"x6"x1/4" plate, two feet of 1/4" rod, and it was game on!

Copying the measures from another hitch, I cut, and drilled the 2"sq. Then used the winch mounting plate to make another plate with the 1/4" plate. Drilled some bolt holes, by getting my punch marks using the winch plate. Found center, and welded them together, making a few passes of diff weld beads, (Fill, stitch, C pass), looks goofy, but I wanted it as strong as a 110v welder could make it. Let this cool, self etch prime, and a couple black top coats. Let sit overnight, until well done.

winch hitch mount 1.jpg
Winch hitch mount 2.jpg


This morning, I woke up suburbia at 7:30 am with the Dewalt metal chopsaw. Not my fault, EF was down this morning. What's a guy to do when that happens? :dunno: cut up everything and then mocked it up, to mark bolt holes for drilling. Tacked it all together, made some fine tune adjustments, then burned it in. Quick clean with the flap disc, and the usual paint job. Forgot to eat breakfast, and it was lunch time. Pause for grub/drinks, and cold A/C in the hacienda.

Paint dried, so time to bolt it all together. Winch to the 2"sq hitch tube, then the cage and control box. Route and secure the wiring, and bam, this baby winch project is mostly done.

winch bolted 1.jpg

winch bolted 2.jpg


Didn't feel like pulling the trailer out, to test fit it on, so I just used the tow pigs hitch receiver. This is where I got to chuckling. :D

winch mock mounted 1.jpg

winch mock mounted 2.jpg


It's just so damn stinking cute! :laugh: Since this winch comes with nothing to mount the control box, and it being made portable, plus stored away in the trailer when not in use, This was my answer, and it needed some protection too. The entire thing weighs about 20 lbs.

I will swap the synthetic rope and fairlead after I use the cable setup to get the RTT mounted. Thinking of just using one of those contained battery boxes to mount the 3rd battery in the main compartment. If I don't like that idea (which I am having 2nd thoughts on), I can use a new set of 8 ga jumper cables, and use a set of HD quick connector's to the winch, and crimp on some copper lugs for the battery terminals in the tongue box. No rush for this, and I have time to think on it.

So that's it for this weekend, I will be back at it again over the week. Enjoy Labor day y'all! And remember, using self checkout lanes, steals jobs, and the price is the same, with you doing the work. Wait in line, and flirt with the cashier, she needs her job! ;)
 



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Wiring. Ugh.

Managed to get the trailer brake, reverse, and marker lights on over the weekend. Many body contortions, and a sore back resulted.

Side box marker lights installed underneath (out of harms way), and interior wiring under bottom shelf. Supply line goes through the main box walls, under the box, and up into the bottom of the box with grommets. Since the boxes are bolted to the trailer frame, the ground is added to the box frame.

side box marker light.jpg

side box marker light wiring.jpg


Gave up on using all pvc conduit. Just used some here and there. Too much to deal with, and not enough patience. Lol I used wire looms and junction boxes where the wires go to vertical. Adding the wires for other items will be a bit of an ordeal, but shouldn't be to bad. All the hangers are stainless and rubber.

main box junction boxes.jpg




Made a pc of conduit for the brake wire. Made it on the table, then bolted it on, underneath.

20180910_134027.jpg
20180910_133948.jpg


Wire loom, and tape from this to the backside of the hubs.

To take the tension off the wire loom, I made a spring thing a ma Bob. Still have to finish wrapping the loom, and add a wire cable to the loom for a pull stop. (will add that pic here later)

Made with stainless steel shhtufffs...

trailer brake loom springs.jpg


Installed...

trailer brake loom install 2.jpg


Wires are inboard a few inches. Picture makes them look like they are closer to the tire.
 






Before I tackle the major job, of building the inside of the Tongue box, I have to finish up a few things to the box itself first. Never ends it seems.

T-Box part 7-1

So after many many hours searching the interbewbs, and getting Glaucoma from staring at the idiot box screen, I couldn't find exactly what I wanted, so I compromised. I wanted a couple small 2.5" vents for the box, to let battery gasses escape. That and heat relief. I wanted them to be stainless to match the build. No dice. I went to a boat store, and found some 4" flush mount stainless vents. These had a 3" vent hole. close enough. The largest hole saw I have is 2.5", so only 1/4" smaller hole at the vent opening.

Out came the template making tools.

tbox vent install kit.jpg


Using a ruler & torpedo level, I got the template set in place, and the 5 pilot holes drilled, for each vent. Then the nerve racking task of drilling a huge hole into freshly painted metal. (nail biter man)

t box vent hole cut.jpg


See the new marker light? :D

Then installed the vents temporarily. Had to make the holes right for the bolts.

SS 4 in vent installed tbox.jpg


I will make some rubber gaskets for under them, on the outside, and figure a good way to add some no see-um bug screen to the inside. I had to add them to the sides of the box, instead of behind the box, like I wanted. To do them behind, I would have had to remove the box from the trailer completely. There just wasn't room for the drill/hole saw bit, between this box, and the main box, or inside the box. That task, just didn't sound too appealing to me tonight. If they do leak, I can add a clam shell cover to them.

The next items to add is going to take a 2" & 3.5" hole saw, and I have to buy that 3.5" sucker still. These things aren't cheap for a one time use man! Jeebus H!

A couple more smaller holes for some cable glands, and then I can add the grounds to the trailer frame.

Still shopping for an inverter to add. I want a 2000w or 3000w unit, with a remote power switch. Now everybody keeps telling me to get a Pure sine wave unit, as I will need it. I just don't see why to be honest. I do not take laptops or Televisions with me camping. I have a smart phone to use if I really needed it. So I think a modified sine wave unit will work just fine for me to make a pot of coffee, or running some string lights. The price difference in a mod to pure is huge. I can get a very good 2kw or 3kw unit for almost half the cost. I am eyeballing one with bluetooth, and can operate it from your cell phone at over 100 ft away. I can turn on/off lights while in bed in the tent with it. LOL!

Stay tuned folks. I hope your getting something out of this thread. It takes a lot of time to keep track of the build like this, but sharing is caring, and I hope somebody, finds something, useful here someday.
 






It's all great Greg, every bit of it is interesting in some way. You are going way beyond typical, but doing it yourself allows you to work in anything you might think of. Keep it up, everyone loves it I'm sure.
 






Thanks Don. Being this is the first time doing this, I am figuring out most of it as I go, with a lot of research/brainstorming, for finer detailed items. There are a lot of build threads, but not many actually go into details on how things was accomplished, just finished pictures, leaving you wondering how things came to be. Most of this build has been dreamed up in my head, some items are modified from others builds, and some are a combination of items proven to be worthy.

Bulk stuff like the frame, pictures and dimensions are good enough to figure, but the smaller detailed items are not so easy to figure by just looking at. My goal is to not only share, but to help others interested in either building one, or adding certain items. It also helps me with a time frame and jogging my memory. CRS syndrome is a real thing. lol I will link this thread to places that see a lot of traffic with like minded people, once done. Might get a bunch of new EF supporters out of it. The overlanding scene is blowing up right now. Vehicle manufacturers have noticed, and are rolling off specific models, targeting this scene. It's just going to keep growing. Laws are being made to handle the influx of the ever increasing numbers on the trails, and BLM lands. Those 2 items alone, speaks volumes to the growth of this recreational interest. Overseas companies are now exporting to us here, and new dealers are popping up all over, coast to coast. The lack of interest in this thread here, just shows me, there is a niche to fill on EF. Perspective: I can post one picture of this build on a well known overland site, and get hundreds of likes/responses in a matter of hours.

Anywho.....I still have a few items to fabricate and paint for this thing. Getting to the point where I can get measures for them, to actually build is frustrating.Those items are holding back other items. It's a vicious cycle. But, it is what it is.
 






T-Box part 7-2:

Picked up the 3.5" hole saw after work, and gotter done.

The battery charger will have a dedicated inboard plug in, by using the NOCO GCP1 AC port plug. Hooking up the charger will be as simple as plugging in a cord to the back of the box.

The Inverter will have it's own cord pass thru, via a cable hatch port. This port is also on the back, and above the AC port plug.

Both on the Passenger side, where the tent entrance is. A cord can be ran up to the tent, and enter via a built in cord port, which will be handy for lights, space heater, whatever.

First hole to cut was the bigger 3.5". Man that was a bear. 95 rpm's on the drill in low range, and when it grabs, it could break an arm. Then after centering and spacing the smaller 2" hole directly below, it was cut. So much easier, but still.... ack! This side of the box I was able to drill behind, as I swung the box out fully on it's pivot. :D

Holes cut and screw holes drilled.

holes cut for cord mounts.jpg


The NOCO came with a nice rubber gasket and port plug, to seal it up with. The cable hatch came with some clay like putty sealant. It is stiff, but soft enough to work with. I molded it around the port body, and the outer flange. After screwing it on, it formed itself nicely, and pushed into the hole, in the box. Screws went thru it, and sealed around them too.

gasket clay seal.jpg


Installed and opened for your viewing pleasure.

Installed cord mounts open.jpg


The cable hatch lid closes very tight, and has a window door that slides up/down. Simply shut it, after you run a cord thru it to keep the elements & nature out of your junk.

That little job took me a few hours to knock out, and you can't even see them. They are hidden behind the tongue box, black like the box, and without searching for them, you wouldn't even notice them. I dig it man, like gnarly dude.

I was tired and ready for dinner, at this point. Twas a long day. Left the cleanup for tomorrow. Man what a mess that makes. lol
 






Skeeters said I was having too much fun, and ran me back inside. Evil little bastages. I think they have given me West Nile Montazuma Bill Buckner drops the ball Zika Virus, by now. :crazy:

Too hot to close the overhead and work, and the fan just doesn't cut it right now. Might have to put on a haz mat suit, and a painters spray hood, just to work outside, until these demons die off. Aggravating to say the least. They be stealing my chooch!

The T-box internal build has begun!

T-box part 8-1:

T box batteries installed.jpg


I just need to get a few circuits ran into the main trailer box, so I can place the wires and drill holes for them. Once those are set, I will take a break from the wiring, to begin fabricating some custom stufffffs. Need to get them built, and painted before old man winter shows, and won't let me paint outside anymore. I have all winter to build the interior cabin up, and I will need it. The Items/Parts going in there, will take time to pay for, one at a time at that!

Might start a Gofudgeyourself account, to help out here. :D

The service industry is rough for everybody. Don't forget to tip your waiters, bartenders, and hookums. :smokin:
 






Keep at it when you can.

I am curious, can you hear your mosquitoes at all? Here they are so tiny and quiet, I only hear them when they are right at my ear. Up in Minnesota I remember those you could hear from far enough away to react to them before they bit you. Here I get bitten 2-3 times before I realize there are a bunch around me. I love dragon flies and bats, raise some of those as house pets.
 






They are repellent resistant ninjas here. These have black stripes on them, and hit stinger first.

They was in my ears, up my nose, and getting in my eyes behind my glasses. I surrendered and skedaddle back inside, to fetch the anti itch lotion.

I need to get one or those propane type skeeter killing dealios, or something. All the rains of late, just made it worse here. Going to look for some bug repellant lotion for my face. I can't spray that stuff as it gets in my eyes, and burns like a ****.

C'mon winter!!
 






Your 25K tiny house is looking good ! Skeeters... I thought it was just a local problem that I was having with them these past few days. They are so big that you can see the stripes you are referring to. They remind me of the old video game "Galaga" the way they attack in squadron groups. Everyday this week around 4 p.m. at my shop they become relentless.
All kidding aside the custom heavy duty trailer is looking great ! You might consider a "skeeter" repelling system for it...
By the way, mosquitos are attracted to the color black :shoot:
 






Thanks! Appreciate the kudos.

One of those bug juice fog machines, could work I guess. Turn on the disco ball, crank some Bee Jee's, and have a skeeter death party.

Besides the color black, and C02 emitted, the females just find me attractive, and cant' get enough. I literally have to shoo them away.
 






luckily the weather here has been so dry not many skeeters but we really need the water
roscoe
 






Spent 8 hours inside this T box today.

My new favorite hand tool. Fortney hammer lug crimp tool. I went through a bag of lugs today.

Fortney lug crimper.jpg


Hard to tell all I did, as the shelf covers a lot of the work in the pic below. Will keep at it tomorrow, and wire up the main control panel, and ground the system to the frame. Trailer will be energized by tomorrow afternoon!

t box wiring progress 1.jpg


The 2 bank, 20 amp smart charger, will be doing it's thing when I finish up. The spot to the right of the shelf, is where the inverter is being mounted. You can see the 2/0 cables clamped to the shelf, already hooked to the batteries.

There are two 100 amp breakers. 1 is for the fuse panel, that will be connected to the control panel, and the panel has individual breakers. I think that system is safe! lol The other 100 amp breaker is used for the fridge/freezer, with it's own ON/OFF safety switch in the main compartment.

The 100 amp fuse, is used for the battery charge line coming from the tow rigs Alternator. The block of wood in the box was just used for a base for the 4x4, to hammer a few lugs. Meant to take it out for the pic, but forgot. Whoopsie frigging do....

All wires that are not part of the battery connections, are inside the flex conduit, and hung with hangers under the shelf, so not touching the batteries.

3 days to wire this thing so far, will have 90% of it done with 1 more day, and I still have to run circuits into the trailer box. If I did this work for a living, I would starve to death. I think I am just that slow at it. lol
 






That's all great, it's very tedious to do complicated car wiring. Take breaks to not get too bored, and go slow. That stuff you want to be perfect and all secure, hunting wiring issues can be really PITA as you know.
 






Your following the tow rigs thread Don, so you know what I have had to deal with in the past, and now the new issues at hand. I am writing everything down, using as many color wires as I can, keeping systems organized, and circuits as cleanly ran as possible. I added J- boxes in the trailer, just so I can run an issue down, and repair it faster if one should arise. So Yeah..... I'm with you 100% here.
 






That's the smart way to do it, it has to be organized in some way for future work. I had fun(pun) with my 99 truck retrofitting the ARC air shock system into the OEM wiring, plus my few added circuits, and a master window switch on both front doors. I used almost all OEM wiring, as much as I could for meshing it all well.
 






Nice Forney hammer lug crimper tool. I looked one up on Amazon. Doesn't look like you had to sell blood plasma to get it. Last week, brother was about to use one of those lugs to repair a starter cable. I mentioned that it would be nice to find vise grip pliers with a modified jaw to crimp the lugs. It's nice to see a tool like that. Everyone with winch power cables should own one.
 






Nice Fortney hammer lug crimper tool. I looked one up on Amazon. Doesn't look like you had to sell blood plasma to get it. Last week, brother was about to use one of those lugs to repair a starter cable. I mentioned that it would be nice to find vise grip pliers with a modified jaw to crimp the lugs. It's nice to see a tool like that. Everyone with winch power cables should own one.

There's also a handheld crimping tool that's made with various dies for different sized lugs etc. I have one of those, it was about $40 I think, a barely used kit that works well for battery cables etc. Those tools are a must for good big cable connections.
 






I watched this video before I bought the hammer unit. In this video, this gentleman compares the hammer & manual die-less crimpers. This hammer unit is exactly like the Forney 57637. The manual is nice, but the hammer does enough for me, as it also does all size lugs, easy to store, and easy to operate.

 



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I loved the small size of the hammer type tool. I expected to eventually need the different die sizes for odd cables I'll make for my four project cars. I think the smaller tool is the best choice for most people.
 






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