Adventure trailer build thread. | Page 20 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Intro:
This is not a common build here on this forum, but this build is part of another long term build, that has been going on for 10 years now. I feel it is fitting to share this build here, since so much of it's companion is documented on EF. This thread is as detailed as my patience has allowed. I want to be able to help others that might be searching for methods/ideas, and "how to" for much of the build. I do belong to other Overland forums, and will link this thread from them, to share with others.

About:
This trailer is a short compact, stout, capable, high clearance, Swiss army knife of a camper. It is not a popup camper, nor is it a sleep in hard shell camper. It will offer all the creature comforts those do, but in a little different fashion. This style trailer, makes you enjoy the outdoors. You cook/dine, lounge & hot shower outside, but you sleep inside a roomy insulated roof top tent, 78" off the ground.

The tow rig:

The Black Hole

The entire build for the tow rig, has always been with this build in mind, and it has been extremely difficult to keep that to myself, and why it was built the way it was. It is a purpose build, with a specific objective.

The Objective:
To be the living quarters and storage, for off the beaten path journeys yet to come.
To have everything needed to sustain myself, and a few others, out in the middle of nowhere, only accessible by unpaved trails, such as old mining roads. Hauling all the boondocking gear behind, instead of overloading the vehicle's suspension. To minimize setup and tear down times for camping, and have camping items readily accessible, whenever needed.

The trailer needs to be capable of following wherever the tow rig goes. Matching tires, axle width, and the same, if not more height clearance as the tow rig. Sleeping & shelter for 4 comfortably, sustainable cold food storage, food prep space, gas powered cooking, AC/DC power supply, and hot showers for days at a time, are all the requirements for this build.

Goal:

This is the other half of that long term build plan. I am slow at the building and fabricating process, and this will take about a year to complete. Updates will happen as the build progresses. I have entered the 7th month of the build, and expect another 3-4 months left to get it road worthy at the least. Just like anything I have done, it never ends, and improvements will happen, as I gain experience & knowledge with what works best for me.

Baby steps:

This is the first time I have ever attempted anything like this. I am bound to make mistakes, and corrections/improvements are all but a guarantee. I do have a final vision for what I want this to be, as it has been a thought process for many many years now. Please bear with me as this thread goes. Some items won't make sense until it comes to be. I am not going to tell you how things should be done. I am just sharing how I did things on this build. Agree/disagree, like it or leave it, it's mostly a learning experience by mixing what I know, and what I had to learn, to get things as I want them. Definitely not for everybody. Heck, I know I will change things down the road, as I find ways to improve on it. That is part of the fun!



Why am I building this?
I'm Tired of ground tent camping all my life. Tired of the time it takes to set up & tear down. Tired of all the tedious packing, unpacking, moving things from place to place after every trip. Plus, I don't want a motor home that can't leave the roads.
I plan on getting lost a few times, venturing out to places unknown and unseen. We live in a large, beautifully gifted geographical location on the planet. Our own back yard is filled with amazing spectacles. Places that can only be seen on dirt trails, off the beaten paths, not by roads covered in pavement, and delivery trucks. Exploring into the dark hours of the night, and setting camp in the middle of nowhere, instead of heading back. We can traverse a lot of ground this way.

Kudos:

A few friends helped with this build, and I couldn't have got as far as it is without them. Special thanks to James, Matt, Kurt, Ryan, & Jacob. You guys rock!

A warning from the author:

This thread contains: Long drawn out boring tedious explanations, Dry humor, embarrassing anecdotes, speech in the 3rd person, countless pictures, and some content is for Mature audiences. There is a little for everybody here, but be warned, this is not your typical build thread, and not from your typical builder. I am not responsible for your emotional mood swings, due to reading this material. ;)

Edit: Progress pics as of 10/15/18. Getting closer every day!

Dr washed.jpg

RTT on front pass side full view.jpg


First real use!

Camp set 1.jpg

Camp set 2.jpg

Bat wing awning up.jpg



Current specs:
Main Frame- 12'.5"L x 48"W
Whopping 25" of ground clearance with 35" tires
Fenders- 72" Long x 14.00" Wide tapered to 0.00" in front
Cabin- 48"W x 72"L x 36"H
Overall Width - 76"
Overall Height - 68" Roof Rack lowered - 78" Roof Rack lifted
Overall Height- 80" With RTT stowed - 140" RTT open & rack lifted
Dry weight- 2300#'s

2"x3"x3/16" Steel Tube Frame, with 1 pc center tongue beam from front to rear.
3500 Lb Timbren Axleless Independent suspension
10" Electric brakes
35"x12.5" Goodyear MTR's w/kevlar & matching spare
15"x10" Mickey Thompson black satin aluminum wheels
Lock N Roll off road articulating Hitch
14 Ga steel cabin walls & roof
3/4" Ply floor, stained, sealed, & 5 topcoats of acrylic gloss clear
Commercial 60 Mil Waterproof TPO membrane under belly skin
12 Ga steel Fenders on Sq frame & 2" x 3/16" Round slider tubes
Spare tire mount on cabin front
16 Ga swing out 4'W x 2'D x 24"H Tapered Tongue box
16 Ga Side boxes with Tapered front compartments
Telescoping Roof rack (12") with scissor jack actuation
Two rear 31" BAL C leveling jacks & swivel plate base
Dual 5K swivel weld ring flat plate base Tongue jacks
ARK dual wheel offroad 750 HD Tongue jack
Slider system for hidden Solar panel storage
Dual 11 lb Propane tank storage mounts
Quick Disconnect Water supply
All Stainless & Aluminum hardware, where applicable

Interior:
Front compartment 48"Wx24"Lx36"H
Two side doors, and upper 12 ga shelf with expanded metal rear wall
Rear Compartment 48"Wx48"Lx36"H
3/4" PT wood flooring, custom finish, clear satin marine topcoats.
Tie downs on frame tubes
1-60W Led rear cabin, 3-10w Led front cabin
Wiring plumbed with flex and hard conduit
Split cabin with full rear cabin deck, tie down racks

Power:
Dual Group 31 MAGM deep cycle 110 AH batteries
110 shore
100W Renogy Solar
Charge:
NOCO Marine 110v 20 amp onboard Dual smart charger
30 amp Renogy MPPT Solar charger
140 amp traveling vehicle charge, via smart charger
Soon to come: 40 amp-500 watt DC-DC charger from alternator
Portable Valence 80Ah Lifepo4 Solar Gen w/inverter

Accessories:
4 season 23Zero 73" Walkabout RTT W/ large Annex room - telescopic ladder w/rung pads- Ext shoe bags-Led lights- 3" thick x Ca King mattress w/anti condensation mat.
Oversized high density 3" thick 56" x 96" mattress. Cold weather cover, additional secondary rain fly.
Rhino Rack 8.5' Bat Wing 270* Wrap around Awning (2019 version)
5Liter - 1.5 gpm - On demand instant hot water heater
ARB/ViAir 150 psi onboard air system
Ready Welder II
Slide out Kitchen/storage- 1/2" Baltic Birch, sealed/stained/clear coats 350# slides
ICECO VL45 portable fridge/freezer - AC/DC
Custom powder coated locking Fridge slide out.
Wireless controlled winch (upper roof rack storage, rear bumper hitch receiver)
Rear door interior fold down table
Dual 11 lb propane tanks (rear fender mounted)
Marine control panel, rocker switches w/circuit breakers, 12v battery meter, Aux outlets
30 gallon fresh water tank & 3.0 gpm instant on pump w/ inline filter
Trailer Harness Connection lock box
First Aid field kit (large)
Dual Fire Extinguisher's

LED Lighting:
Front- 2-45w dual pods w/amber fogs
Sides- 4-18w pods
Rock- 4-10w blue IP 67
Cabin- 1-60w 3 setting round rear compartment ceiling fixture, 3-10w pods front compartment
Tails/brakes/turns- 30w 6" oval
Reverse- 30w 6" oval
Markers- 3w red & amber
7 pin RV trailer harness & J box

Tongue box build:
Full box tube frame & 16 ga sheet, w/plate and tube gussets
Dual battery mount tray
Red oak Shelf for Noco dual 20 amp charger, 20amp solar charger, 12v systems (3) circuit breakers, fuse panel, main power cutoff switch
3 space divider walls & front storage shelf
Gas lift struts, 2"x 3/16" thick Aluminum lid hinge
Dual SS locking paddle latch handles
Dual 4" SS louvered vents w/bug screens
Pass thru power cord outlet with weatherproof door hatch
NOCO 110v wall power plug w/ weatherproof cover
2k locking latch to frame, & dual 7/16" clevis pins to frame
5/8" spindle for swivel action, for spare tire removal/security

Paint:
Frame- Chassis saver gloss black
Cabin Exterior- Acid etch primer & Single stage Gloss Black automotive 2k urethane
Cabin Interior- SW DTM Gloss White
Side & T boxes, All doors- Urethane Epoxy primer & Single stage Gloss Black 2k Urethane
Roof rack- Chassis saver gloss black
Fenders-Acid etch primer underneath & Urethane base topside, Black Raptor liner w/grip additive

Trim: Aluminum



Lots to add to that list up there, and I will as the build progresses. :)

I hope you enjoy the thread, as much as I have enjoyed the build itself.
 



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1st nice Saturday of the year. Decided to open up the tent and awning for the first time for a dry run and learn a few things.

First off, I had to deflate the tires to 2 lbs just to get it out of the garage, and it still scraped the weather stripping on the overhead door opening. Once outside, I had to install the ladder (2 bolts), as it adds a couple inches in height. Yeah, and then remove it to get it back inside. smh

I learned that the tent opens easier than it folds up. I fought it and fought it to get it back where it needs to be to get the cover on. I ended up removing the rain fly & poles off it, and storing them inside. It helped, but it still was a fight to get it right. Hoping the more I use it, the easier it gets.

I also learned, I need to buy the ladder extension. Set at the recommended height of 78", the ladder is straight up & down, fully extended. What the French Toast? I might just get the telescoping style instead, depending on price.

I didn't fully open the tent. I didn't feel like opening the windows, and installing the big ole Annex room, or the severe weather hood. I don't think I need a shake down on those items. The rain fly has skylights tho, that's pretty fly for this white guy.

The awning is alright I guess, but I do believe it is coming off, and going on the rig. I will save up for a Foxwing, or Batwing 270*. The LED's are bigger & brighter than I expected, and the dang switch even works.

Also tested out the solar panel while it was out in the sun. It works, the end.


RTT 1st open 1.jpg

Awning 1st day opening.jpg

Awning & RTT open.jpg

Awning LED on.jpg

Solar panel 1st charge.jpg
 



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Which part was the one with shipping issues? Black & red? Or the beige one? Or none of the above?
 












Your vision and fabrication skills are amazing. There's no way in 'H' I could ever even start something like this.
It's all coming together. Congratulations!
 






Thanks Dono! :)

About to shift gears with the rear interior build. Going from metal to wood, with completely different tools, and mindset, takes a bit of adjustment. After working with metal, wood feels like molding with clay, or spreading butter on toast. No forgiveness at all.

I'm that guy that get's nervous when someone passes me the newborn child. I look at my hands, and all I see is two blocks, and no digits. That newborn looks like an oiled football. Lol

I do believe I am going to get a Kreg Pocket hole Joinery jig, for the Hardwood being used. Will be as strong as Dovetail joints, but nowhere near as hard to make. Need some special clamps, bits, and hardware for this Jig, but once I own it, I can build some other items for the home in the future.
 






That’s looking awesome, man. Incredible work.
 






I bought the kreg jig and it works great, i think there's a HF version, but i got the kreg one and the straight cut jig too
 






Right on J! I have heard good things about that jig. I have the circular saw straight edge guide from Kreg, it is a handy attachment.

So today I decided to swap out the new severe weather 7 pin harness. I tested it out on the new vehicle side connection first. Guess what? It doesn't fricking match up! There are a few female leads that are smaller in width than the rest, and too small to let the male leads join. WTF is with these manufacturers?!?! Why can't they have something like this made in a Universal standard?!?!?! :angryfire:

So now, I either return this item, or find the matching vehicle side harness. Problem with the vehicle side, is it won't work with other trailers. SOB!! These ****'s should have listed this in the advert for this item. You know, something like... "You need to purchase the matching vehicle side for this to work, or your SOL MFER's!!" :censored:

To add salt to the wound, because of the safety cog, the intermediate cable will not fit either! :banghead:

Guess it's getting returned. Damn, this upsets me. :rant:

7 way leads comparison.jpg


Ok, on the positive side, the new 135 on/ 150 off psi switch for the ARB compressor arrived. lol
 






That female side of the plug looks like a standard 7 pin RV plug. Its what I have on everything.
 






Really? Yours have diff size female ends?
The Male side (vehicle side), is which I believed to be the standard.

Edit:

Thanks BKennedy! I'm so glad you said something!
I just took apart the security box, and the new trailer side connects to the intermediate cable no problem. I threw a fit for nothing. lol

The male leads on the new vehicle side are wider, and is the problem. Good thing I didn't install it yet. It's going back, if I can find the receipt! lol

Now to find a new vehicle side. Crisis avoided, forgive the meltdown please. :)
 






You're good, take it easy. I love your passion, this is far better entertainment than face book etc. We all relate to your reactions to problems, you just put it out on here more than most. Keep going, you're great.
 






Humility, or egg on my face. Whichever fits. Lol

So far, my build mistakes have been minimal, and I'm thankful for that. I can always correct any unseen wrongdoing as well. I started this build full knowing I would make some. I am not one to back down, if I think I have a chance at success. I do know my limitations and concede to them, and do my best to figure alternatives.

To be honest, this build is the coolest thing I have ever made, with my own hands. Really hope to make my kids proud of their old man, and share it with them on the trail.

:)
 






The female plug is the towing vehicle side, not the trailer side. You know, a innie, not a outie. It really looks like a standard 7 pin RV plug. I have never seen a seven pin plug like the male or trailer side with the different sized lugs.
 






If your going by the center pin then yes. But I am not.

I have been talking about the 6 blades (pins) of diff size not fitting in the female connectors, which are in the trailer side. If you look at the picture close enough, you can see markings on the plastic from the bigger blades, trying to fit into the smaller openings.
 






The overall connectors, one is male, one female. I wonder what that odd one you have is for, the one with several smaller terminals?
 






That was my initial thought as well. Since all the blades in the vehicle side are the same and the receptacles on the trailer side varied in width, I believed the trailer side was messed up. The new trailer side wouldn't fit into the vehicle side, as its wide blades stopped it.

Once I took off the intermediate cable, and compared the ends, I found that it too, had a few smaller receptacles.

When plugging in the new trailer side, to the intermediate cable, it fit, and pushed in all the way.

Seems we all have different ways to name these two harnesses, so naming them vehicle and trailer sides is the best way I can try to eliminate confusion here.

Oddly, I just tried fitting the intermediate cable into the vehicle side, and it locks in. The openings are bigger, and allows the blades to slide into the female leads.

All 3 hooked up.
The vehicle side
The intermediate cable
And the trailer side.

All 3 harness together.jpg


Please disregard all of this, as I should have tried that, before mentioning any of this. Lol

Now to do a continuity check as the wire colors differ from them.
 






OK, OK, OK, now I think I get it. Maybe. Does the intermediate cable have a male plug (one that fit inside of another plug) on both ends? If so, then that would explain the one plug being different so it cannot be plugged in the wrong way.
 















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So I have the new 7 pin harness 100% done. That was way harder for me than I ever expected it to be. With 4 different wire components in this setup, it took some head scratching, and a few sheets of paper to get right. That final sheet with the circuits shown, is getting laminated! lol

New silicon jacket harness installed, and wired up to the J box. Black conduit that runs along side it is the battery charge cable to the tow rig.

Silicone jacket harness on.jpg


I have to swap the Blue brake wire from the J box, to the axles. It is a 14 awg now, and I want a 10 awg. I happen to have enough leftover 10 awg from the solar install. That wire will work well, as it has a special thick jacket on it for exterior use.

For charging on the move..... I ran an 8 awg wire from the tow rigs smart charger under the hood, to the rear bumper, then ran another 8 awg wire to the J box (the bigger brown wire shown in the box), and then more 8 awg (Bigger red wire shown on the left), to the 100 amp circuit breaker and batteries. Since that circuit is separate from the 7 pin harness, I only use 6 of the pins. That 7th wire is not used, but is still available for something down the road if wanted. I left it long, and capped it with a butt connector and tape. It's the bright red 10 awg wire you see in the box, and the end tucked out of the way. There is one unused port left on the J box for it too.

J box wired with new harness.jpg

Trailer harness diagram 1.jpg


Swapped out the compressor switch for the 130 on / 150 off as well. Tested it and it worked as it should. Nothing exploded, or burst, and didn't leak. Guess that was a small victory. lol
 






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