All Metal Radiator

[Justin J]

Has anyone tried this kind of radiator? Any comments are appreciated!

Ebay
3ROW All Aluminum Radiator For 2006-2010 Ford Explorer 4.0L 4.6L HPR906-3R11

 

[Motorhogman]

Haven't tried one. Don't know of anyone that has. What's the price on that gem ? The aluminum core plastic tank radiators work very well. They are good for 20 years with regular fluid changes and cleaning the outside of the core. Are you trying to solve a problem ?

 

[94Eddie]

Haven't tried one. Don't know of anyone that has. What's the price on that gem ? The aluminum core plastic tank radiators work very well. They are good for 20 years with regular fluid changes and cleaning the outside of the core. Are you trying to solve a problem ?

My theory on the OEM radiators failing is it is due to them running at 20 psi. I recommend using a 16 psi cap since there appears to be no change in cooling performance from doing so. I and many others here are doing this. So far after a year with the 16 psi cap I haven't seen the temperature increase even a needle's width on the cluster gauge. Even in 100+ degree temperatures with the AC running on maximum.

 

[Motorhogman]

Didn't realize they were running 20 psi these days. The purpose of the pressure is to increase the boiling point of the fluid. 16# cap 50 /50 mix of anti freeze and water will have a boiling point of around 250 degrees.

 

[94Eddie]

I am not sure why Ford has the pressure so high. From a practical use aspect there appears to be no reason to do so. No one here using the 16 psi cap has ever reported an issue with doing so.

 

[Motorhogman]

I am not sure why Ford has the pressure so high. From a practical use aspect there appears to be no reason to do so. No one here using the 16 psi cap has ever reported an issue with doing so.

My OEM cap is 16#

 

[Justin J]

Haven't tried one. Don't know of anyone that has. What's the price on that gem ? The aluminum core plastic tank radiators work very well. They are good for 20 years with regular fluid changes and cleaning the outside of the core. Are you trying to solve a problem ?

20 years? Unbelievable!


After installing a new thermostat housing, I find mine is leaking around the seal where the upper plastic cover meets the core. I think the rubber seal has shrunk.

 

[Justin J]

My theory on the OEM radiators failing is it is due to them running at 20 psi. I recommend using a 16 psi cap since there appears to be no change in cooling performance from doing so. I and many others here are doing this. So far after a year with the 16 psi cap I haven't seen the temperature increase even a needle's width on the cluster gauge. Even in 100+ degree temperatures with the AC running on maximum.

Yeah, I have switched to use a 16PSI cap.

 

[Motorhogman]

20 years? Unbelievable!


After installing a new thermostat housing, I find mine is leaking around the seal where the upper plastic cover meets the core. I think the rubber seal has shrunk.

The tanks can get a hair line crack where they are crimped to the header. Very hard to see. They usually only leak when hot with pressure. More likely that than the gasket itself. Very common on all plastic tank radiators not just Ford. Yes 20 years is easily possible with proper maintenance. I used to own a radiator shop and can tell you the the amount of bugs and debris found stuck between the fins and tubes can be crazy. Nobody ever thinks about cleaning the radiator, well maybe off road mudder guys do. With today's prices replacing tanks, gaskets and labor.. You might as well start doing a search for a complete unit. I replaced mine, 2000 Sport about a year ago. I was going to replace both tanks and gaskets until I got prices on parts plus shipping.. I have the tools to do it myself. It wasn't worth it. Found a brand new OEM unit on line for $120.00 Free shipping.

 

[Mbrooks420]

20 years? Unbelievable!


After installing a new thermostat housing, I find mine is leaking around the seal where the upper plastic cover meets the core. I think the rubber seal has shrunk.

25 years on mine without issue.

 

[Justin J]

25 years on mine without issue.

OEM?

 

[Justin J]

The tanks can get a hair line crack where they are crimped to the header. Very hard to see. They usually only leak when hot with pressure. More likely that than the gasket itself. Very common on all plastic tank radiators not just Ford. Yes 20 years is easily possible with proper maintenance. I used to own a radiator shop and can tell you the the amount of bugs and debris found stuck between the fins and tubes can be crazy. Nobody ever thinks about cleaning the radiator, well maybe off road mudder guys do. With today's prices replacing tanks, gaskets and labor.. You might as well start doing a search for a complete unit. I replaced mine, 2000 Sport about a year ago. I was going to replace both tanks and gaskets until I got prices on parts plus shipping.. I have the tools to do it myself. It wasn't worth it. Found a brand new OEM unit on line for $120.00 Free shipping.

I plan to cramp down the metal clamps a little more to see if it works. The core itself looks clean and healthy!

 

[Mbrooks420]

OEM?

Yes.

 

[Motorhogman]

I plan to cramp down the metal clamps a little more to see if it works. The core itself looks clean and healthy!

Go easy. The tool for crimping is designed to crimp to a spec. Kind of like using a torque wrench on a nut or bolt. The tool will only allow you to crimp the header tab so far. To far will break the tank or even the aluminum tab.

 

[Pete Deering]

Has anyone tried this kind of radiator? Any comments are appreciated!

Ebay
3ROW All Aluminum Radiator For 2006-2010 Ford Explorer 4.0L 4.6L HPR906-3R11

View attachment 437295

They said, the aluminum radiator is more efficient. For One of my other cars, a custom all aluminum radiator is the only thing available. It 3/4 the size of the orignal, No one has a problem with it in the club. Because of space saver size, it allow of a intercooler too be added. Also the coolant over flow bottle is over available in aluminium for that model.
The price is 3x more. Coolant bottle is 60-80 dollars

 

[Motorhogman]

They said, the aluminum radiator is more efficient. For One of my other cars, a custom all aluminum radiator is the only thing available. It 3/4 the size of the orignal, No one has a problem with it in the club. Because of space saver size, it allow of a intercooler too be added. Also the coolant over flow bottle is over available in aluminium for that model.
The price is 3x more. Coolant bottle is 60-80 dollars

They are typically used in high performance applications. Doubt it would be needed in any stock vehicle. Couple of f other things to consider, how many FPI, are the fins louvered, how many rows of tubes...

 

[Pete Deering]

They are typically used in high performance applications. Doubt it would be needed in any stock vehicle. Couple of f other things to consider, how many FPI, are the fins louvered, how many rows of tubes...

What do you use, when a radiator is not available for your car? And those aluminium radiator are available as a replacement. The car has a turbo.

 

[Justin J]

They are typically used in high performance applications. Doubt it would be needed in any stock vehicle. Couple of f other things to consider, how many FPI, are the fins louvered, how many rows of tubes...

The main reason I am looking for an all-metal one is, to avoid the plastic tanks. The price I linked above is even lower than that of plastic-aluminum one.

 

[Josh P]

I've had the all aluminum units fail in the same typical spots the plastic ones do. I've had the all metal ones fail in 6 months and the plastic last 15 years.

 

[Bazz270]

I am running for 4 years on OEM plastic tank radiator and oem 20psi cap for approx 70000 miles with no issues.