air conditioning compressor

[XLTrunner]

Put the finishing touch on this project by adding the correct amount of freon this morning and I've got cold a/c just in time for the record heat forecast for this weekend! Thanks to this excellent write-up and words of encouragement!

 

[floridacatfan]

Nice

 

[joney]

Yes, ordered one online. Received a messed up copy with no schematics. Found one online that was free and not messed up and had schematics.

Can you PM me the link - or the exact title for the book? Still looking.

 

[allmyEXes]

WOW! Now that's what I call an AC System Overhaul ! 5 Stars !

 

[Muleman36]

I'm currently replacing all of the o-rings in my system('97 5.0). Do I have to remove the compressor to get to those o-rings?

 

[donalds]

Not on my v6
It would be a ***** tho

 

[Muleman36]

Not on my v6
It would be a ***** tho

I finally found a thread that should help me out a bit.

I'm going to tear into it tomorrow and see what I can do.

 

[fast_dave]

@Muleman36

If the thread you found is of value, come back to this thread and provide a link!

Good luck!

 

[donalds]

@Muleman36

If the thread you found is of value, come back to this thread and provide a link!

Good luck!

Exactly

 

[Muleman36]

@Muleman36

If the thread you found is of value, come back to this thread and provide a link!

Good luck!

Please delete this if it is not allowed.

Resurrecting Your Ford Ranger Air Conditioning - The Ranger Station

Its summer and your A/C does not work. That sucks. Well, I have the write up to help you get it back on the road. Keep in mind, my write up only covers 134a systems, specifically in the 1997 … Continued

www.therangerstation.com

 

[Muleman36]

Exactly

Okay, so it IS possible to replace the AC compressor o-rings on the on a 97 5.0 without removing the compressor.

It takes:

At least one adult beverage.

A 13mm swivel head racheting wrench(for the heat sheild behind the compressor). I disassembled without a swivel head(I do NOT recommend doing this without the proper tool.)

A 10mm socket or ratcheting wrench for the connection block that holds both lines on the back of the compressor.

Fine pointed tweezers for removal and positioning of o-rings when installing new(longer the handle the better + a long Plastic pry tool(I used one from an automotive "trim removal set") to seat the new o-rings into their locations.

Patience

Before one attempts to do this, I HIGHLY recommend they take a brush, vacuum, can of air, pressure washer, anything they can find to clean every bit of dirt and dust off of anything around or above the backside of the compressor. This was my biggest headache for this process. My dumb self kept bumping a brake line or bumping something else and knocking visible dirt onto the gasket locations. It's not fun to swab these with a typical q-tip and rinsing with alcohol when things get messy.


But it IS possible . It has now officially been done on a V8 explorer.

We'll see if it all holds vacuum in the morning.

 

[donalds]

Thanks for the update

 

[allmyEXes]

Maybe a little more alcohol?

 

[fastpakr]

I'm curious - is it really easier to do it that way vs lifting out the drivers side bracket assembly and changing the o-rings off the truck? It's definitely useful info, don't get me wrong!

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent work on the AC @donalds super thorough.

I haven't worked on my vehicle's AC in years, my latest 98 just quit(compressor), so it needs freon at the least. I have replaced the o-rings on most of my older cars shortly after buying them, and that has helped a ton to not have future leaks etc.

BTW, another step you can take for any system that has the quick connections(where the o-rings are and need replacing); those get leaks due to the vibration. The simple steel clamps around them do very little. I throw those away, after finding and replacing them with rigid aftermarket clamps. The early kind were aluminum, I used those on my first Crown Vic, and it lasted until over 300k miles.

The later clamps are a tough black plastic, and they cost about $15 apiece about 15-20 years ago. I highly recommend those if you can find them. Those clamps hold the connections rigid, so the o-rings will last a lot longer. They take a few minutes to install, and there is a different size for each sized connection, so several possible sizes.

 

[fastpakr]

Excellent work on the AC @donalds super thorough.

I haven't worked on my vehicle's AC in years, my latest 98 just quit(compressor), so it needs freon at the least. I have replaced the o-rings on most of my older cars shortly after buying them, and that has helped a ton to not have future leaks etc.

BTW, another step you can take for any system that has the quick connections(where the o-rings are and need replacing); those get leaks due to the vibration. The simple steel clamps around them do very little. I throw those away, after finding and replacing them with rigid aftermarket clamps. The early kind were aluminum, I used those on my first Crown Vic, and it lasted until over 300k miles.

The later clamps are a tough black plastic, and they cost about $15 apiece about 15-20 years ago. I highly recommend those if you can find them. Those clamps hold the connections rigid, so the o-rings will last a lot longer. They take a few minutes to install, and there is a different size for each sized connection, so several possible sizes.

Are you talking about something like these?

Four Seasons 16866 Four Seasons Air Conditioning Clamp Fittings | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Four Seasons Air Conditioning Clamp Fittings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Hose Clamps at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes exactly. The old kind were two pieces and had two bolts to hold them together. That looks like a new design that would be much easier to install, and likely still hold as well.


Here's one on Amazon that is a different part number, a different size. But the picture is the two piece type I am familiar with. The listings I see don't tell you what size they are, which is very important for each vehicle. Most older Fords had 3-4 of those connections, and mine needed three different sized clamps.
Amazon product ASIN B000CSXN0O

 

[donalds]

Thanks guys !

 

[Muleman36]

I'm curious - is it really easier to do it that way vs lifting out the drivers side bracket assembly and changing the o-rings off the truck? It's definitely useful info, don't get me wrong!

Knowing what all is involved now, I would definitely go without pulling the brackets and everything else above. The only frustration in getting it apart was not having a 13mm swivel head ratcheting wrench for the bolt that holds the heat shield on that is closest to the engine.

The rest was very straightforward.

Once all was unbolted, I simply wedged the box end of a combination wrench between the block and the compressor and used tweezers to pull the old and install the new o-rings.

Lighting was difficult, but I obviously didn't plan ahead when I started pulling it apart(or I would have had a much easier time keeping things clean).

 

[Pete Deering]

Dirty
Clean everything and then clean it again...in the pictures of the clean parts you see a little pag oil with dye in it that's because we did not flush them yet
We left the original o rings on until we reinstalled the lines
This is to be sure that we have the o rings in the right places
After you install your parts be sure to blow out the lines with air he'll I blew out everything two or three times
View attachment 328348

View attachment 328346

Old Orifice tubeView attachment 328349

The orifice shows the compressor was failing.