Air cleaner outlet tube vacuum line. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Air cleaner outlet tube vacuum line.

93Aerostar

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April 17, 2010
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City, State
Pinckney, MI
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 Aerostar XL Sport
Hi all. This forum is great, I've already learned a lot just searching for the answer to the question I have.

I have a 1993 Aerostar XL Sport 3.0L auto trans. I found what looks to be a vacuum line coming from the engine air cleaner outlet tube and running to the front passenger side of the engine just behind the alternator, but I cannot find where it connects to. The 'vacuum' line comes from the middle of the engine air cleaner outlet tube; the tube is the connection between the air filter/MAF housing and the intake manifold.

There is a long story as to why this might not be hooked up and what might have happened to the connection point, but I figured the simple question as to where it should be was easiest first :D.

Thanks in advance!
Brian
 



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Is the vacuum distribution sticker under the hood gone?

Of course it it's no better than what's in the Ford service manual I can see why you're inquiring.:(
 






Follow the tube it can only go one way and I believe you will feel where it goes. There should be a port sticking out.
 






Is the vacuum distribution sticker under the hood gone?

Of course it it's no better than what's in the Ford service manual I can see why you're inquiring.:(

Nope, it's still there, but doesn't show the air cleaner tube connection. Only the FPR connection and the PVC routing; not sure what CPRV stands for. That's kind of why I was looking for pics or something that shows where it goes.

Thanks for responding though.
Brian
 






Follow the tube it can only go one way and I believe you will feel where it goes. There should be a port sticking out.

Yep, we tried that. Looked all around on that side of the engine, even so far as to jack up the van and look through the pass. side wheelwell. Nothing. I'm waiting for Rod Sterling to welcome me to his place.

Thanks for the advice,
Brian
 






I thought I should follow up with a little more info. Now that's it's getting warmer (except for today) the van has started to hesitate under accel, but is fine at idle. When it was still a little cool out it would do this until the engine was warm, then it was fine. Now that it is warm out it hesitates under accel all of the time, almost like the butterfly on the intake is not opening enough (old carb guy). Since it has 80k on it, I changed the cap and rotor, and the fuel filter as they needed it anyways. Also cleaned the MAF with the proper cleaner. Still has issues. Now that it is cold today again, seems to run ok, although I just drove it down the street (didn't want to get too far away and have it die).

Backstory: The van ran great, no problems, until this winter when I found out I had no heat. I changed the radiator coolant, and when I went to change the thermostat I broke one of the bolts for the stat neck (crap!). It was rusted in there pretty good. I tried several lubes and rust free's to no avail, and broke off a couple of easy-outs along the way; man there is just no room to get at it easy. Anyways, after bleeding knuckles, frozen fingers, and lots of cursing, I decided to let someone else try that maybe had more/better tools to get it out. After a few phone calls I took it to my local mechanic to give it a try. They had no better luck and suggested that a manifold replacement was in order and had found one from a local scrap yard. After changing out the manifold and swapping all of the components, all was good. But remember that this was while it was friggin' cold in lovely MI. Now that it's warming up poof, cough-hickup-burb -- I don't want to accelerate.

So with the above repairs and then I decided it maybe was the fuel pump, but I thought I'd check the fuel pressure first. I rented a fuel pressure gauge kit from Autozone (put a deposit down, and get a full refund upon return --- FREE use! can't beat that). During the hookup of the pressure tester gauge I found out that the vacuum line from the air intake tube was not connected to anything on the other side. After first searching all around that side of the engine I called the local Ford dealer (their repair dept is open on Sat, but only to 2pm and it was already 1:50). The told me I was looking in the right place and it should be on the pass. side rocker or right there somewhere. Still haven't found it and decided to look on the net and found this great site.

Long story short, I know the shop probably is responsible for this, but I would like to have a vehicle to drive to work on Mon :). Any pics, drawings, etc. that shows where this line hooks up will help immensely.

Thanks to all for the help in advance.
Brian

P.S I forgot to mention that the fuel pressure seems fine, although it takes a couple of key-on-key-off turns to get it up there to 30 psi. Running at idle is 32 psi. Rev press is at 35-40 psi. Due to the under accel condition I checked the pressure with it in drive (brakes fully pressed) and rev'ed, 35 to 40 psi no problem. I also disconnected the Fuel Pressure Regulator vacuum at idle to see if it made a diff and it did (bumped it up from 32 psi to ~36 psi). Thanks!!
 












Welcome to this forum! The connection for the hose is under the oil filler neck. You will see a short nipple for a hose to connect to.

Thanks BrooklynBay. I just went back out to the van with a flashlight to re-check. There is no nipple in that area. Would it be part of the oil filler neck or on the rocker cover? Any pics?

Thanks again and have a great evening!
Brian
 






1993 Ford Aerostar 3.0L engine.

1993_Ford_Aerostar_3_0L_engine_.jpg
 







Thanks BB. It does indeed look like it is part of the filler neck. Obviously when they changed the manifold they must have replaced the filler neck with one that does not have the nipple. Crap. Is this a standard part or do I need to look at the scrap yards?

Many thanks again!!
Brian

P.S. - would this cause the hesitation? Thanks again!!!
 












I don't think that it's a problem either way.

Thanks BB. Back to square one then. Any ideas then on the power loss/hesitation? Any more info needed?

Thank you again!!
Brian
 






Breather tube assembly.

This photo shows how the breather tube assembly is set up. Try fuel injector cleaner for the hesitation issue.
 

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  • Breather tube assembly..JPG
    Breather tube assembly..JPG
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This photo shows how the breather tube assembly is set up. Try fuel injector cleaner for the hesitation issue.

Thanks BB. Hopefully this is not a double post (my internet connection was lost briefly, I think it's that time of day when the cable modem is reset by the provider - *******s, opps did I say that outloud;)).

I'm not sure if that's the same as the one I have. It shows the 'breather tube' going towards the back of the engine from the oil filler tube. On mine the tube comes from the air intake tube about midway between the MAF sensor and the intake manifold and then would probably connect to the oil filler tube. Any ideas?

I will put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank tomorrow. Any thoughts on brand/style/etc.? Or many a better way to clean them?

BTW, is there any additional fuel filters on the manifold (i.e. like the little stone ones or similar that used to be on carb bowls) or maybe any other things that might clog the fuel flow? Should the PVC be changed anyways as well?

Many thanks again!!! :thumbsup: :D :notworthy :chug:
Brian
 






The PCV is easy to clean. I don't know why so many people throw them out. Spray brake cleaner into it, and let it drip dry for a couple of minutes. As for the fuel injector cleaner, there are numerous brands on the market, and everybody claims that their product is better than the next product. The strongest cleaners are the ones that connect directly into the fuel port. An average do it yourselfer doesn't have the kit for them, and doesn't know how to disable the fuel pump, so you won't find that product in an average auto parts store. Did you replace the fuel filter?
 






The PCV is easy to clean. I don't know why so many people throw them out. Spray brake cleaner into it, and let it drip dry for a couple of minutes. As for the fuel injector cleaner, there are numerous brands on the market, and everybody claims that their product is better than the next product. The strongest cleaners are the ones that connect directly into the fuel port. An average do it yourselfer doesn't have the kit for them, and doesn't know how to disable the fuel pump, so you won't find that product in an average auto parts store. Did you replace the fuel filter?

Thanks again BrooklynBay. I'll take the PCV out in the morning and clean it with brake cleaner.

Yep, with all of the various brands/products for injector cleaner I figured I'd ask if there was a preference. Fuel port meaning the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail?

Yes, I did replace the fuel filter (the one under the drivers side door on the inside of the frame).

Thanks again!!
Brian
 












Yes, that is the fuel port that I'm referring to.

Thanks, kind of figured that's what you were talking about. This one doesn't have a fuse/relay to remove for the fuel pump, so disconnecting the inertia switch is the way to disable it.

I'll still not sure about the fuel pump being ok, even though it was within the correct pressure range, it did take a few engine-off key-on-off cycles to get it to the right pressure, and engine-on pressure readings were ok. I'm thinking of checking the Tempo just for the experience of doing it on a different vehicle and to see if it responds the same way under engine-off conditions (it should be between 45-60 psi unlike the Aerostar at 30-40 psi).

I'm off to the store to get some injector cleaner; then I'll clean the PCV with some brake cleaner. We'll check back later today. Thanks again for all of the help and suggestions!
Brian
 






Since you're checking fuel pressure, here's another thing to test. Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the fuel port, turn the engine off, and see how long it maintains pressure with the engine off. You might have a leaking injector or a bad fuel pressure regulator if it drops off fast.
 



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Air Cleaner vacuum hoses Ranger

Hey,

I looked everywhere for that hose connection. It is an air heater on a
3.0L 1991. The actual vacuum motor is on the cold air intake behind the
RH headlamp and UNDER the battery. I reached under the battery tray and
could feel the hose nipple. The gadget in the air cleaner is a thermostat.:rangerred:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=241696

here's another link. The Ford dealer didn't have a clue. Hope this helps with
your application. The shop vacuum manual doesn't list it for my Ranger but its
there and it's NOT on the emissions sticker.
 






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