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Aftermarket remore starter problem?

jremington59

Explorer Addict
Joined
October 28, 2009
Messages
1,931
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10
City, State
Watertown, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997, 99 and 2000 5.0's
I recently purchased a 2000 Limited with the 5.0 engine. I noticed yesterday when I turned the key on it turned over once before I turned the key to crank. Today I went to start it and it barely turned over. I tried again and noticed the smell of burnt wiring. I popped the hood and the neg battery cable was smoking. There's a sticker under the hood that says the vehicle has a command start remote car starter and to turn the switch under the dash to off before working on it. I looked and the switch was on so I shut it off, but it still was drawing heavy and wouldn't turn over. I checked the battery voltage and it said 6.5 volts with both terminals off but with both terminals connected and the key off it read 500 millivolts. So something is drawing heavy. Figuring it was the remote starter I cut the wires at the switch but this made no difference. I pulled all fuses one at a time and this did nothing so I believe there is a direct power short somewhere. Could it still be the remote starter or would the problem be in the switch itself? It got dark so I can't look for the remote box tonight but I'm guessing it's best to find it and remove it. Any suggestions regarding this will be appreciated.
 



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An aftermarket starter is not wired to your fusebox.
To find it, you'll need to get under the dash.

Most starters connect power to a +12V source in the steering column, the same one that goes to your ignition.
To disconnect the starter, you will have to mind the main module and take it out. Usually it is right under the dash.
Take the front panel of the dash, the plastic panel near your knees off. Take the metal panel behind that off and you should see the module.
Usually it's a plastic box with a bunch of wires coming from it.
 






Thx DJ. I thought the switch would disable it but obviously it doesn't. I just don't understand the hot neg cable at the battery.
 






The wire to your battery is probably something other than a remote starter. Trace the wiring down. The only things that should be connected to the negative side are the body and engine grounds. A hot negative cable means you have a short to ground somewhere, probably on whatever that cable is attached to.
 






Well, I found the unit and unplugged it. I then left the key off and connected the battery terminals and as soon as they touched the engine started turning over. I contacted the previous owner and he said it was there when he got it and the person he got it from said it quit working. Even though I unplugged the unit I'm assuming there could also be a short in the plug itself? Does anyone know what color the power wire would be to a car starter? And should I get rid of all the wires and make sure none are touching?
 






I would remove all the wiring for the remote starter. It should all be exactly the same as your 97.

This is why I hate when people do DIY hackjobs.

Just to make sure your battery wiring is good. From your negative terminal, you should have one wire going to the body ground right in front of the battery, the other wire goes to your power distribution box. From the positive terminal, you have one wire to the alternator, one to the distribution box. Your starter should only have two wires going to it as well. One large power wire, and a smaller wire for the solenoid.
 






Thx Find. I appreciate the help. I'm lost when it comes to wiring. I cut the main power to the old remote starter and it made no difference. I'm going to go ahead and remove everything though. It's raining here today so it's hard to trace anything as it won't start and is out in the wind and rain and everything gets soaked.

I pulled all fuses one at a time and that didn't change anything so does that mean it's something direct wired? There is a 7 wire trailer connection in the back and just prior to this I installed new shackles and had to beat the bolts for hours to get them out. I'm wondering if during all the hammering I did something to the connector but I would think with this kind of draw it would blow a fuse.
 






OK, the remote wiring has all been removed and the hard draw is still there. Would the next step be to start looking at the starter or the ignition switch?
 






Yeah, you are going to have to trace down the short the hard way. You don't have a multimeter with an ammeter do you?

Try pulling the starter relay and see if you still have that heavy current draw.
 






I believe my meter also measures amps.


I pulled the fuse for the switch/starter and the starter relay and no change. I've never had a switch go bad but I'm beginning to wonder. I guess the next step would be to check the starter? I just can't see it being the starter with the switch off problem unless something melted inside it. Thanks for the help.
 






Make sure you got all the wiring. Most of the high current wiring is in the steering column. There could also be a starter interrupt relay, and that could be a problem if it is shorted or faulty. There are several hot at all times 12v connections for the remote start and also a starter wire connection as well under the column. Make sure if they are removed that there are no bare spots where the remote start was tied in. A short there could cause a heavy draw like what you're seeing.
 






I downloaded the installation guide online and went out and removed the wires one at a time. Whoever did it originally appeared to have done a good job as all hots had fusable links and good connectors into the hot wire splices.

I think nothing else getting power is a key here but I can't figure it out, lol. This is driving me nuts.
 






Actually, before going too much farther. Are you sure the battery is good? A dead cell in the battery can cause these types of issues too, odd as it may seem.

Anyway, if that is not the case, you are going to have to take your ammeter and start looking for circuits that are drawing a current, and checking those circuits for shorts.
 






Actually, before going too much farther. Are you sure the battery is good? A dead cell in the battery can cause these types of issues too, odd as it may seem.

Anyway, if that is not the case, you are going to have to take your ammeter and start looking for circuits that are drawing a current, and checking those circuits for shorts.

that would be my first thing to check.. didnt he say his battery was only reading about 6 volts with nothing connected? try jump starting it or swap batteries with another car quick
 






The battery is good. I put another one in and it started turning the starter with the key off. I'm leaving the low one in so I don't burn any wiring before I find the problem. The starter appears to be stuck engaged and drawing a huge load. A full battery gets the neg cable so hot you can't touch it in a matter of seconds.

Maybe someone can answer this for me. Is there a direct feed to the starter or starter solenoid from the positive cable from the battery? Also, is the solenoid attached to the starter on the 2000's or is it mounted on a firewall. My Haines manual says the relay is on the firewall between the battery and distribution box but it's in the dist box on mine.
 






Relay is in the distribution box. V6's got a relay on the passenger side inner fender area between the battery and the distribution box. If the starter is pulling a load even when the car is off, pull the starter solenoid off and replace it. It is on the starter, and they are cheap. The starter does get battery power, but it is after the distribution box.

But, pull the starter relay to be sure it isn't a short before the relay that is causing the relay to close and power the solenoid. If it still wants to start, then your solenoid is grounded closed. You will need to test all of this with a good and fully charged battery, so if you start smoking wires, be quick.
 






Solenoid is on the starter, the relay is in the battery dist. box. You are correct. If you pull the relay and put in the good battery, does the truck try to start?

EDIT: Sorry about that, I guess I type slower than you Find. lol


EDIT AGAIN: QUOTE: V6's got a relay on the passenger side inner fender area between the battery and the distribution box.
99-01 V6's have no relay or solenoid on the inner fender.
 






The battery is good. I put another one in and it started turning the starter with the key off. I'm leaving the low one in so I don't burn any wiring before I find the problem. The starter appears to be stuck engaged and drawing a huge load. A full battery gets the neg cable so hot you can't touch it in a matter of seconds.

Maybe someone can answer this for me. Is there a direct feed to the starter or starter solenoid from the positive cable from the battery? Also, is the solenoid attached to the starter on the 2000's or is it mounted on a firewall. My Haines manual says the relay is on the firewall between the battery and distribution box but it's in the dist box on mine.

my manual says this "the heavy gauge leeds are connected directly to the battery" also my manual says the solenoid is attached to the starter. my manual is for 2000 v8 awd
 






also i get a "tip" on there to make sure to connect the "boot" back on the cap of the positive when done servicing to prevent short... is there a cap on the positive side of the starter?
 



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I'm going with the solenoid or starter or both being bad. Tomorrow I'll pull the positive off the starter and see if the draw is gone. If I put in a fully charged battery right now the starter would turn slow and wires would start smoking, lol. Not good so I'm staying with the weak one. Hopefully tomorrow I can get this resolved and there aren't any torched wires. Starters are about the only thing I can think of that can draw that kind of amperage when they go bad. It ran a fully charged battery down to 9 volts in a matter of seconds and everytime I hook up the battery to check readings after changing something it takes it down more.

I'll be sure to post the problem if and when I find it.
 






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