Alternator wiring upgrade?

[aldive]

I have never done alternator wiring upgrades so please excuse with my ignorance.

I want to upgrade the wiring on my alternator ( it’s a 130 AMP model now but a 200 AMP is in the immediate future ). What size wire do you guys recommend to run from the B+ alternator terminal to the battery and from the battery to the frame and from the frame to the motor ( I know that all 3 need to be the same size )?

I have seen commercial kits ( http://www.pa-performance.com/display.asp?sku=65 ) that use 4 gauge wire but have also seen charts ( http://www.alternatorparts.com/wire_size_chart.htm ) that show I might need 2 gauge wire.

Help me decide, please.

 

[aldive]

bump

 

[rookieshooter]

Al see if this will help you. I'm going to run a 200 amp also and may buy it thru these people. They have a write up on it and some nice pics with and increased wire size. Hope it helps. I like the end results with the amp draw with accesories on.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2004/07/6GAlternator/index.shtml

Just noticed you have similar site, oh well, but still informative. I'm watching this also for ideas. Nice post.

 

[yyc_tbird_sc]

I've done this on a few vehicles now. An '89 Tbird SC, an '88 Mustang GT, and my '92 X. Go to a local welding supply shop and pick up a bunch of 4 gauge wire (2 gauge if you really want to go big), and some decent ends for the cables. Solder the ends onto the cables and seal them using some good heat shrink. If you want a good reference as to how long of cables you're going to need, pull the wiring out of your x ahead of time and just match it all up and then maybe add an inch or two if you think you'll need it.

I use 2 gauge for the ground (batt to frame, and frame to block) as well as the main power feed to the solenoid. I use a 4 gauge for the alternator. The mustang was the only exception to this as we used 0 gauge for the power and grounds and 2 gauge for the alternator (this thing was has a massive stereo and air bag system).

 

[410Fortune]

Aldive, you can build the harness yourself with the single wire charging style alternators it is really simple.

I actually modified the 96 5.0L alternator harness to work with my BII. You see my BII has a alternator feed that goes to the under dash fuse panel as well as the feed that goes to the starter solenoid (where it connects to the bat + wires)

Don't forget to also upgrade the wire from the solenoid to the battery.
I think I am using 4 gage wire, two of them from my alternator.

I have a 2 gage wire on the rear of the BII connecting the frame to the body back there (this eliminated all stero noise I used to have because my amp is in the rear), there is a 4 gage from the - battery to the engine. The battery - cables are also 4 gage and there are 2 leads. One to the radiator support and one to the frame. there are also two 8 gage wires that connect the PCM (ground distribution for sensors, etc) to the - battery terminal.

Your truck should be the similar.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto Al, have the cables made locally by a welding supply shop. Surely you can call and find one which can make battery cables for you. Note that the sites mentioned do not replace any wires, keep the stock wiring intact.

"THESE KITS ARE NOT INTENDED TO REPLACE THE OEM WIRE – but are large enough to work without the stock wire in race / kit applications where there is no other wiring to upgrade."

I have no super stereo planned, just a small 4 channel amp, and a 30 amp air compressor. So my new 170 amp alternator will be fine for me, at $155 shipped. My battery power cable was cut(rollover procedure), so I have a new 0 gauge power cable, shown below. I will likewise add a new power cable from my alternator to a solenid that will power my compressor.
Do upgrade your ground wires equally well. Good luck,

 

[410Fortune]

I can make that sucker myself
Again I have found West Marine to have an excellent selection and pricing on stranded wire of all sizes. High quality marine grade terminals, etc. Radio shack and the like no longer stock this stuff and the stereo shops charge way too much for it. Most hardware places do not carry automotive stranded wire.

A pencil torch and solder is all you need
Most of the terminal ends I use come from the junk yard as well = CHEAP

 

[CDW6212R]

I like the heavy duty ends that my Royal Brass and Hose carry's. They are crushed on permanently, and the welding cable is very good for all uses. The stereo noise supression is another topic.

 

[rookieshooter]

I like also the way you guys mentioned about the ground wires. I was looking on one of the Honda sites that caters to making more HP on those high reving 4 bangers and they said the more grounding wires the better. Which I added several more 4 ga. wires to my sons Integra. I would assume that it would be the same for any vehical?

Also on that site that I posted it showed a 4 ga. wire that had an inline fuse between the alt. and starter cel. Should this be spliced in or would the stock fuses suffice?

 

[rookieshooter]

I'm going #2 gauge like the Canadian man said. Since I just found out that I have 25 feet of it in the basement. I did not know what gauge it was untill about 10 min. ago when someone answered me on another site. And also I need some grounding wire also.

 

[expo5.0]

when you use the charts keep in mind that the "200 amp alternator" is going to be making more like 70-120 amps 98% of the time.

4 gauge would be more than fine.

good car audio branded wire has many finer strands that are less oxidized in the manufacturing process than the stuff at the welding places. I bet my 4 gauge mobile spec pro ice series will "flow" e- about as well as their 2 gauge.

also, you can buy compression fit reusable ends from companies like pro ice that are all gold plated and titanium etc. which not only allow you to make the ends yourself etc., but will equal or possibly beat the connection the welding stuff will give you.

oh yeah, and the audio cable is much more flexible and easier to run where you want it.

if you don't mind spending a couple extra bucks i'd use it.





what brand alt. are you planning on running? I have a lot to say these days about the various alts available for our trucks (and a mr. alt with a fresh refurb for sale)

 

[CDW6212R]

That wouldn't be the alternator that A.J. had, which didn't put out at low RPM? The magic with alternators is how much power they make at normal low RPM. Regards,